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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 5:36 pm 
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Sat May 29, 2004 8:03 pm
Posts: 57
on my port hull on the bottom you can see the glass material.. can I just paint over this or do I need to put some layer of something down first? its not noticable to the touch, its smooth like the rest of the hulls, but you can see it when the hulls are upside down or sideways.... its only about a foot long in the very center of the hull.. Like maybe beaching it on sand caused it over the years... any help would be appreciated.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 5:44 pm 
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Thu Mar 25, 2004 5:39 pm
Posts: 433
Location: West Texas
So what you're implying, then, is that all the gelcoat has worn away (by the sand or whatever) and the fiberglass has been exposed, but not enough that you can feel any weave, right?

Since you're re-painting, I'd probably put down a layer of Marine-Tex over the area and sand it smooth, then paint. That'll give you more protection for the glass than would be provided simply by the paint. :D

Warm regards,



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PostPosted: Sun Dec 19, 2004 6:08 pm 
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 8:07 am
Posts: 157
Location: Virginia
Your right, that wear mark is the normal result of beaching. First you wear through the gelcoat and then eventually into the resin that the fiberglass cloth is encased in. Periodically, people have "hull jobs" done on their 16s where the bottom is rebuilt to add more material there.

The questions is, what shape is the remaining epoxy resin in? If you haven't worn very far into the resin, you may not have to do anything. Does it look like there is still a relatively good amount of epoxy between the surface and the glass? If so, you shouldn't be in any immediate danger of damaging the fiberglass.

If, on the other hand, you need to add thickness to it, I would add more epoxy to it. It would be much more durable than paint or gelcoat. One thing, if you add more epoxy, make sure you smooth out the application well after your are done - trying to retain the original lines as much as possible. As 16s don't have any daggerboards, its their shape and the ability to keep the water adhered to them, that gives them the lift needed to point (especially on the sides of the hulls). Hobie offers a template to show the shape the hull to help people do their own. However, I have never used them.

You could paint it or add more gelcoat, but, again, I think that will wear pretty quickly.

Whatever you do, I suggest getting a set of beach wheels to help reduce wear in the future. When I am at home, I often have to put the boat away solo and winch the boat uphill over some beach and onto grass to where I store it. Here, I use 3 lenghts of 3" PVC pipe, allowing the boat to roll over the pipes. When one comes out the back, I toss it up front. Anything to reduce the drag factor.

Good luck

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