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 Post subject: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2015 10:38 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:56 am
Posts: 3
New to this forum and new to H16 but have sailed mono-hulls. I just picked up an older 1970-1980's H16 classic with stock rigging. I am looking for advise on upgrades. I know the original Jib Traveler Blocks have to go. I would appreciate any advice on that and/or other rigging for better sailing and handling.

Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 7:33 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1184
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Ahhhh! the Hobie 'bug' bites again.

Nothing has to be changed if you want straight-forward plain old fun. An H16, new or old, will give you plenty of smiles and thrills.
However..... if you want to upgrade, I suggest you consider the budget, you could easily spend a few hundred or a few thousand....

In 1994 or so, the H16 world changed as stock boats moved to a longer forestay, shorter shrouds, a slightly differently cut jib,
with the whole idea of MAXIMUM MAST RAKE. When beating, the boom should almost touch the blocks above the rear cross bar.
So you could do it on the cheap by adding another 10 hole adjuster at the junction of the front bridle wires, file the mast base a bit, and upgrading the mainsheet blocks to low profile. Or, you could buy a new forestay, shrouds, jib sail, main sail, mainsheet, mainsheet blocks, mast base, new style jib blocks, new EPO rudders, J&H trap handles, and a case of beer.

Why not find some local Hobie sailers, give them the beer and listen to what they have done with their H16's.... and see what others say on this Forum.

Welcome to the Hobie World.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 11:15 am 
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Joined: Thu May 03, 2007 2:28 pm
Posts: 91
Location: Chicago
yeah, what John said.

One of the first things I did to my stock H16 was change my vinyl tramp to a mesh one. Easier on the knees and you don't sit in puddles. Every year I upgrade or replace something.

You have to change the standing rigging periodically if you don't want to dismast out on the water at some point when a side stay breaks.

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1989 H16
2009 H16 squaretop


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Fri Jul 31, 2015 3:37 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jan 27, 2014 1:34 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Bellingham, Washington
What they both said with emphasis on replacing the standing rigging first if you don't know how old it is or if you see any issues.
It sucks to damage the sails and get stuck on the water for failed rigging.
Sail the boat, find other hobie people, you will figure out what is important to you fairly quickly.

-Todd

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Todd
Hobie 21SE
Bellingham, WA


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2015 9:52 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 27, 2014 8:16 pm
Posts: 41
Location: Portland Oregon
The first thing I did during my H16 resto was to replace all wires and halyards. Really nice to know that it's all current and stable. Wasn't too bad either, like $350 for all of it. The wiring is vinyl coated too which is nice to the skin. For sure find local peeps to help you out. Unfortunately I haven't been able to coax anyone from the Portland Oregon area to meet up. Grrrr

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Find the wind!!
1981 H16 Gonzo Nationals


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 6:02 pm 
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:56 am
Posts: 3
Thanks all! I thing I'll just sail her this year and when it's high and dry this winter, tinker a bit. I know the rigging is all in good shape, some areas on the pontoons are getting soft and it can use a good cleaning and paint job, figure that's a good place to start. For now, we are going to sail as long as the water is warm and the breeze is blowing!


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Mon Aug 03, 2015 8:03 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 03, 2015 7:37 pm
Posts: 21
Location: Devils Lake, Michigan
I'm very new too but may I suggest getting different clips for the stay pins. The triple ring type are quite a pain in my book. For less than a dollar I changed out to the single loop kind with the easy start tail on it. Makes life sooooo much easier if you are a trailer sailer. My dad for many year ran quick clips and really liked those, even though they aren't "recommended" for that use haha. Not a performance boost by any means but will make getting use of your boat a shorter process. Have fun with the Hobie man!! :D


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 8:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1184
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
A 'good paint job'?
Whoa there, big fella, clean and buff yes, but no paint please.

You'll add 10 lbs per hull, and within 8 months, the paint will chip and peel.
Plus Awlgrip or the equivalent is reeeeally expensive and a devil to spray and sand and spray and sand.
search the Forum for 'cleaning and buffing'.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2015 10:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 12:56 pm
Posts: 740
Location: Los Angeles
John is right about two things. The paint and the stupidity !!! :lol: :roll: :lol: :roll: :lol: :roll:

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Happy Sailing,

David


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:38 am 
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Joined: Thu Jul 30, 2015 9:56 am
Posts: 3
I agree with the paint but the former owner fixed some delamination and now the top of the pontoons look a mess! :(

Any suggestions on easing the effort for hiking the main? It is a bear. At times the mast will bow before the sail will move. We try to be gentle but it is a real chore. I am going to look for the right sized fiber rope and some solvent to be used like a pipe cleaner.


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 9:56 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
Posts: 1184
Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
Main sail track...
gently lay the boat on it's side, and using soap and water, scrub out the track.
Sand and other debris can make life 'interesting'.

Then get some McLube or equivalent silicone spray, and coat the track well.

Then look at the mainsail bolt rope, especially the lower 20".
Spray that too. If the cover to the bolt rope is tatty, get repairs at a competent sail maker.

Then check your batten tension.. if too tight, the sail will shape nicely, but put tension on the luff edge and be very difficult to raise.

Always raise the main first, then the jib. (As you may know, it is the jib halyard that tensions the entire rig.)
My crew used to hold the boom up to help with the raising of the main.

At worst, if the bear is still with you, lay the boat on it's side and raise the main slowly, looking for problem areas.
Just so you know, my buddy sails a Unicorn rigged with a A-Cat mast and main, and he has to drop the boat each time he rigs.

_________________
2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 10:29 am 
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Joined: Fri Aug 18, 2006 1:11 pm
Posts: 313
Location: West Point, Utah
What John said. But before you go to those lengths, try standing on the ground just in front of the crossbar and mast and place your hands on either side of the sail just aft of the bolt rope and sail groove (Looks like you are praying to the wind gods) and push some of the sail up into the groove. Then go back to pulling on the halyard. This may be all it takes to get it those last few feet.


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 Post subject: Re: H16 Classic Ugrades
PostPosted: Wed Aug 05, 2015 6:42 pm 
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Joined: Wed Dec 28, 2005 12:56 pm
Posts: 740
Location: Los Angeles
John Lunn wrote:

Always raise the main first, then the jib. (As you may know, it is the jib halyard that tensions the entire rig.)
My crew used to hold the boom up to help with the raising of the main.


Sorry John, but I disagree with this portion of your post. Sailing solo most of the time (and having to rig my boat solo as well), I've found it to be easier to raise the main when the mast is as close to vertical as possible. This would mean raising the jib first. This would eliminate much of the track drag when raising the main.

All-in-all, I guess it's what works best for whomever has the task. Good luck to you all !!! :wink:

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Happy Sailing,

David


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