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 Post subject: New to me '81 Hobie 16
PostPosted: Mon Sep 23, 2019 6:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2019 4:05 pm
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I recently picked up a 1981 Hobie 16 at a, presumably, bargain price. I have previously sailed sunfish, lazers, and various other 'wet bottom' boats (if I was on vacation and it was for rent, I sailed it), as well as full keel boats up to 36ft.

Hulls seem solid, spars and wire rigging serviceable, lines are OK, sails are pretty much done (mildewed, stained, and just plain worn out (main and jib are white with two tone blue stripes, if someone can date them?)), they're the first thing I will replace if it passes a test sail and the hulls prove solid.

So I rigged it up in the driveway, and I think I am ready to take it out for a check sail. I need to decide if/why I should fix her up for next year before I start replacing the sails, other worn out stuff and maybe painting the hulls, and the sailing season here has only weeks, if not days left .

I am looking at a forecast 7-10kts this Saturday. I'll be in the Hudson River at Kingston Point Beach (tidal with a +/- 2kt current depending on tide) and winds can be fickle depending on direction coming over the hills (hence the 'Hudson Valley'), they (the winds) also have a habit of just going away. I would assume this boat would move ok in light airs, and I'll stay up-current so I just have to get to the west bank and I can go with the flow back to my launch site.

Sound plan? (I really, really, really don't want to end up down current with no way back to the beach/truck/trailer.

Advice as to what to look for that may not be apparent to a newb? Other signs I got too good of a bargain?

TIA


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2019 8:41 am 
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Solid decks? https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=1156

Bottom not worn through? Maybe do a leak test first? https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=169

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2019 10:52 am 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 5:28 pm
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Location: Bristol, IN
Check the mast base, my mast step base was worn to the point that the stops would not engage. Make sure you put a new bearing "chip" in there if there is not one. Mine went without one, if foreign material gets in there, it eats away at the aluminum. I had to sand & polish to get mine back into shape.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2019 5:38 pm 
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Matt,

I knocked on the both hulls and decks extensively before purchase (owner was late showing up when I bought the boat, had a good 30 min), I heard nothing. But after your post I checked, and I do get about a 1/8" deflection on the port hull in the area ahead of the cross bar (I get a 1/16" on the starboard side and behind the crossbar on both sides). I'll keep an eye on it.

I'm a bit confused on the leak test (I do HVAC for a living, I get leak testing :).

Do the hulls have vents (other then when the drain plugs are removed)?

Can I just tip her forward and fill the hulls with water though the drain plugs and look for water leaks on the keels instead of blowing her up with air, soaping her up, and looking for bubbles?


SlowSL,

Mast step is on my list for replacement if hulls check out. It's a bit knurled over, but still has good contact with the mast base. Boat came with extra bearing discs.


I've checked tide and wind for Saturday, both are out of the south, wind at 9kts and high tide at about 2pm. Looks like I'll be headed against both to be able to float back if things goes south (OMG no! I need to go north :)


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 24, 2019 6:20 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 16, 2019 4:05 pm
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I am also looking for tips on rigging tension for a newb. I have her rigged with the shrouds at the top hole and the forestay at the fifth hole from the top (I'm sure things have stretched a bit, not sure which way). There is some play, the mast can rotate freely. Should the jib haylard be tighter than the forestay?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2019 8:45 am 
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Location: Oceanside, California
Exhaust from shop vac directed at the open drain hole will increase pressure inside the hull slightly, so any areas that leak would show bubbles when soapy water is applied.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 25, 2019 6:30 pm 
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mmiller wrote:
Exhaust from shop vac directed at the open drain hole will increase pressure inside the hull slightly, so any areas that leak would show bubbles when soapy water is applied.


This boat was sitting for a while, PO said 2 years (I'd agree if it was underground) and it was mold/moss covered (I've scrubbed w/ simple green the shiat out of it, it's looking much better). I think there may have been some bees/wasps making a home inside one of the hulls as there was a muddy buildup around the drain.

Can I fill the hulls with water, not 'full', but 50% or so (until it starts spilling back out of the drain), and give it a slosh around with it sitting on the trailer, then drain it out? (as well as checking for leaks in the keels), then roll it over, and fill it up again to check the hull to deck seam and sponsons?

I think the hull interior needs a rinse, are there bulkheads that would hinder this?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2019 7:46 am 
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Hi Pete,
I happen to also live in the Hudson river valley. Maybe we can sail sometime. I have an 87 16 in what sounds to be in slightly better condition. Also, do you by chance sail out of Chelsea Yacht Club?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 21, 2019 9:54 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Pete

Use Matt M's shop vac method, with 'light' pressure.

If you fill the hulls with water, how will they dry?
What will that do to the structure of the H16?
How much water will be absorbed by the fibreglass?
How much more will the boat weigh?

You don't want to even consider answering these questions.....

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