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jib sheet setup
http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=3863
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Author:  Karl Brogger [ Sat Mar 17, 2007 5:26 am ]
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I'm not in from trapping till I'm completing my turn. Which is a better way to describe it. Usually you're hauling butt when you make that rounding. The fastest point of sail is a reach, but even when I'm just sailing around I find myself running a course on the lake just for practice. I don't think that it would be adventageous to take the jib traveler sheet out but thats based more on the way I sail. If its really windy I have the crew take the jib sheet out more as a life line to stabilize themselves, the block is usually pulled right down to the car. The new Tentec cars don't have a fairlead. Really sweet going downwind, pain in the butt going to weather. It's really hard to cleat when on the wire.

Author:  mmadge [ Sat Mar 17, 2007 8:49 am ]
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Cleating the sheets is for wimps and cruisers.I never like to have the main or jib cleated. I Only cleat the main when my arms are getting tired.

Author:  Karl Brogger [ Sat Mar 17, 2007 9:04 am ]
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Yeah I've been using the ratchet alot more than I used to. Especially when its really windy.

Author:  abbman [ Sat Mar 17, 2007 9:40 am ]
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DavidBell 47,
I'm not sure how you have your jib setup exactly but the way it used to be on my boat was that I has two continuous lines on each side of the mast. Like in these pics:
http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewt ... ght=#27982

I never did much traping out but if I did it would just be grabing the sheet out with me and the same line would adjust both the traveler position and the jib cleat. If that makes since. I have since switched to the continuous jib sheet with seperate traveler control lines that attach to the shrouds, which seems to be the prefered method. If you really want your crew to adjust the traveler from the wire it seems like this would work well. But I'm just an in-experienced sailor with no racing experience. I don't know if this helps or not.

Author:  Misfit [ Sun Mar 18, 2007 11:04 pm ]
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I'm an inexperienced sailor too so any help I can get is appreciated.

Where do you attach them on the shrouds?

Thanks,
Cory

Author:  abbman [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 8:58 am ]
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Misfit,
The way I just set it up on my boat is I have two traveler lines, one for each car. One end of the line ties off to the traveler car on the outside hole. I tie it off to the car by going through the provided hole upwards and tying a figure eight stopper knot then I go around a pully on the corner casting and through the cam cleat mounted on the cross bar. I then tie off the remaining end to the shroud with a bowline, it just makes a loop that loosely fits around the shroud. The two traveler lines cris cross on the tramp. Make sense? Hope this helps. I had the other setup that I just described, but I think that this setup(continuous jib sheet with two traveler lines) is a little easier to maintain while sailing solo. It seems to be a lot easier to spot the line that you want to and cleans up the deck a little.

Author:  Misfit [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 9:29 am ]
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thanks, that helped a lot.

Cory

Author:  DavidBell47 [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 12:03 pm ]
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Hey James,

Not to confuse anyone but I use a different approach. The way you have your boat set up is the way that I see most boats set up. However, I have my traveler lines set up the same way I have my jib sheet set up . . . one single line looped between the travelers. I've not set mine up like yours because I would like for the crew to be able to perform all functions from the wire and you can't do that with traveler lines that are only long enough to reach the shrouds. Until I'm proven wrong (which is quite possible), I beleive that the transition from close hauled to broad reach (rounding "A" mark) can be made without coming off the wire (if there's enough wind and you're beating double-trapped). If you don't hear from me again, you'll know that it doesn't work. :oops: Will send you photos when I get some.

Happy Sailing

David

Author:  abbman [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 1:04 pm ]
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I think I understand what you are saying. I may have been a little confusing myself. I have just switched to traveler lines that only reach the shrouds. But before I did that I had a slightly different setup. I'll try to explain a little more clearly, it may or may not be what you are talking about. Before my current setup, (which is illustrated in those photos) I had two looped lines. One loop for each side. Now let's see if I can describe it accurately. Keep in mind there are two continuous loops on each side of the mast. One end of the line tied off to the traveler car. It then goes around the pully on the corner casting. Then it goes through the traveler control cam cleat. Now here is where the loop is formed. After coming out of the traveler cleat, the free end of the line goes through the cleat on top of the car heading towards the bow, so it feeds through the teeth first and then through the fairlead(I think that's what it's called). Then the free end goes around the pully that attaches to the jib. After it goes through that pully it then ties off to the traveler on what I gues could be called the top of the triangle of the three holes on the traveler. I don't know if this makes sense or not. But with this configuration nothing ties off to the shroud. There is one loop for each side of the boat. If you were to pull the lines tight across the boat, as you would when holding the sheets on a tack? for instance, the same line controls both the jib and traveler car. One end of the line for each. I wish I could make a drawing, it's kind of hard to put into words. This was the loop can go out to the wire. It's a little hard to see in the picture but the starbord line is all blue and port all green. Does this make any more sense? I'm sure the way you are doing it works great, like I said I'm relatively new to all of this and I'm almost positive you are way more experienced, I just thought I would share. The way it is in the picture is the way it was set up when I got my boat. If you were to grab the line right of the jib cleat and grab the line right off the traveler cleat it is the same line.

Author:  DavidBell47 [ Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:52 pm ]
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James,

I think we understand each other but the words are just getting in the way. (Hey, isn't that a song??? :lol: ) Here are some photos displaying my setup with the traveler lines (yellow) are long enough for the crews access just like the jib sheet (red) while on the wire, should it be necessary (or even possible). We'll see! :o



Image

Image

Image

Image

Image


Happy Sailing,

David

Author:  abbman [ Tue Mar 20, 2007 6:53 am ]
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Gotcha. Crystal clear now, I thought that is what you meant. I've said it before and I'll say it again, that is one purdy boat you have there.

Author:  tim [ Wed Apr 11, 2007 5:43 pm ]
Post subject:  jib traveler control set up question

I have just purchased a jib traveler Control Upgrade kit(01 3120) w/ swivel cam cleats- from Murray's. Altho i am a newbie/rec'l day sailer type w/o plans to be out on trap yet, I hope to get in my first local lake race this summer. With that, what is the preference /advice /pros & cons regarding keeping the traveler control in one continous loop(like jib sheets) or cutting and terminating at eye straps(to be riveted?) on side bars behind shrouds? Seems logical to eliminate too many sheets loose on the tramp..esp with novice deckhands expected aboard as well.

Thanks for input

Tim
'80 H 16
So Oregon :?:

Author:  hobie1616 [ Wed Apr 11, 2007 7:21 pm ]
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Tie them around the shroud.

Author:  tim [ Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:16 am ]
Post subject:  Jib trav control set up

Thx..straight back or criss cross 'em?

Author:  mmiller [ Thu Apr 12, 2007 9:25 am ]
Post subject:  Cut

Cut the traveler line in two.

Cross them and tie off to the opposite shrouds. This is in direct line to the lee side cleat when you are on the weather side. At the shroud is easy to reach when trapped out, sitting on the rail aft or forward.

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