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PostPosted: Mon Aug 14, 2017 7:31 pm 
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I replaced these a long time ago and broke one today and i can not remember what I need to do to fix it...help please


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 11:30 am 
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Bump


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 15, 2017 3:10 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
What model boat?

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 16, 2017 4:01 pm 
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Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 9:24 am 
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Moved the topic to the Hobie 16 forum. Was in kayak area.

The cleats are held to the mast with stainless rivets.

Parts guide: https://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/14-16_March_2017.pdf

10730000 CLEAT-MAST
Image

Halyard Cleat rivets: 8010121 (2)
Image

Dealer Finder: https://www.hobie.com/dealers/

You have to choose a product type. Use: "Fiberglass Sailboats"

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Matt Miller
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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 11:55 am 
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Matt,

What about the seals that go in the hole before the rivet is inserted? It looks like a top hat. The hole for the rivet has to be larger to accomodate the assembly.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 3:55 pm 
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You are right! I forgot it! Not on the catalog parts rivet list and on the mast drawing it is shown as rivet in one sub drawing and just the sleeve on the mast. That is odd.

8011291 RIVET CAP (2)
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Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 18, 2017 9:01 pm 
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Thanks


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 11, 2017 7:53 pm 
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You will need a good rivet gun. Stanley from home depot. Lubricate bore of gun with wd40.ensure one mandrel is expelled from gun before inserting another rivet.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:40 pm 
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Be sure to put a dab of sealant in the center hole vacated by the pull pin. Keep your mast water tight to prevent it sinking on you.


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PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 5:21 pm 
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happy sailor wrote:
You will need a good rivet gun. Stanley from home depot. Lubricate bore of gun with wd40.ensure one mandrel is expelled from gun before inserting another rivet.


I can do 1/4 inch stainless rivets with this tool. It's well worth the money.

Image

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-1426-4-Inch-Heavy-Duty-Riveter/dp/B00061SFDM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1510186990&sr=8-1&keywords=B00061SFDM%7CB00061SFEG%7CB000MQ9H42%7CB000MQ9H4W%7CB0039697ME%7CB003TODXQW%7CB004KLVJAA%7CB009NC9174%7CB00HZBX1OO

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2020 8:01 am 
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Location: Williamsburg, VA
Matt,
Could you please provide a bit of clarification related to the main halyard cleat replacement and how to use said rivets? There are a lot of online videos related to pop rivets on Hobies, but none seem to use the rivet caps.

1. Hole size/preparation: hrtsailor said, "The hole for the rivet has to be larger to accomodate the assembly." Is this true? It looks to me like the rivet cap you recommend is a 3/16, same as diameter of the rivet itself. Can I simply punch the old rivet into the mast and install the new cap/rivet without drilling out the hole?
2. Order of installation: Again from hrtsailor, there is a reference to "seals that go in the hole before the rivet is inserted." Do you first slide the rivet cap in the hole, then follow up by sliding the rivet into the cap, then pop the rivet to lock both in place?
3. Equipment: The replacement horn cleat has a trough down the middle so that the holes for the rivets are indented. I have seen at least one video stating that their rivet tool needed to be modified to fit into this depression to get a firm fit against the rivet. Any special equipment or recommendations here?
4. Sealant: Some folks on the forum have discussed various caulk ideas to seal the rivet hole. Do you recommend any such product or should the rivet and cap produce a water-tight seal by themselves?

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Current Boat: Hobie 14 Turbo
Previous Boats: Hobie 18, Hobie 17


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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2020 1:12 pm 
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I’m not Matt, but just did this exact repair on my H14T.

Removal: Drill off the heads of the existing rivets with 1/4” bit. Take your time and use moderate pressure and let the drill do the work. Eventually, you will free the broken cleat and then can remove what’s left of the broken cleat using pliers or whatever. Next, you’ll find the old rivet caps still in mast. To get these out, drill the “flange” of the caps with the 1/4" drill bit until the flanges come off leaving the remnants of rivets and caps in the holes in the mast. I found this a bit tricky because there was some of the old rivet left but eventually using moderate pressure and a sharp drill bit the material was removed. Punch what remains in the holes into mast with a punch. You should now have two clean holes in the mast.

Reassembly: Put some RTV sealant on the part of the cap that inserts into the mast. Insert the caps into the holes in mast. The new rivets will go into the caps. While holding the cleat over the rivet caps, insert the rivets into holes in cleat (and into the caps). I found that putting both rivets in kept the cleat aligned. Pull top rivet. Repeat the bottom rivet. Done.

While the rivet heads are recessed into the cleat, the cleat is plastic and I was able to deform it enough by pushing down with my rivet gun to get nose flush (the flanges of the cleat deformed a bit but returned to normal once I removed the rivet gun). Others have said to use some small nuts or washers to make a spacer. You'll need to see what works with your rivet gun.

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