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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 9:53 am 
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I have an aluminum Rolls Royce trailer which I am trying to retrofit for a Hobie 16. I've searched and searched online for the correct dimensions for a 16 trailer but have only found one useful link, http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=18133.

1. Can anyone verify if the dimensions shown in the link above are correct?

2. What is the correct axle width and how do I measure? Inside hub, center of wheels, etc.? My trailer frame is 40" wide and the link above shows the correct width at 48". Should I put a wider axle on to match the 48" width or just stay with the 40" frame and axle setup?

3. Where should the front mast support be located in reference to the front hull support?

4. I'd like to put cradles on the front support and double rollers on the back. Does anyone know the mounting requirements for these? I am thinking of using 3" box aluminum for the hull support crossbeams but want to make sure I use something which will make mounting the cradles and rollers strait forward.

5. I think I can either attach the crossbeams on top of the existing frame or under by replacing the existing cross supports which are mounted under the frame. Which is better, under the main trailer frame or on top of it? The frame is 3.5" tall.

Thanks in advance!


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:06 pm 
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Location: Hanover, PA
I may not have all the dimensions you are looking for but here are some I have from the trailer I use for my H16. It's a Long Trailer Co trailer originally.

Length nose to tail= 15'6"
Length from roller to roller= 8', If boat sits with rear pylon on top of rear roller then front roller is about 18" forward of front pylon.
Rear rollers located right on rearmost trailer crossbar
Outer width roller to roller= 7'6"
Inner width roller to roller= 6' 2"
Coupler to front roller length= 7'6"
Coupler to mast stand= 3'2"

Only other thing I can comment on is the crossbar set up. With the frame height of your trailer I would say mount them under the frame so you don't have too much height to lift boat up onto the rollers. Also, saw custom H16 craddles molded to hull shape on thebeachcats.com "hull craddles anyone" that might suit your needs.

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'95 H16 sail #101148
'89 H18 SX/ sail #1053 w/ Yellow hulls


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 29, 2011 6:07 pm 
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Location: Saint John, NB Canada sailing on Washademoak Lake
This might help: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=31115

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 30, 2011 8:28 am 
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Thanks everyone! Your responses have been quite helpful.

Any suggestions on height of crossbars from ground level? I'm still trying to decide whether to mount them on top of frame or under. Seems like on top would be much stronger but this would add about 3.5" to the distance.

Can anyone suggest a source for pivoting double rollers for the back support?


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 9:20 am 
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Location: Hanover, PA
For the rollers, look up trailex.com or order through Hobie catalog (pg 30) PN 38653100 from you Hobie dealer. The custom hull craddles are also on sailboxes.com.

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'95 H16 sail #101148
'89 H18 SX/ sail #1053 w/ Yellow hulls


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:15 pm 
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Location: Hudson Valley, NY
I found this site when looking for some trailer parts.
http://www.trailnsail.com/
You can see the double rollers on their trailer under "catamaran trailers"
you can find it under the parts catalog- trailer accessories.
I have never ordered from them so I cannot attest to the customer service, but it is a place to start

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Glenn Davies
'81 H-16 Cat Fever/Blue Hulls
'83 H-14 Cat Fever/Blue Hulls


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:24 pm 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
Like monkey boy says,put the cross bars on top of the trailer for better strength.I like to run my wiring in vinyl tubing to protect it too. :)

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 8:31 am 
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1. Has anyone used a v-shaped bow stop for the front mast stand?

2. What is the best method for securing a 16 mast? On it's side, front of mast down or up?


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 11:10 am 
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Location: Clinton, Mississippi
monkeyboy wrote:
What is the best method for securing a 16 mast? On it's side, front of mast down or up?


Sail track up. Anything except track down (to prevent damage to the track) is OK, but it won't stay sideways for long in most mast supports.

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Jerome Vaughan
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 04, 2011 9:50 pm 
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Location: Hanover, PA
For the mast I don't use anything fancy, just a towel for padding over rear traveler and front mast stand. Then I use the same towels to cover mast surface to prevent chaffing with either ratchet strap or bungie depending how far I'm going. Mast seems to sit well on it's side on both my cats.

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'89 H18 SX/ sail #1053 w/ Yellow hulls


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 8:52 am 
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Hoping to get cross members and new axle today.

Cross members:

I measured an old hobie trailer and came up with 83" (6.92') from center of roller to center of roller and 94" (7.83') crossbar end to end. Can anyone confirm these measurement for their cross members?

Axle:

I came up with about 56" for the axle width (spindle-spindle). Does anyone know their exact axle width? My frame is only 40" wide but the trailer should be strong enough to handle an axle wider than the stock one which was 52".

Thanks again,
David


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2011 1:23 pm 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
Hey Monkey Boy,
I measure my restored Holeclaw trailer and found the frame to measure 51 1/2" above the axle.The distance between the spindles is about 56/1/2".The wind is really kicking up right now so it was hard to give you a better measurement.
On the front& rear cross bar,I installed a 96" long 2"X2"X3/16" steel tubing.
Once you finished drilling holes and whatever to your crossbars,remove them and paint inside that tubing to really deter rust for starting inside out.Use a 10' long piece of 1/2" PVC pipe with a rag wired and screwed to an end as a paint brush.Like a long Q tip.Do this to all the tubing .I have restored many trailers and used several very expense paints before and found that the best paint is Rust-Oleum oil-based(Professional High Performance Protective Enamel).It will dry quick and last and cheap too.
For the front rollers,I went 79 1/2" center to center.
For the rear ,I went 81 1/4"
Those roller are called 8" but measure a little less.
The original rollers were less than 6" and did not fit the boat good,so I cut the bracket in half and added a 2" piece of steel and welded it together.The 8" rollers work well.
I like my cross bars little longer so I can use the extra space as a step to climb on my boat without stepping on the light fixture.
I run all my wiring in vinyl tubing and through a rubber grommet as it past into the steel tubing.No one wants to trouble shot damaged wiring while on a holiday trip or get pulled over after enjoying a few cold beers at the lake...... 8)
Good Luck,Bill

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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 8:07 am 
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Thanks Bill and everyone else. Your measurements and suggestion have helped immensely. I will try to post some before and after pics and final dimensions when its done and tested.

I just thought of another question:

What is the preferred wheel size? 8", 10" or 12"?

Cheers,
David


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 9:07 am 
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Location: Saint John, NB Canada sailing on Washademoak Lake
Really depends where you tow. The rougher the terrain, the taller the wheel. I'd go with a 12" here with the pot holes we have, the smaller ones would fall in while a larger may ride over. Still feel the bump, but not as hard.

Make sure you have trailer tires rated for the highway. In the smaller sizes, you can end up with turf tires if not careful.

Weight rating is not really an issue given the light load.

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Marc...
1978 Hobie 16 Keoke, sail# 36 84
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 07, 2011 1:40 pm 
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Location: Columbus, Indiana
Get the 12" wheels and check the load rating too.On my 16 trailer,I have 4.80X12 load rating "B",max load 780lbs.@ 60 psi.(that is per tire),trailer 4 ply,high speed.

If I did already make two custom spare tire "clam shell" boxes,I would have purchased 5.30X12.If my memory severs me right the 5.30X12 have a higher load rating and a little larger footprint on the pavement.

If you are need wheels too,get galvanized wheeled not painted.This way you won't need to repaint wheel in the future.

When we take a holiday out of state ,I like to at least keep up with highway traffic.... :)
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