Questions on mast base setup

I ran across an H18 last weekend for $500. I've wanted a cat for over 30 years, so I bought it. Overall, it's in pretty good shape, no soft spots, but there is some oxidation on hulls. I got it home only to find out about the hull problem on the 1984 and similar years, but I see no cracks anywhere - this one is 1984 vintage - but it doesn't have the reinforcement plates. I spent a few hours buffing and waxing the hulls, so the boat looks pretty decent. Sails were stored indoors, so they are both crisp. It has a vinyl tramp, though (light blue), so I'm concerned about it being hot on a sunny day. I knew it needed a new mast base (p/n 60650011) when I bought the boat, and I have to say this piece seems easy to break, so maybe I need a spare? I have a few questions about the mast base setup. I've looked for documents and videos for some time, but I struck out.

1) Is this cast mast base normally rough on the inside? I purchased one from an online dealer that claimed it was a Hobie original, but it seems strange this would be so rough if it's intended to rotate. Also, it was not in Hobie packaging. Should I buff out the inside?
2) How exactly does the 60650011 connect to the other half of the mast base (p/n 60641031)? I purchased a pack of clevis pins, but there isn't one the correct length to attach the two mast base plate halves together. The other thing is that a long clevis pin did show up with a hole through it, but unless something is wrapped around the mast, it will fall out. I can't find details on how to rig this up.
3) I also purchased a mast bearing with disk (item no. 1132). The hump on the new one is quite a bit taller than the one I took off. I guess it's the right one. It came with a teflon washer. Where the heck does the teflon washer go? The old bearing I took off didn't have a teflon washer, and if I put the teflon washer under the new bearing, the mast base won't quite make it to level - maybe 5 degrees or so off. Also, with the teflon washer on, the bearing won't spin. I don't see any place else it can go.

One more question... Should I remove the wing seats since the hulls don't have the reinforcement plates? Thanks for any information.

Remove the wing seats and send to me!

I will trade you for reinforcement plates...

The part you’re referring to, I believe, is the mast base “hinge.” The hinge is susceptible to breaking if you allow the mast to drift off to the side when raising or lowering it. I’ve sailed H18’s for over 30 years and never broken one (knock on wood), so I’m not sure you need to carry a spare, but I guess if you have a hard time dealing with raising and lowering the mast, it might not be a bad idea.

The hinge attaches to the mast base (on the bottom of the mast) with a standard clevis pin and split ring. Best to use a pin that’s just long enough to reach through the base and insert the split ring (sorry, I don’t know the length).

The inside of the hinge casting does not need to be smooth. The hinge does not rotate on the mast step (the part attached to the crossbar). The mast bearing (plastic hemisphere) that screws onto the mast step casting (part riveted to the front crossbar) is what rotates. The bearings wear down over time which is probably why the new one is taller. I would use the teflon washer if possible. It doesn’t matter if you can’t spin the bearing by hand, the pressure from the mast will force it to spin and it will also break in over time. Just make sure the holes in the mast step and the mast hinge line up so you can insert and remove the step pin. Also, use loctite on the threads of the mast bearing screw.

sm

Hi and welcome to the Hobie 18 Fleet.
Please check out my boats own Facebook page (link below) for many albums of photos with boat set up and boat rigging ideas. There is one specific album for raising the mast.
Our website also has some great Hobie info on it.

Use the Teflon washer under the dome. The small bolt should NOT screw down far enough to stop the dome from spinning. Just screw it in enough to retain the washer and dome and then let Loctite hold the bolt in position and refrain it from undoing.

_________________
John Forbes
Hobie 18 Reimagined
Sail # 490
Boat name: 18@heart
http://www.hobie18.fun
https://www.facebook.com/Hobie18catamaran/

Thanks for the responses. tedcool, you convinced me to keep the wing seats - this is something I found particularly attractive when I purchased it, but I read the extra stress from these crack the hulls. I'll track down some plates.

Great website and Facebook page. I'll be checking that out tonight.

Hello and welcome! As others have said, the washer goes under the mast bearing, and the new bearing can/will be taller than an old worn one. The washer helps eliminate squeak as the mast rotates, which was a MAJOR annoyance on my boat before I replaced mine (funny how something so small and insignificant can get to be so irritating!) Whenever I've replaced my mast bearing, the bearing raises the mast almost to the point that I can't get the mast step pin in, but after a few times out it usually wears in to a point that it's no longer an issue.

The light blue tramp never really gets hot in the sun, especially when it's getting splashed with water every now and then.

Reinforcement plates are cheap and easy to come by, and well worth installing. The wings are highly sought after, so I'd keep them unless you're absolutely sure you'll never use them!

This may help with your setup questions: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dl7kZOQ5WQk

_________________
Mike

'79 H18 standard 'Rocketman II' sail #14921 RIP
'78 H18 (unnamed) sail #14921
'08 H16 sail #114312
'97 H21SC sail #238

Thanks, Sabres. I've not raised the mast yet, but my concern was breaking the cast base because I was concerned I'd need to exert excessive force to get the pin in. The lines will show up this week, so I'm hoping to take her out next weekend.

I'll track down the reinforcing plates asap.

Take care.

In place of the mast step pin, you can use a screwdriver with a slightly smaller shaft diameter than the pin. The smaller diameter will make it easier to install if the holes in the mast base/step are not perfectly aligned and the handle give you something to grab onto- making it easier to remove after the mast is up.

There was a post not too long ago from someone looking to get the reinforcement plates and who could not source them from their dealer because Hobie has no more in stock. So I agree that they are well worth installing if you can get your hands on them, but could be hard to find. Used ones show up occasionally on ebay.

sm

Thanks, srm. I have plenty of screwdrivers I can use. I was just trying to find the reinforcement plates, but was striking out because there are no more in stock as you stated. I ran across a post that claimed some company in Australia has them, but I've not found out who this is. I'll watch eBay. I had hoped to take this cat to Corpus Chrisi in a few weeks and sail with my brother, but I'm concerned about beating up the hulls before I can get them fixed. So far, no cracks by the cross bars that I can see.

Also, I've looked all around the seam externally and videoed the inside of the hulls. There is nothing red, so is there any chance this isn't a red line version? The cat is 1984 according to the title. What I've seen as red in various pictures appears black on my hull. Definitely not red, though. I just looked up when the boat was made, and according to the serial number (ends with M84F), I believe it was made January 1984.

Redline construction was introduced in 1984, so some were and some were not. I would say if it hasn’t cracked in 35 years and is still solid, then you’re probably ok. You can also add reinforcement patches inside the hulls even if you can’t source the stainless plates. But again, if no cracks by now, my guess is it’s ok.

https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=49780&hilit=Reinforcement

sm