Tool used to to fix batten pockets

Can someone post a picture or link to the specific tool used to compress the rivets (thingies) used on the batten pocket protectors on a H16 mainsail? And where to get one?

I need to replace a cracker one, and don't want to have to bring it to a sail loft to have it fixed.

Here's a pic of a non-broken batten pocket protector.



Thanks
Fred

You may find the following thread useful. I replaced the protector using screws rather than rivets. Probably cheaper and easier in the long run unless you plan on replacing a lot of those batten protectors.

viewtopic.php?f=20&t=45176

sm

I don't know bud… I couldn't find the tool either. Thats why when I just took my sails in, I had them replace all of them at once. Would be nifty to have that tool though…

_________________
2011 H16... Have a Hobie Day!
1983 H14 Turbo...

Is this what you're looking for?



But you'll need a set of these, too:


They both come from Hanson Rivet Co. (http://www.hansonrivet.com) - but they don't have prices on their website - you have to request a quote. I'm guessing a few hundred bucks, minimum.

I went through this same process a few years ago. What srm suggests is the best short-term solution - a bolt-together batten pocket cap is only about $10 and will last indefinitely:


Or, if you're like me - you make your own rivet-setting tool. I ordered the rivets and dies from Hanson, tried using a hammer to set the rivets and was unsatisfied with the results. Too difficult to control the dies.

So, I welded together my own rivet-setting tool out of a few parts from the hardware store and some rectangular steel tubing:

It works, but barely. It's still hard to control, and despite its robust appearance, it flexes a bit. It allowed me to replace my batten pocket cap with the OEM rivets, but it took a while.

a quick trip to Lowes or Home Depot is all you need get the SS screws and SS nuts nylock and you are good to go for another 20 years. one of the HC easier fixes
Former Hobie Admiral Gary

I disagree, Admiral. The heads on the #8 machine screws, nuts, and the washers that you will buy at Home Depot are all too large to fit inside the recess of the batten pocket (I know this because that was my original plan). Yes, in an emergency, you could go this route and make it work well enough just to get through the weekend, but the screw heads/nuts are going to be on the outside of the pocket protector which is going to be extremely bulky and not likely to seat properly. You could use the next size smaller screw (#6) but I'm not even sure if they sell those at HD and even if they do, then your using a fastener that's really too small.

The only screws and washers I was able to find that would fit into the batten protector were the MIL spec screws I called out in my earlier post. Yes, it is an easy fix, but finding the right fasteners that will fit properly is half the battle.

IMO, Hobie really should offer a luff protector repair kit that uses screws. They could keep the existing riveted protector for shops and sail lofts, and then offer another kit with screws for end users. Even if the screw kit cost twice as much as the rivet kit, I think it would still be worth it for most people to avoid all this hassle of replacing such a simple component otherwise.

sm

Interesting....
such small pieces need such a large and complex machine to 'set' them.

Chip at Whirlwind uses the ss screws and bolts on replacement sails.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Here is a much quicker and cheaper solution:
What we used to call a pop-riveter 30 years ago. Get a Stanley riveter (MR33) $9.97 and a pack of 50, 5/16" dia x 1/2" grip rivets ($5.98) at Home Depot. Make sure you get the 5/16" dia x 1/2" grip rivets. Smaller gauge won't hold.

Some of my batten pockets were cracked so bad that the jib lines got hung on them occasionally. I drilled out the old rivets and installed five new to each batten pocket in less then 10 min. per pocket. They hold fast and look great. These are aluminum so the saltwater sailers might have more corrosion. Check and see.

Dunnunder

This is what I used and it is in every store:

Pop rivets will work, but they aren't going to leave a very "finished" appearance on the end of the rivet (the end opposite the factory head). I would also be careful there are no edges left or exposed pieces of the mandrel which could snag the sail cloth.

sm

INSTALL HAND TOOL - HANSEN RIVET HT-171

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

With regards to these rivets, the Hobie catalog shows that all sail rivet locations (tack/clew plates, main headboard, main and jib pocket protectors and jib clew plates) all use part 8010020 which is a brass 1/8 x 5/16 (4-5) tubular rivet. Murrays uses 3/16 x 3/8 (6-6) and 1/8 x 3/8 (4-6) aluminum solid rivets.

Is there a benefit from using the smaller (4-5) brass rivet vs the (4-6 & 6-6) aluminum rivets?

_________________
Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

You can also clean up those pop rivets and finish the deformed ends a little. I have also used solid aluminums with a hammer and homemade mandrel. They all work ok.

More modern main pocket protector caps use the larger rivet.

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)