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PostPosted: Sun Jul 24, 2011 8:14 pm 
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Location: Washington DC/Chesapeake Bay
I found these instructions a while back and copied them off the forum. I can't quite follow them though and was wondering if anyone has done this and can post some pictures.

Thanks in advance!


1. Disassemble the old 5:1 system so that you have 2 single blocks from the boom, one double block, and the single ratchet block and cam cleat that attaches to the traveler car.

2. Put the double block aside.

3. Carefully drill out the rivets of the single blocks using a 3/8" bit. Wrap tape around the block if you want to avoid spilling the bearings. If you are a perfectionist, go ahead and completely disassemble the blocks and clean bearings, races and side plates. Work in a shoe box to avoid losing a bearing.

4. Remove the cam cleat assembly from the ratchet block. Substitute two set screws from the base of the single or double blocks for the screws and washers that hold the cam cleat assembly to the block. The object is to provide a stop screw that will be flush with the face of the block.

5. At the hardware store, purchase three quarter twenty by three and a half inch stainless steel bolts, three matching nylon lock nuts and four flat washers (all stainless). Three and one quarter inch bolts are a perfect fit if you can find them.

6. Remove the anchor posts from the single blocks. Retain the post in the ratchet block.

7. Reassemble the blocks starting with an endplate and a single block. Use two washers on the lower bolts between the single bock and the ratchet block. Set the angle of the cam cleat assembly before adding the block to the stack. Add two more washers to the lower bolts and place the remaining single block on the stack.

8. Add the end plate and locking nuts to the stack. Don't over tighten the nuts. You should cut any extra length off of the bolts with a hack saw and file the end to a smooth finish without any burrs. You may wish to file off the edges of the flat washers below the blocks to further reduce possibility of harm.

9. Re-thread the mainsheet using the double block as the upper and the new triple as the lower. Tie off the sheet at the rear bail of the boom. Use a swivel connector to hold the double to the boom. It must pivot. Now you have a very short stack and a quick 5:1 system for peanuts.

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 2:56 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
I have done mine. What part are you having trouble with?

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 10:20 am 
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Hey thanks reelknotty,

I just can't envision it. I'm very handy and know I can do this, I just have difficulty "seeing" the steps. Maybe I'm too much of a visual and kinetic learner. If I could see some pics I'd whip this together in no time.

If you have any and wouldn't mind sharing could you send them to:

jman6631 @ gmail dot com

Thanks in advance!

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:19 am 
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Location: Satellite Beach, FL
This thread might help: http://www.hobiecat.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=7964&hilit=Reeving

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 11:46 am 
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you have mail

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PostPosted: Mon Jul 25, 2011 5:37 pm 
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Hey reelknotty,

Thanks a million for trying, but I don't have mail from you. To verify my email addy:

jman6631 @ gmail . com

If it's not too much trouble would you mind trying again?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 4:12 am 
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sent it again. If you don't get it send me an email [email protected] and I'll reply to that. Maybe gamil is throwing my to your spam folder?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 6:22 am 
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Thanks buddy, I retrieved them from the spam bucket, VERY helpful. Your set looks great!

One thing I saw in the meantime on the linked post above is a recommendation from mbounds to bring another set even closer together was to:

- cut the becket off the upper block
- get rid of the shackle at the bottom.
- get rid of the shackle used as a becket - use an eystrap above the cleat to dead end the line.

What do you think?

I also found this posted which looks interesting, too:

http://www.murrays.com/mm5/merchant.mvc ... re_Code=MS

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:09 am 
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Location: Lititz, PA/Somers Point, NJ
yes the beckett is now your limiting factor. For me it doesn't matter too much because my mast isn't raked.... yet.

I like the eye strap idea rather than the "sidewinder". to me it seems like a stronger and cheaper route to go. With the eye strap you have 2 bolts holding it on. The sidewinder only has one.

I'm not understanding how you get rid of the boom shackle. How is the block attached then?

to be honest i didn't do this project out of need. I just thought the old system with the 2 singles on the boom looked sloppy. I also have yet to sail this thing. a few more weeks and it will finally be done and able to hit the water.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 8:52 am 
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Good point on the eye strap.

One additional idea: I recently saw a racing tune-up video that showed a piece of shock cord running through the lower block and tying off to the traveler on each side to keep it more upright from flopping over so much. Looked interesting and affective and thought I might try it.

Has anyone out there ever done this?

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 26, 2011 5:56 pm 
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I did the conversion this winter and it has worked out great. I have raked my mast back a bit and I point better. It is an 83 and I have older sails so was not able to go Whole hog on the rake, but with the sheet block to block the main is pretty flat. I removed the becket and it is a sweet setup. Do not over tighten the bolts on the lower triple block. Make sure all the sheeves run smoothly. It really is a good mod. Works great.


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 12, 2017 3:34 am 
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I just stumbled across this thread and was wondering if anyone who has done this mod is still using this set up, and how is it holding up? I am thinking about doing this and if anyone has any step by step pictures, could you please share them. Thanks much.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 13, 2017 10:19 am 
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I have been using it since 2011 and have no complaints. Block to block is easy and pretty quick. It also lets out well in light air and I like the large diameter sheaves for smooth operation. May look a little bulky but is very functional. Harken snobs may snigger, but the money saved will go a long way with other improvements.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 14, 2017 6:04 am 
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Location: Opelika/Lake Martin, Alabama
Thank you mdgann. Was it very difficult to do or pretty much as the instructions state? I'd love to see some pictures of the set up to go by, if you could post some, that would be great. Thanks much.

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