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PostPosted: Sun Jul 31, 2016 6:58 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 2:21 pm
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Location: Winston Salem, NC
A long time ago I started using strips of rubber that were intended for safety in bathroom tubs. It came with adhesive backing and was designed for wet environments. It was easy to install and lasted a long time. To install, I just cleaned the rails with alcohol first and then applied the strips. I haven't seen it in stores lately but did find it on an internet search. The strips were about 1 1/2" wide and worked very well with rubber wading shoes.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 7:19 am 
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Quote:
I stopped using the rear grommet because the tiller would be on the bungee when sitting forward on the boat.


Yes, I can see this getting quite annoying. How many feet/inches is the grommet behind the shroud? I'm glad to see the newer tramps incorporating this solution. My boat is a 2004, so it doesn't have those grommets. If I install them myself, I'll probably put my grommets further forward. I don't mind the trapeze being at the same place every time on the tramp, other catamarans (specifically F18s) are like that anyways.

Quote:
Contact cement works like this - apply to both surfaces and wait for it to dry.

Oops! Haha. Yes, I was clamping it because I didn't know I had to wait for it to dry. I was assuming it's just glue on steroids, so I smacked the two parts together right after liberal application of the contact cement. So, do you let it completely dry then smack the two parts together, or do you let it dry like half way then do it? How long do you typically let it dry for?

-Evan


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 8:00 am 
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Location: Detroit, MI
BboySlug wrote:
How many feet/inches is the grommet behind the shroud?
It's only a couple of inches, but when I'm sailing upwind in light air (the only time I'm in the front corner - the crew would be on the leeward side), I rest the tiller against the shroud and grip it with my aft hand (outside the shroud) and use my thumb against the shroud to make delicate movements on the tiller. Moving the tiller a lot in light air is slow.

BboySlug wrote:
So, do you let it completely dry then smack the two parts together, or do you let it dry like half way then do it? How long do you typically let it dry for?
You let it dry until it's just a bit tacky to the touch - I think the directions say about 15 minutes, but it depends on the temperature and how thick you spread it.

Once it's dry on both surfaces, you only get one chance to get the alignment right! It sticks instantly, so I always start at one corner then slowly unroll the material following the edge of the sidebar. Once the upper edge is completely done, then you can smooth down the rest, starting in the middle of the sidebar and working to the ends. That will minimize bubbles and wrinkles.


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 07, 2016 8:12 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 2:21 pm
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Location: Winston Salem, NC
How did an advertising link get into the text of my post? The post was duplicated above with an insertion about carpet cleaning. I suggest it get removed from the forum.

I used the rubber strips, intended for safety in a bathroom tub, for years on my side rails. They last a long time, are cheap to install, are not affected by the bungee cord and allow the wire to be slid along the rail without the restriction you would get going through grommets. I think we sometimes get too complicated trying to solve simple problems.

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PostPosted: Fri Mar 23, 2018 7:04 pm 
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:33 pm
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Location: Southern California
DavidBell47 -

I do like your setup. It is annoying when moving back and forth on the rail having a bungee line getting hung up under the tramp.

Also it gives you boat a nice clean look.

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1979 Hobie (sold)
1983 Hobie 16 Hawiian Sunset (sold)
1981 Hobie 16 Tequilla Sunrise - still own
2008 Hobie 16 (currently sailing the crap out of this boat)
1977 Super Sunfish
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John


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PostPosted: Sun May 06, 2018 2:09 pm 
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Going back to the original question. A friend and I split a "B" sheet of Hydro Turf. It's made for personal watercraft decking. We bought a "blemished" sheet with 3M backing. We cut it in four strips about 7 inches wide and long enough to cover the complete side rails. Started on the top of the rail close to the tramp and "rolled" it slowly down and around and under the side rail. Great stuff for traction and pretty durable. Two boats for about $80, so $40 each.

Here's a link for the pattern we bought:

https://www.hydroturf.com/sheets-closeo ... njpr0uqpj2

I can send pix if the site manager allows that.

Good Luck.

DK


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PostPosted: Thu May 17, 2018 8:06 pm 
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Location: Boulder, CO
I had carpet on my first Hobie. I thought that was great until I went with a dense foam with a square pattern in it. The guy who owned it before me put that on and it's held up better than carpet or rubber. It's more stiff and doesn't trap water. I found that rubber and carpet got soggy over time and began to peel up. The foam just breathes better.

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PostPosted: Fri May 18, 2018 8:51 am 
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Location: Clearwater, FL
It also depends on what type of waffle pattern you want pressed into your buns.

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Blue Prism
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PostPosted: Thu May 24, 2018 10:25 am 
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Location: Harsens Island, Michigan
I think I am going to try this...

Amazonhttps://www.amazon.com/Bathtub-Shower-Adhesive-Non-Slip-Yorwe/dp/B071X8KSDV/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1527182146&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=bathtub+non+slip&psc=1

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