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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 8:25 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2017 1:13 pm
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In the early 80’s I had a “Cat Fever” for about 7 years. I don’t have the grip to water ski anymore so thought about another Hobie. Ok! After 78 years you would think that I would research before a purchase, not after! I now have an old H16! It has been painted so I can’t see the year info. but is pre black anodized aluminum around the trampoline, but the mast is black. I looked it over. The mast has a slight bend, about 4 inches over its length starting about 11 feet from the bottom, not twisted, the base is broken where the pin goes to raise the mast, not uncommon, the sails and jib, there are two sets, seem to be in good shape except for a few small rips and holes that have been patched, the rudders are good and lock. So for $500 with trailer I purchased it! Now the research started and I heard about something called “SOFT SPOTS”! The right hull, I still haven’t figured out the port starboard thing, is soft for about 18 inches in front of the front pylon but doesn’t crunch. The left one is soft for about 24 inches and crunches.

I am looking for advice! We are on an inland lake in south west Michigan. I can think of a few options: 1 – Sail it until if brakes and leave it where it goes down for fish habitat. 2 - Cut the aluminum up, sell it for scrap and sell the trailer. Don’t think there is much of a market for parts in this area. 3 – I’m not sure of the construction of the tops. From what I read it sounds like two layers of fiberglass with something in between?! What about: A - Cut a hole for an inspection port. B - Turn the hull over. Raise the hull to be able to work through the hole. C. - Install a small camera so I can see what I am doing. D - Lay in some layers of fiberglass running from side to side. E – Fill the area between the layers with epoxy.

Any Ideas or advice on idea 3 would be greatly appreciated along with any other suggestions.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 10:16 am 
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I recently repaired my 1974 for a soft spot that sounds similar to yours. it was quite an easy fix with an epoxy called Git Rot meant for dry rotted wood. It is much more watery than typical epoxy. I bought a pint kit on amazon for $42 and it left me with quite a lot left over. Drill through the top layer of fiberglass and the middle foam layer but make sure not to go through the third layer. drill as many holes as you feel covers the spot well. Inject the epoxy so that it fills up the soft spot and clean up the excess as you're going. It took a few hours to get solid. If I were you I'd keep it.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 11:40 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
Continue your research...this is probably the most highly discussed topic on the forum.

A Hobie hull consists of a thin inner and outer fiberglass "skin" which surrounds a high density foam core (about 3/8" thick). This creates a very light weight yet strong hull structure. Soft spots, or delamination, happen when the bond between the fiberglass and the foam breaks down and the two components separate. When this happens, the strength of the hull reduces considerably.

Soft spots are very common on older Hobies. The soft spots in your boat are in the typical (and worst) location. Soft spots that go "cruch" are a very bad sign. It means that the hull is flexing to the point that the laminate is actively breaking down (every time you hear a crunch, it means that more fiberglass is separating from foam and/or the fiberglass on the inside skin is cracking).

I would not cut access ports in the deck. Your only potential option would be to perform epoxy injection to try to rebond the existing fiberglass to the foam. It can work OK for small soft spots, but from the sounds of what you've got going on, I doubt you will be successfull. Again, lots of discussion already exists on this topic, so read up and then make your own decision on how to proceed.

From your description, my suspicion is you would be better off sourcing a new(er) set of hulls or a new boat all together.

Sailing the boat until it breaks is probably the worst thing you could do. It is downright dangerous. When the bow breaks off, the mast will come down and you will be stranded on the water with half a floating boat that can neither be sailed nor easily towed to shore.

Either fix your hulls, replace them, or part out the boat.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 12, 2017 12:14 pm 
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Here's instruction on delam repair: Image

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 13, 2017 10:13 am 
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+1 on srm's reply

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86' Redline Hobie 16
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 12:32 pm 
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Joined: Fri Oct 06, 2017 1:13 pm
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What a quick reply! This is my first forum, hope I am doing it right. Thanks all for your ideas. Yah, I didn't think anyone would go for "sail till it brakes". I kind of like the Git Rot material idea. It seems like it has a longer working time and being so thin it should really penetrate the voids in the foam. Is the crunching a sign that the bottom layer of fiberglass is broken or only that delamination is happening on the bottom as well as the top of the foam?


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