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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 6:12 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 19, 2007 9:49 pm
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Location: Corpus Christi, TX
I've just purchased a new trampoline for my H18 Magnum, and am wondering if anyone has any tips, suggestions, and/or step-by-step instructions on lacing you can pass on to me. I bought the boat three months ago and it came with a tool that looks like a "T" that the previous owner said was for tightening the lacing (he used it to replace and re-lace the wing mesh), but I cannot figure out how to use it! How tight should the tramp be -- as tight as I can make it?

Secondly, the access port to thread the rear part of the trampoline into the starboard side of the rear crossbar is covered completely by the metal wing anchor plate. To remove it I have to drill out the metal rivots affixing the plate to the crossbar. The Hobie dealer tells me that it's very easy to do this and then to use a rivot gun to re-secure the anchor plate. Does anyone have firsthand experience with rivots and rivot guns? Is the fix as straightforward as the Hobie dealer indicates?

Thanks!

Indy


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 8:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1184
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
The drilling out is easy, if you are a metal worker!

Remember, these rivets are not WalMart aluminum specials, they are Monel, a stainless steel equivalent. They are tough, and you may want to search the Forum re drilling out the old ones. It is do-able if you take your time, have good drill bits, and work patiently. Be careful, as you do NOT want to drill out or expand the hole that the rivet sits in.

Rivetting - borrow an air powered rivet gun. Or rent one. The $10 hand rivet gun is a toy, you need something professional. Some folks on this Forum (do a search) have a hand powered one that you use a wrench on. That's the sort of power you need to 'set' those tough rivets.

You will also need to unbolt the 'stud', the bolt thing that exits the slot of the cross bar, that is threaded into a slug, which sits inside that slot.

You may also need to trim the short piece of tramp.

The tool - use it to tighten up the tramp line from grommet to grommet, or, like many others on the Forum, use Vice Grips.

good luck

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2007 9:34 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2007 1:05 am
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Location: Gilbert, AZ
Well I can't say I have a lot of experience since I've only replaced one tramp but some of this might help.

I bought a mesh tramp from that guy off eBay, then I bought rope in the lengths specified on a list I found on Beachcats or something. That was my first mistake! Use longer rope than what is called for and trim the excess. My tramp wasn't quite right, having too much of a gap in the middle. I cranked on it and ended up pulling one of the grommets out. It was well made enough that it still held for years but I shouldn't have tried to force it when the cut was off.

Glad you mentioned the air rivet gun, I'm going to order this one:
http://www.randys-racemart.com/airrivetgun.html


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 4:36 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
In my experience, it's best to tighten the tramp evenly and gradually. If you start pulling as hard as you can right away while lacing it up, you can pull out a grommet (at least that's what happend to me). It's best to lace it up loosely (center and rear), then pull it snug, and finally pull it tight. It seems to help distribute the load between the grommets better this way.

The "T" handle is a tramp tightening wrench. It probably forms a slot in the bottom. Place the tramp line between the slot, twist the wrench to tighten the line, and the lock the line (with vice grips), then move to the next position.

Regarding drilling out rivets. Basically what you want to do is get an over-sized drill bit to drill the head off the rivet (only the head). Then use a hammer and punch to push the rivet shank into the crossbar. This way you don't risk oversizing the hole.

sm


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 6:13 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 02, 2003 7:35 pm
Posts: 1369
Location: 315 N. Hwy 79 Panama City Beach, FL 32413 850-235-2281
Indy wrote:
How tight should the tramp be -- as tight as I can make it?
Indy


This depends on if it's a Hobie tramp or and after market. We stop installing after market tramps customers bring in because something always goes wrong. I've never pulled a grommet out of a new Hobie tramp.

as to installing it:
lace the tramp snug on the 1st pass, then go back and really crank down on it. You want it to be very tight. The "t" handle you have is a tramp tightening tool, they work ok I find a good pair of gloves work just as well and a whole lot easier!

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 11:51 am 
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Joined: Wed Jul 06, 2005 2:15 pm
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Location: Oakland, CA
All the above with the addition of re-tightening the lacing after the lacing is wet (unless you use nylon rope). You will need to periodically re-tighten the lacing as it stretches with use.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 10:30 am 
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Location: Santa Cruz
Hey Sub. That $59 rivet gun might cause you some trouble. I had one like it for a while and it doesn't have the fuerte needed to pop SS rivets. If you read the fine print it says 3/16" STEEL rivets. A different beast compared to stainless. I would recommend spending the $50 on a two handled manual rivet gun. I don't have photos of what I'm talking about, but mine has 2 18" handles and cost around $50. I've had it in professional service for 3 years now. It will pop up to 1/4" stainless rivets with no problems.

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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2007 10:57 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 10, 2007 1:05 am
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Location: Gilbert, AZ
Oh yeah? Hmmm well that sucks. I have one of those two-handled jobbers from Harbor Freight (direct from China!) that does the job on the stainless ones. It was only $10. I rarely rivet anything but only use the stainless on the Hobie. Thanks for the heads up though!
I just love air tools. LOL


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 3:42 am 
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Joined: Tue Apr 21, 2015 3:37 am
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I have a Hobie 18 and was wondering what I should buy.
Vinyl or mesh? 2 piece or 3 piece? What's a good brand?

The mesh drains water better but the vinyl keeps a lot of the splash down. The one piece looks good and will keep ropes in the boat, but when I capsize I stick my hands through the gap to get the jib sheet around the outside.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 21, 2015 9:54 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
It's hard to beat a Hobie brand tramp. If you cover them when not in use, you can easily get 20 years out of them.

You pretty much nailed the pros & cons of each type. Vinyl is drier, mesh drains water more easily. My preference on the H18 is vinyl. I like not being sprayed by each wave that passes under the boat.

As far as one-piece tramps go, Hobie only makes a 3 piece tramp for the 18. The advantage of a 3 piece tramp is you can make it really tight if you want, so less sagging and overall a tighter boat. No matter how many pieces your tramp is, the lines will always find a way to fall off the boat - that's what crew are for!

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 22, 2017 9:22 pm 
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Joined: Sat Mar 20, 2004 4:33 am
Posts: 85
Location: South Australia
srm wrote:
No matter how many pieces your tramp is, the lines will always find a way to fall off the boat - that's what crew are for!


Not if you shorten it (mainsheet) to the minimum requirement. I NEVER lose mine and sail SOLO. :wink:
Extend the traveller and leave yourself enough rope to hold from the trapeze; cut off the excess. J


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