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PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 7:05 am 
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Thu Jul 07, 2011 8:45 am
Posts: 19
Hello! I have a question on the process to tension the jib. I am a second season Hobie 16 sailor and starting to think more about performance than just rigging willy-nilly and going out. So here is how I do it (sails only - i leave my mast up when stored).

1. I raise the jib first, tie off the jib halyard someone loosely.
2. Raise the main, then insert the bottom in the track (forget the name of this part), then alternate tightening the main while pulling down on the downhall. I am trying to the creases out of the sail, saw this on a Hobie instructional video btw. My goal, is to get the sail tight and get mast rake, so I try get the main blocks very close together.
4. Then, I re-tension the Jib (if nec) leaving the raked mast.

Does this make any sense at all? It seems like if I tension the jib first I would limit the amount of rake I could get on the mast. Then again, maybe i should raise the main first.

I am literally learning as I go so any and all input would be helpful!


PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 8:13 am 
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat Nov 06, 2010 8:10 am
Posts: 668
Location: Satellite Beach, FL
The easiest way to rig is to put the main up first and then the jib. It keeps the jib from banging you in the head when you're rigging the main. Then to derig, take down the jib first.

Mast rake is controlled by the length of the shrouds. You can adjust this by moving up and down on the adjuster. In general, you want to rake back as far as you can without limiting leech tension when block to block. Jib halyard tension will tension up the rig. Your shrouds will tighten up and your forestay will go slack. Too much tension and you'll have trouble with mast rotation.

I think you were talking about the downhaul. It sounds like you've figured out that sheeting in the main will help you bring in the downhaul.


PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:25 am 
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Wed May 05, 2010 8:28 am
Posts: 781
Location: Clinton Lake, KS
Don't underestimate the power of the Jib halyard for changing mast rake and really altering how the boat feels on the water..

I run the Jib up first and tension the rig pretty tight.. Until it is really really blowing I like the feel of the boat with a tight rig. (oir if it is really really light I let off a bit also to help the jib power up some) Not having the weight of the main just makes it a bit easier to pull the rig right exactly where I want it..... I then run the main up and deal with the jib slapping me around a bit. It just seems to work better.. The main seems to go up a little better with the mast raked a bit further forward than it would be with no jib halyard tension.

Once on the water don't be afraid to adjust the jib halyard tension. Small adjustments make big differences on how the boat responds to puffs and ect....

If you really need to seriously depower you can sometimes even go UP on the chainplates on the shrouds just a bit and let out even more jig halyard to get back to block to block... Remember pulling the main sheet effects more than just the main sail... and Jib halyard tension changes everything from mast rake to jib luff tension... But don't sweat it to much.. Just look closely at the sail shape and your tell tales and don't be afraid to make adjustments and you will start figuring it out..


PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 9:44 am 
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 331
Location: Clearwater, FL
I also prefer to raise the jib first and set the jib halyard's tension before raising the main. If the jib is flapping too much, just move one of the jib travelers out some and pull it's jib sheet enough to get the jib out of the way (make sure the jib is still in line with the wind).

I find it is easier to raise the main if the shrouds are tight and the mast is not floating around.

82' H16
Blue Prism
Sail # 88863
Clearwater, FL

PostPosted: Fri Jun 27, 2014 10:31 am 
Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5119
Location: Detroit, MI
I run a fairly loose rig on the 16 and I raise the jib first. I have a mark on the jib halyard (a piece of electrical tape wrapped around it, but a Sharpie works, too) to help me get it in the right place relative to the black band on the mast. It also gives me a reference point for heavy air (looser) and lighter air (tighter).

The way to measure mast rake is to raise both sails, then lead the main halyard out to the bridle tang (extending from the top of the mast down to the bridle tang) - mark the spot where the halyard touches the tang with your thumb, then lead the halyard back to the transom. Most racers run 12" - 16" (each black tick on the Comptip halyard ~ 1") of halyard extending below the transom.

PostPosted: Sat Jun 28, 2014 8:05 am 
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 921
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
This Forum is amazing, I learn something every day...

Years ago, when I first learned to sail cats, using old-style beat up H16's, we found that raising the main FIRST worked better.
The mast was not under tension from the jib, and it was easier to raise the main with a loose rig, no binding etc.
Plus no hits in the face!

With the main 'hooked and holding', we then raised the jib and tensioned the rig.

Perhaps it is different with newer and better maintained H16's, raked masts, newer sails, no binding etc.

I wonder if there is any difference in rigging between older and newer style H16's?

1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

PostPosted: Mon Jun 30, 2014 3:05 pm 
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sun Jun 08, 2003 7:21 pm
Posts: 889
Location: Thunder Bay,On
Measuring the Mast Rake by the Main Halyard methods is a little misleading.
My numbers by that methods,with the shrouds pinned 4 from the bottom and a very tight rig is 22".When I had a chance to match up with Wally Myers ,he also on a 2006 was measuring the same on his boat.In that Event in (10-15 knts) Wally won and I was third.
I think a better indicator is distance from rear beam to boom,with slack sheets.I think any where from 14-18" is in the ball park.

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