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PostPosted: Wed Feb 10, 2016 11:13 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 493
Location: Clearwater, FL
I consider myself not a racer but a recreational sailor who likes to go fast and fly a hull.

If necessary I will sail upwind or downwind (as when going in or out of the pass between the bay and gulf or if I need to get to a certain point), but otherwise I prefer beam reaching for most of my sailing. Particularly an on-shore breeze so I can make long runs along the coast. Beam reaching is the most fun for me since it provides the most speed and hull flying. As such, I keep my jib travelers usually out all the way. I also adjust the jib sheet tension as needed to better balance the wind load between the jib and main for the fastest speed without capsizing.

When doing a 180° beam reach tack, I find it helpful to put some additional slack in the jib sheet, turn more up wind, pull the main sheet traveler in towards the center and then start the turn. Once the jib starts to back wind you can release the main traveler (and main sheet if real windy) and then release the jib traveler (it's shock cord will pull it all the way in). When the main sail pops over you can then adjust your main traveler all the way out and tension your main sheet. At this stage the boat is slowly moving forward and you can adjust your lines on the boat, get a drink, etc. When you are ready to take off like a rocket, set your leeward jib traveler all the way out and then just release the the backwinded jib sheet and then sheet the jib sheet on the leeward side. This makes for a more consistent tack using the jib to backwind.

The two swivel cam cleats that I now use for positioning the jib travelers were originally used for my jib sheets and lance cleats were used for controlling the jib travelers. When I upgraded to the lo-profile jib blocks I set it up more like Hobie's jib traveler trim kit #1071. With the cam cleats on the lo-profile jib block being higher than it's roller fairlead it made it very hard to uncleat the jib sheet (particularly when sailing solo since I had to raise the jib sheet really high), so I decreased the angle of the cam cleats by flattening the black metal plate under the fairlead and cams and this made it a lot safer and easier to uncleat the jib sheet.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
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Last edited by Tim H16 on Mon Apr 19, 2021 2:02 pm, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Mar 14, 2016 11:37 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Jul 17, 2013 5:12 am
Posts: 6
When upgrading to the lo-profile jib block w/ cam (hobie part 1075) is the roller fairlead critical for performance? I have seen a version with a bulls-eye that runs a few bucks less.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 14, 2021 9:35 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2020 2:13 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Conway, New Hampshire
Nice review of just my issue on 1985 H16 ! Thanks

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'85 H16


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 08, 2023 10:09 pm 
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2023 6:22 pm
Posts: 2
Newbie bringing this up from the past.
I have the older system on the H16 I just bought.
He had a bungie hooked from one traveler to another.
It was broken on one side and the left over bungie was tied off to the tramp.
Is this a stock part or was this a poor mans upgrade to the traveler system?
I can't find any info on a bungie being used in the traveler system.
Thanks


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2023 6:39 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 10:33 am
Posts: 686
Location: Clinton, Mississippi
As indicated by MBounds above, the shock cord is there to automatically pull the traveler car all the way inboard (for upwind sailing) when the jib traveler line is released. Many folks do tie the shock cord from one car to the other. However, it works better and lasts longer if there are separate cords for each car (with the other ends attached to the dolphin striker at the opposite corner castings).

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2023 7:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 493
Location: Clearwater, FL
One of the advantages of using the roller fairlead on the 1075 jib traveler car instead of a bullseye is that you can mount an eye strap on top of it for holding the end of the jib sheet.

I also like running separate shock cords for each jib traveller car going to it's opposite side's corner casting. The longer length doesn't over stretch the shock cord as much as if it only ran between the two jib traveller cars. Separate shock cords also allows you to set the leeward jib car all the way out before a tack or gybe.

Image

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
Image


Last edited by Tim H16 on Thu Oct 12, 2023 9:31 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2023 7:52 am 
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Joined: Wed Sep 20, 2023 6:22 pm
Posts: 2
Thank you for the pic. That makes more sense to rig it that way. Using the bungie between both cars obviously puts too much strain on it. Which is why it broke! Back to the salt mines.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 24, 2023 9:05 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1182
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Tim
Great picture, and TY for explaining why two bungies are better than one.
Another thing to 'fix' for next season.

Now, looking at your powerpack aka downhaul.
Can you please post a picture with both ends?
I see the S hook at the bottom end, do you use an S hook at the top?
Anything to save 3 minutes while rushing to rig on a race night......

Currently, I leave the bottom end fixed, and open/secure/close a shackle each time to the boom at the top end.
Not always an easy task, when I am sailing solo and the wind is gusty.....

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2023 8:27 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 493
Location: Clearwater, FL
John,

I leave my 6:1 downhaul connected to the boom when trailering. My older style H16 boom has a "boom vang hanger" that I connect the "S" hook to (my current "S" hook is made from SS).

At the top of the down haul, I use a simple shackle to connect to the circle on the bottom of the boom's gooseneck. I also removed the swivel stops on the top block of the downhaul so that I can align it as needed.

This method allows for easy connecting to the mast or storing of the downhaul.

Image

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
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PostPosted: Sun Nov 12, 2023 7:41 am 
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Joined: Sun Sep 20, 2009 4:00 pm
Posts: 560
Location: Charlottesville, VA
I would never want that old vang attachment in place. I removed it from my older boat and IIRC the newer one never had it. Scalp scraping hazard IMO.

I still use a pin and ring ding to attach my downhaul but a snap shackle would be WAY nicer.

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'78 H16 #32692 ex-rental [gone]
Old Holsclaw trailer
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