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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 12:52 pm 
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Im looking into replacing some blocks on my H16 and get that part of the updating/upgrading out of the way.
The Harken website recommends to use two 351 (29mm) Carbo blocks for the jib clew.
I was wondering if I could use one 371 Carbo "jib clew assembly" instead which includes two 29mm blocks in a ring?

Any experience with these?

thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 1:57 pm 
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The only problem I can imagine is banging the mast with the blocks during tacks.

Brian C


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 2:24 pm 
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Ok that could happen with the 371 blocks being farther from the clew with the ring and a shackle.
But how do u guys have the clew blocks rigged?
Any pics?

thanks!


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 7:54 pm 
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I got the carbo tielites and they see to be just fine, just keep them out of the sand.

sam


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:08 pm 
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I was thinking of the 371 to be able to install/remove the blocks from the jib everytime I sailed with a shackle.

Banzilla, Do you just leave them attached to the jib clew while stored or remove them?

Tied with spectra?


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:31 pm 
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I use the quick twist halyard shackle. I got the 1/4 last time, but would probably go for the 3/16 from now on.

http://www.murrays.com/archive/30.pdf

I also use these on both sail halyard and just now figured out they could be use on the main sheet upper blocks. Hummm off to place an order.

sam


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 10:17 am 
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Ok u use the twist shackle to attach/remove the blocks from the jib clew, but what do u use to make a a loop on each ti-lite carbo block?


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 10:38 am 
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Ohhh, I'm sorry, they come with the cordage, I want to say it is a Yale cord of some kind but it is real good.

Sam


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 12:35 pm 
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Do all Ti-Lite Carbo suppliers/stores include the line/cordage to tie them off, or only when bought from murrays?
Do u know how much u paid?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 12:53 pm 
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It comes that way from harken.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 1:26 pm 
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We use the Harken H224, they are less than 9 bucks each we use a 4.7 mm bow shackle to make the connection, we put the belly of the shackle thru the sail, put blocks on each side, turn the shackle up and put the pin thru the next hole up on the jib, this will allow for a lower setting on the forestay adjuster. We have been doing this for years and never have had a problem or wanted bigger blocks, we run 1/4 line for our jib sheets.

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 2:45 pm 
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I replaced the clew plate on my jib as the shackle had worn it out and had elongated most of the holes.

Do u have this problem also by using a shackle on the jib clew?

Thats why I thought of the 351 carbos and attach them with spectra to the clew not a shackle....


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 2:54 pm 
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ALEXSAILS wrote:
I replaced the clew plate on my jib as the shackle had worn it out and had elongated most of the holes.

Do u have this problem also by using a shackle on the jib clew?

Yes, my Clew holes are elongated, but my sail is an 1973 sail and I am not going to put to much work into it.

ALEXSAILS wrote:
Thats why I thought of the 351 carbos and attach them with spectra to the clew not a shackle....


Problem is unless you keep you mast up all the time and you don't mind keeping your jib attached to the boat, you would have to re-do your jib sheets or spectra attachment each time you rig you boat, with the shackle you de-rig, and attach the jib blocks to the bridle wire chain plate and off you go.

Sam


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:01 pm 
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Also, The clew plate would probably be murder on even the best line.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:34 pm 
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Thats true...the plate would probably cut thru the line in no time. I dont mind changing the line in the plate every to outings, just to keep the plate intact. I could also press some brass grommets in the plate holes to add a smooth surface for the line. Just need to make sure they are the same diameter as the holes.


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