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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 6:27 pm 
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Joined: Fri Apr 13, 2012 7:35 pm
Posts: 626
Location: Tuscaloosa, AL
Have to remember this thread. Picking up an 84 on Friday.


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2012 11:06 pm 
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Joined: Sat Nov 26, 2011 11:35 am
Posts: 261
Location: Memphis, TN
I say get the basic safety rigging, some good sheeting, new drain plugs and some good 'ole fashioned clean and lube everything. Sail as often as you can ( Time On Boat ) and replace stuff with newer as you get a feel for things.... sticking hardware, rudders not quite right ect. If the hulls and mast don't leak and the hardware is strong, you'll soon know what needs upgrading. I've found that getting on the water and pushing the boat a little harder every chance I get makes me more aware of the whole package. Inspect the boat as you break down after each sail and make notes of little parts, odds and ends that look a little rough or you see yourself losing. After several sails, good fun, conversations with other sailors and a few cold beers you'll be good to go!
I use the stock '81 seaway block setup thats well maintained and it works great as long as the traveler is good. I've invested a lot here at Rooke Sails ( Hobie Dealer ) in Memphis on necessities but, I'f you're gonna replace half the hardware @ new, hobie retail prices it will soon cost more than your boat...very soon. If you're going to spend more than $7-800 in new gear for a 30 year old boat - just get a newer boat.
Tim

PS. A couple big long bungees holding the side stays and trap wires pulling forward towards the front pylons while you're stepping the mast will keep things under control and all the wires from getting trapped/stuck/caught just when you get the mast at half way up!! I use a SS fast clip on my forestay to clip the bridle wires quick too. Mast step in 6 sec, crew snaps to bridle wires and whew... the hard part is done.

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Tim Grover

Memphis, TN fleet 134
Hobie 20! G-Cat5.0 and 2 Hobie 14's
Photobucket now wants $100 to post pics on forums......... pass.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 6:07 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 16, 2012 6:11 pm
Posts: 25
Location: Portland, OR
So I am about to install the new Harken 240 swivel cams that I bought to replace the old originals.

Question: when mounting the new Harkens, should I mount them exactly where the old ones were - basically on top of the "base" that is already riveted to the front crossbar? Note that the old unit sat down in the well of the base, but the 240 is bigger, and so would rest on top of the base.

See the pic below (hopefully).

https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/PmOH9pYaqPVl5OHfcqL16NMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

Or should I remove the old base, and drill screws into the crossbar for the 240s?

Any help would be appreciated!

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1981 Hobie 16 Tequila Sunrise


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 6:34 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5197
Location: Detroit, MI
Remove the little plastic base on the new swivels and it will fit into the existing base.

(Although, for a few extra bucks, I'd replace the base on the crossbar, too. They have a lot of UV exposure = brittle.)


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 10:17 pm 
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Location: Portland, OR
MBounds wrote:
Remove the little plastic base on the new swivels and it will fit into the existing base.

(Although, for a few extra bucks, I'd replace the base on the crossbar, too. They have a lot of UV exposure = brittle.)


Thanks! Looks like I should be able to pry off the black plastic base. I'm not sure about replacing the stock bases - they're attached with rivets, and I'm not sure I've got the skill set (much less the tools) to get into drilling out and re-setting rivets...

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1981 Hobie 16 Tequila Sunrise


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2012 11:17 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 29, 2011 4:27 pm
Posts: 576
Location: Central Oregon
You will need one sooner or later....
http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty ... 66422.html

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1980 H16


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PostPosted: Thu Nov 08, 2012 12:02 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 10:33 am
Posts: 690
Location: Clinton, Mississippi
jimrude wrote:
- they're attached with rivets, and I'm not sure I've got the skill set (much less the tools) to get into drilling out and re-setting rivets...


Lots of info here on drilling and setting rivets. If you stick with this sport, you will have done about 50 of each by 2015!

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 22, 2024 6:10 am 
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MBounds wrote:
OK, here goes, with priorities assigned (1=high, 5=low)


One thing you have not considered is that with new rigging, new low profile main and jib sheet systems, you'll be wanting to carry a lot more mast rake. An old jib is not shaped correctly for this (too long in the foot). You should seriously consider getting a new jib (one that's less than 10 years old).


I appear to have this issue. I have the original jib/main sheet systems on my 1985 with all new rigging/aussie halyard. I can't get my jib leech/foot to stop luffing when pointing.

Should I try to reduce the rake or is there something else I could do other than all new sails.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 24, 2024 4:43 am 
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Location: Clinton, Mississippi
Nevek wrote:
I appear to have this issue. I have the original jib/main sheet systems on my 1985 with all new rigging/aussie halyard. I can't get my jib leech/foot to stop luffing when pointing.

Should I try to reduce the rake or is there something else I could do other than all new sails.


1. Reduce jib block stack height: When attaching blocks to clew, run both the pin and bow of the shackle through the holes in the clew plate. Also, they make some tiny jib clew blocks these days that work well, but you'll probably have to go with a smaller (1/4") line for the sheet.

2. Make sure jib is raised all the way and stays snug. That dyneema line on most of the Aussie systems does not hold a cleat well. I usually take six or seven wraps around the cleat before finishing it with a few hitches.

3. Crank some Springsteen up to 10 in order to drown out the helicopter noise. (It's the best way to listen to Springsteen anyhow.)

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


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