hobie 16 rigging problem

Just bought a early 80's 16 the Hull seam solid no delamination I could find and price was right
I Own 14 and 18 Ft Hobie so somewhat familiar on how it should rig

Here is my 1st problem
The shrouds (7 hole adjuster) in the top hole step the mast the forestay (10 hole adjuster) is a fight to get it in the top hole. had to have one person pushing the mast back as hard as they could one person lifting the adjuster with the bridles to barely get the pin in the top hole. first I thought a cable was crossed or thimble was turned had it up and down couple time to make sure that wasn't what was causing it. the mast is solid Alu not comp tip it is black where the tramp frame is alu color and looking at my 14 shrouds attach to the sides of the frame not the hulls did hobie do that on 16 some years and have shorter shrouds ? Oh and yes the twist toggle is there below the adjusters . anyone know wire lengths so I can measure and see what's wrong ?

Second problem
sailed all day no problems went to go in tried to drop the main it came down few feet and locked tried everything thinking it was caught on the 2nd lock for reefing point wouldn't come down so had to carefully tip the boat over on the shore and found the cable had jumped the sheave. I guess I was pulling from to much of angle from the sheave letting it jump ? is this common ? anyone make replacement sheave from what I see its obsolete ?
If nothing else I'll drill the pin out and a make a billet aluminum sheave little wider and/or with deeper grove ? be a lot easier to buy one !

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H14
H16
H18
H18

I always raised my mast solo. To do so, I tied a line about 6' long to the jib halyard and to the shackle on the the bridle. When I raised the mast, I would reach down and uncleat the jib halyard, pull it in tight, and re-cleat. One advantage was that it pulled the bridle up and the mast forward to make it easy to fasten the forestay. I believe the shrouds were made shorter in newer models which might explain your difficulty. Once the jib is up and the halyard tight, it becomes the forestay, and the other one should go slack.

Someone will be able to give you the shroud lengths. I never had the problem you described with sheave at the top of the mast.

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Howard

Shroud and forestay lengths have changed over the years to accomodate more mast rake. My guess is someone put new (shorter) shrouds on without also replacing the forestay. Easiest solution would be to add a second 7 hole adjuster to the top of your existing forestay adjuster. The forestay on a 16 does nothing after the jib is hoisted, so letting it be loose with the extra adjuster won’t hurt anything. If you want to be able to rake the mast a little more forward, then the other option would be to change to 10 hole adjusters on the shrouds.

sm

Thanks
I'll try double adjusters
and it makes since once the jib is up it's no longer holding anything
Guess I'll drill the rivets out of the mast head and make a billet aluminum sheave
Bought the boat for step son to learn to sail just want to make it easy for him to rig and safe !

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H14
H16
H18
H18

After the jib's halyard is tightened and the forestay is now loose, a small bungee cord can be used to pull the forestay's adjuster forward so that the forestay will not rub against the jib's luff.


With regards to the mast's sheave check this forum topic out: Mast tip, old style sheave

https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=62842

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

Thanks the picture it helps also gives a good place to mount wind indicator I like it

Obsolete Mast Head Pulley ... No Problem

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H14
H16
H18
H18

I have masthead pulleys available
Used, but in VGC
Complete assembly, single sheave head casting...drill out old rivets, pop on new(er)

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1984 H16 "Mister Rogers"
1984 H14 "Sundays"
2000 H20 "Jet"
Sheet In, Max Out

No offence why would I want to replace it with a old used part that could fail just the same when I can and did upgrade ?

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H14
H16
H18
H18