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PostPosted: Mon Sep 18, 2017 7:06 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2016 8:54 am
Posts: 16
There is a lot of "how-to's" when installing the cam cleat on a deck, but not a lot with regards to installing on a mast. I am using the 438 Cam-Matic Adapter® Plate, which (looking at the install instructions) appears to be attached to the mast via a screw. Then, following the general instructions for the cam cleat, screws are then used to attach the cam cleat (to the adapter plate) and into the mast. What kind of screws am I supposed to use? I have never had to "screw" anything to the mast, only pop-rivets. Obviously I will need to use stainless steel, but do I need like a machine screw? It seems like screws would not be ideal in that there is not much metal for them to grab when they are used on a mast. Yet it is clear when looking at the install instructions for the 438 Cam-Matic Adapter® Plate that a screw is being used. In addition, how does one seal around where the screw enters the mast to prevent corrosion?


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 5:50 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 23, 2005 11:20 am
Posts: 129
Location: Sodus NY
I assume this is for the adjustable jib halyard system. I have installed 5 or 6 of these. I use machine screws, tap the holes carefully and bed underneath the cleat with grey marineTex epoxy. I do not use a mounting plate, just the bare cleat. Mask off around the cleat with masking or painters tape. Apply epoxy. Barely tighten the screws because you can bend the cleat if tightened too much. Smooth around edges and remove tape. Let cure 24 hours. Never had one move and seals it too.

cheers
Bill


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 20, 2017 9:22 am 
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Joined: Tue Jul 26, 2016 8:54 am
Posts: 16
Yes, it is. However I have had second thoughts because the design I am trying to replicate on my mast has the halyard first going straight down to a cheek block that is set at the base (front and center) of the mast, then up to another cheek block about a foot or two on the side of the mast, then down to the cam cleat and cleat below that. Thing is, the first cheek block will position the jib halyard so that it may catch on my jib sheet when tacking? The system I have now is the original ('82 Hobie 16) which runs the halyard to the side of the mast where a cheek block and cleat are used to secure the halyard. This moves the halyard sheet out of the way so that the jib does not catch on it during a tack. Granted, the jib still catches from time to time on the mast itself, but my jib batons have "break-away" batons that help. So while this new set-up will allow me to easily adjust for mast rake, am I just creating another problem by having the jib now catching on the halyard line? This is what I have heard can happen, but don't know if it will. Is this how you have set up your adjustable system? Do you have problems with the jib catching?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 24, 2017 6:05 am 
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Joined: Tue May 23, 2017 6:36 pm
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I installed a Cammatic cleat with the 438 plate earlier this year on my '02. I also used machine screws (10-32). You will need one (shorter) one that goes through 438 plate itself and then into the mast and two (longer) ones that go through the cleat and the plate and then through on into the mast.

I started by drilling pilot holes and then tapped them appropriately. You can get a 10-32 tap at the hardware store for about $10. I used blue Loctite to seal the holes and prevent the screws coming out. Haven't gone over in this boat since the addition, but given the Loctite and the general fit of the screws I can't imagine much, if any, water could get in this way. This part of the mast is usually out of the water in a capsize, anyways.

I haven't noticed any more problems with the jib getting stuck with this newer system than with an '84 I also have that has the original halyard-on-the-side system. If anything it is better for some reason. Maybe someone can explain that or maybe its just I've sailed the newer one more in stronger wind.

Josh


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