the right way to replace a broken gudgeon w/ sheered screws

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downsjn

Post subject: the right way to replace a broken gudgeon w/ sheered screws

Posted: Mon Aug 15, 2016 9:18 pm

Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Sep 07, 2015 6:50 pm
Posts: 1

i've seen many suggested ways to repair a broken gudgeon and sheered screws on this forum. what does hobie recommend?

i've got port holes already in the rear of the hulls but i can barely reach the screws from the inside.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxsCZkn6f6uBUEt2Y3FOV21UTjQ

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxsCZkn6f6uBMWZrR0NKZ0xlR3c

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0BxsCZkn6f6uBYV9Ndklibmw3Y3M

i dont want to do what this guy did:

abbman wrote:

JePense,

I had a gudgeon fail many years ago while racing in the ocean. It was no fun coming back to the beach with one rudder stuck near horizontal.

I was really intimidated by the repair and actually didn't sail for several years due to not knowing how to fix it and not wanting to pay someone else to do it. I had several screws sheer off well inside the transom near the aluminum plate.

I went the extreme route and re-built my transoms. I actually ground everything down to the aluminum plate, removed the old plate and installed a new one, re-glassed everything, drilled and tapped holes for new gudgeons, and installed the new one piece gudgeons. I've been happy with my repair.

Here are a few pics of the process from my repair. I just didn't want to cut ports into the boat, even though I understand some of the advantages.

http://s1319.photobucket.com/user/jsaut ... sort=2&o=0

I had zero experience with fiberglass prior to this repair, but I did enlist the advice of a friend with experience. It turned out that this repair wasn't nearly as difficult as I was making it out to be. Should you decide to do something along these lines I'd be happy to give you more detail about the process. But again, I'm in no way an expert on fiberglass repairs. I'm happy to say that my repair is holding up strong after a year of sailing 6-7 days a month for quite a while now.

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srm

Post subject: Re: the right way to replace a broken gudgeon w/ sheered scr

Posted: Tue Aug 16, 2016 7:38 am

Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 4178
Location: Jersey Shore

I don't think there's really a "recommended" way. There are things you can try, but every project is going to be a little different. If you can get at the screws from the inside with a pair of vice grips and get them out that way, it would probably be best, but as you said, your access port is not close to the screws and even so, your vice grips will probalby hit the side of the hull making turning very difficult. I would use a good dose of penetrating fluid on the screws to help with any corrosion.

If you can't get on the screws from the inside, I'd probably start by drilling out using a left hand drill bit. Be sure to center punch the screw so the bit doesn't wander and try to drill as straight as possible.

The next step would be to continue drilling and then tap the holes for larger 1/4-20 screws or, since you have an access port, possibly just thru-bolt the screws using a ratchet wrench with a long extension.

As a last resort, you could install a set of die-cast, one piece gudgeons and skip the holes that have the broken screws. It may even be possible to drill and tap new holes near the old holes for additional screws.

sm

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abbman

Post subject: Re: the right way to replace a broken gudgeon w/ sheered scr

Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2016 6:12 am

Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon Oct 09, 2006 2:34 pm
Posts: 621
Location: NC

Why ya got to call a guy out?!?!

But seriously, I don't blame you for not wanting to go that route. Mine had sheared off way worse than yours. They were well inside the hull and there was nothing close to a flat surface to drill on. It was a last resort.

I would have gone with a left-handed bit as my first option if I had known about them at the time. I still don't think it would have worked in my case, but it would have been the best starting point.

If you haven't backed those screws out in the last year or so, I'd bet they are more or less fused to the aluminum plate by now. That's how mine were anyway. I don't think a vise-grip would have broken them from the plate.

If you can drill them out and go up a size, that is another good option.

I had a buddy that was able to swap them out for the die cast ones without an issue as SRM suggested. It didn't work for me though.

_________________
James
86' Redline Hobie 16
Sail # 76909

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