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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 8:09 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Sun Jul 24, 2016 12:30 pm
Posts: 10
I am a well experienced sailor and want to add some rake to my rig for speed, pointing... I am in the market for some new shrouds as well and thought that I might as well just purchase a pair of shrouds for a newer boat measuring 18' 11'', and then adding a chain plate on the forestay for some extra length up there to accommodate the shorter shrouds. Any problems with doing it this way? Any reasons not to add some mast rake? And are there any other adjustments or new parts I would need other than those? I have an '86 hobie 16. Thanks


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 24, 2022 3:26 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 7:21 pm
Posts: 904
Location: Thunder Bay,On
New 6:1 low profile main blocks
Newer jib with clew cut higher


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 25, 2022 10:07 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 15021
Location: Oceanside, California
Newer mast step casting and mast base. They have larger and better-matched rotation stops for maximum rake settings.

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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)


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PostPosted: Wed Jan 26, 2022 1:19 pm 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1182
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Consider converting to the Aussie jib halyard set up
and
the 6:1 power downhaul on the main.

Are you running with EPO rudders?
Every little bit helps.

I can't even get to my H16, its covered in snow and today the high is -20C.

keep safe

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2022 9:09 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 493
Location: Clearwater, FL
Not really sure what the benefit is to the more expensive Aussie jib halyard system vs the older 3:1 (downhaul block #1107000) jib halyard system.


Advantages of the older system:

1) with a lot shorter jib halyard, you can raise/lower the jib faster (which is very helpful when it is really windy and the jib is flogging).
2) with a jib halyard grip on the side of the mast, the jib's battens do not hang up on the halyard like they would on the Aussie system where the jib halyard comes down the front of the mast.
3) a lot less jib halyard to get tangled, coiled up and stored after the halyard is tied off.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 27, 2022 9:23 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1182
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
This has been well covered in earlier posts on this Forum.

The main advantage is that being 'central', the Aussie halyard does not induce a bend or a twist in the mast.
So port tack and starboard tack are even and predictable.

Yes, the halyard is longer and more persnickety, and with a bit of practice, it works really well.

We clip a Hobie bag (the little black ones) to the underneath of the tramp tightening lines, just behind the mast, and stow the excess halyard line there.
We clip another bag on top of the tramp for the main halyard, plus a larger bag for waterbottles.

With jib pocket protectors the strips of clear vinyl), we rarely have the jib hang up on the halyard.

Hope this helps.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2022 4:47 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 10:33 am
Posts: 686
Location: Clinton, Mississippi
Even with the suggestions above (including mmadge's recommended low-profile main blocks), if your mainsail is old/blown/stretched, you won't be able to rake back very far before going block to block on the mainsheet. If, in turn, you can't tighten/flatten the main all the way before going block to block, then you haven't really accomplished much.

Do the math on all these upgrades and you'll likely determine a newer boat is a better option.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Sat Jan 29, 2022 9:00 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 493
Location: Clearwater, FL
I agree with what Jerome (rattle 'n hum) just posted about old/blown/stretched main sails and mast rake. A little over a year ago, I replaced the 1987 Hobie Blue Prism sails on my 84H16 with new 2020 Hobie Tortola sails. Although I loved the color pattern on my older sails, they were stretched. Since the new sails were not stretched, I was then able to rake my mast back one lower hole on the shroud adjusters and still get block to block on my 6:1.

Several years ago, I started following Joe Bennett's (Total Joyrider) advise by sailing most of the time with my main sheet blocks tight and a flat mainsail. On close/beam/broad reaches, by traveling out a little more and then pulling your mainsheet blocks tight, you are able to have a flatter sail which gives you more power, speed and especially control. With a flat main sail and your main blocks tight, you can quickly depower some for a gust by feeding out just a little main sheet and have a major change in the shape of your main sail. With the traveler too far in and extra main sheet out, you can't depower your main sail easily for a gust since your mainsail's shape is already bowed.

With the new sails, I was also able to finally experience "crisp" sails.

_________________
Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
Image


Last edited by Tim H16 on Fri Jun 24, 2022 1:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed May 11, 2022 10:32 am 
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Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2015 3:29 am
Posts: 68
I perhaps have done the most stupid thing ever. I have bought a brand new sail for my old ass 74 H16 :D The old jib was stretched beyond belief. I have done delam repairs on almost the entire length of both decks and you might ask, why i didnt get a newer used boat? Whelp.. its kinda hard to do this in Bulgaria. Newer one costs here around 10 000 euro. Anyways, now im gonna try this super duper rake thingy everyone is talking about. I already have the modern 6:1 system. What else do i need? Do i need to extend the forestay or something?


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 23, 2022 1:12 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 24, 2007 5:28 pm
Posts: 135
Location: Bristol, IN
I went down that rabbit hole years ago with my old boat. New shorter shrouds and lower profile blocks. When I raked the mast back, there was interference with the step/base, and the stops were also worn, and would not stop the rotation. I had to grind the base to the new angle, make two new stops and bolt them on. This also required the jib to be recut as it was the original one, not the newer style that's already cut correctly. Lastly, the rudders needed raked forward as the center of effort had moved back. It was kind of a big ordeal, and I should have just bought a newer boat, tbh, but it is doable.


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