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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 10:21 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
First race of the season last night, 19C, sunny, NW wind 9 knots gusting 12.
New crew, and great to be back on the water.

On the way out to the start line, the new crew moves from the tramp up to the wing and I hear 'clunk' - I look down at the port rear wing leg.
The bottom of the leg (where it attaches to the rear crossbar) and the casting have separated, as the leg has pulled itself out of the rivets attaching the leg to the casting. Did not stop us racing.

This morning, I made phone calls to various Hobie dealers, however I suspect that "6811.1001" aft leg left is no longer in production, is no longer stocked, and I should look at a repair. No photos yet.

1. Anyone got any 'spare' legs lying around? Old, new, doesn't matter. I live in Ottawa, Ontario, Canada.
2. Thoughts on repair - my plan is to have a MIG expert weld a 1" wide strip of 1/8" Aluminum around the bottom of the leg, (an exterior sleeve) then re-drill the holes and re-rivet.

The good news is that in the 1st race, we came 1st....we were the only ones racing! Ha, ha.
Races #2 and #3, we were beaten over the line by the Inter 20, the Capricorn C2, Tornado and I-14:,we'll see what the handicap results are.

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 11:56 am 
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I would think you could just drill some new holes between the old holes and re-rivet the casting back on.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 12:15 pm 
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
TY for the quick response.
The bottom end of the leg is not 100% solid anymore. Dang!

I will try and email you some pictures.....on my way to the S Club.

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 5:50 pm 
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Location: Buffalo, NY
Some pictures would help, but my initial thought was the same as srm, to just drill new river holes 45 degrees off of the ones that pulled out. Aside from that, I’m not quite following what you mean that the bottom of the leg isn’t quite solid anymore.


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'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 3:38 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
The bottom of the tube is blown out and there really isn’t enough meat left to add new rivets.

Seems like a lot of unnecessary work to have someone custom fab a strip of aluminum to bend around the bottom of the tube. I would just source a piece of seamless aluminum tube with an ID that closely matches the OD of the existing tube and cut it to length for an external sleeve. It could either be welded or possibly just riveted in place.

sm


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 4:27 am 
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Thank you SRM, I'll go for the sleeve approach.
Good winds....

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Fri May 25, 2018 7:16 am 
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Location: Buffalo, NY
After seeing the pictures, I think srm's approach is probably best. I bought a piece of 6061 aluminum tube on mcmaster-carr to replace the "strut" on one of my wing legs, and I imagine you should be able to find a piece that will fit over the OD of the leg and have it welded to the leg, then get some longer rivets to re-attach the cap.

I haven't yet had it welded to the leg, so I can't give feedback on that, but as I understand it the legs were originally 6061 aluminum, and only the seat itself is tempered/heat treated. Note that to weld the sleeve to the leg, the welder will need to grind off the anodization in the immediate area of the weld. You'll probably just have to paint the weld & sleeve afterwards, to protect it from corrosion. You'll also want to make sure the welder is experienced in welding aluminum, as aluminum welding is considerably more challenging than steel.


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 5:00 am 
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Or, like I mentioned, you may be able to skip the welding all together and just rivet the sleeve on. Make the sleeve 3” long or so. Use 4 rivets above the old rivets to connect the sleeve to the original tube. Then 4 rivets to connect the original tube/sleeve/end cap. Possibly coat the inside of the sleeve with epoxy to take up any slop between tube and sleeve. It also depends on how much curvature there is at the end of the wing tube since that will limit the length of your sleeve.

sm


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 6:05 am 
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
TY
Now the trick is to find a short piece of tubing......

Pondering over this, my theory is that because I store the boat outside in winter, leaving the wings on in the vertical position, and even though I cover the entire boat - wings and all - with a large tarp, somehow there was water in the wing tube. Perhaps it was during the Fall Regatta when so many of us capsized in a 40 degree wind shift.....then in the cold of a Canadian winter, the freeze/thaw cycle took over, and that may have contributed to the problem.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Sat May 26, 2018 11:01 am 
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Location: Brooklyn, NY
If you can find a good TIG welder in your area its a cheap and quick repair. After snapping a rear leg on my wings, I went looking for a local guy who made fishing towers for boats. He had to grind the paint off but then was able to weld on a sleeve and it's arguably stronger now then ever!
Also recommend added the rear struts to the legs once you get it fixed.
Good luck!

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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 4:37 am 
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Joined: Wed Aug 12, 2009 5:25 pm
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Location: New Port Richey Fl.
I have an aft starboard leg in perfect shape no corrosion or bends you could swap out the end x-bar fitting with yours to make it a port leg. I have it listed on beachcats for $250 I'll let it go for $200

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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 4:55 am 
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Thank you, I knew someone out there had one.

Even at US$200, with the Forex running at 1.30, plus Customs and Duty, I'll take a rain check, and wait for the quote on a sleeve or welding job.
I may end up PM'ing you about other parts.....

Good winds

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Sun May 27, 2018 5:45 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
John Lunn wrote:
TY
Now the trick is to find a short piece of tubing......


http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=947&step=2&top_cat=60

sm


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 12:01 pm 
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Location: Buffalo, NY
I bought the aluminum for my strut from mcmaster-carr: https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-alum ... g/=1d1zy4k

I didn't realize it at the time, but apparently they also sell annodized aluminum tubes (as does online metals). I also didn't realize (or didn't remember) that it's T6 temper (though welding would probably remove most of the tempered strength around the weld). I believe the leg is 2" OD, but I'd double check that. It looks like online metals might be a bit cheaper than mcmaster-carr.


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 10:17 am 
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There's a set of SX wings on the beachcats for $350. Buy them and you'll have three spares.


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