Have gathered some info considering the original question about if there has been changes in production one should take into consideration when choosing between second hand Hobie 16 catamarans manufactured over years.
The material of hulls was changed 1983. After that vessels should be comparable, as far as I understand so far.
Found some advice how to choose between secondhand Hobie 16 catamarans available at the market. Hope someone finds it useful.
It is suggested by the
International Hobie Class Association that: "
If you intend to purchase a used boat to be used for racing, you will want a 320 lbs. boat. You should look for something manufactured since 1993.In general, as
hobieclass specifcations says under topic Production Changes:
Quote:
While incremental changes have been introduced over production, a 1972 Hobie 16 will look very similar to a new one. Changes over the years have improved and standardized boat production around the world. New boats today are built with better hardware, hull weights are tightly controlled and a new boat needs only a few racing modifications. In recent years, the major changes have been the introduction of cross bars where the traveler tracks are inegrated into the cross bar, hardware upgrades and carbon fiber EPO2 rudders.The sails went through an upgrade in late 1990’s and are now made from higher quality cloth. The jib was also recut in 2000 to allow more mast rake. Since mast rake is a critical component of upwind performance, there have been many tweaks to all sorts of parts, from the mast step to the mainsheet boom bail, to the shroud length to increase mast rake.
Same source says something also about choosing used boat under topic What to Look Out For in a Used Boat:
Quote:
Hobie 16’s have been in production for 40 years and it is still common for find used boats on the market from the early 1970’s. As a general rule, “you get what you pay for” when shopping for a used boat. As a starting point when looking at a used boat you want to ensure it is a ‘complete boat’ with all it’s parts. Replacing major components that are missing (i.e. sails or mast) can be costly. Delamination of the hulls is the most common issue seen in very old hulls. Delamination leads to a wavy or spongy softness to the fiberglass. This is a serious problem that can lead to catestrophic hull failure if not addressed. Small areas of delamination can be repaired but a hull that has delamination over it’s entire length is generally not repairable. All wires and standing rigging should be carefully inspected and replaced if more than a few years old. If you intend to purchase a used boat to be used for racing, you will want a 320 lbs. boat. You should look for something manufactured since 1993. Fiberglass or carbon fiber rudders are a plus but can be obtained separately. Sail condition is a consideration. Typically the racing life of the sails is about five years but some replace their sails more frequently. The new style jib cut was introduced in 2000 and will allow you to carry more mast rake.
The most comprehensive guide for shopping a second hand catamaran have found so far, the
Ultimate Catamaran Buyers Guide writes about Hobie 16:
Quote:
Produced from about 1970 on. Large production numbers. Still being manufactured. Class racing is excellent. Boat weights were reduced in 1983 by changing the construction materials. Available in a variety of hull colors. Sails are available in a variety of colors. Mylar sails are now class legal. A comp-tip is required for persons wanting to race. Trampolines are typically made of vinyl.
Items to check on a prospective boat:
Right and left rear corner castings at trampoline supports often get cracks in them
Check to see that the mast is straight by sighting up it when the rig is stood. Look up the sail track.
Rudder cams should be in good working condition. You can test this by locking the rudder in the down position and tapping at the leading edge of the rudder with your foot. The rudder should not release until you give it a solid shot. The rudder should be easily brought in to the up position with the steering mechanism.
The spring that holds the rudder cam in place when locked down should be in good condition.
Push on the deck of the hull just in front of the front crossbar. If there is flex in the deck, this is probably not a good boat for you. This area is critical to the boats structure!
Look underneath the hulls to see if there is a lot of beach wear. If you can see the hull beneath the gelcoat paint, that is okay. If you can see fiberglass coming through the brown hull resin, the boat will need a $300 bottom job soon.
Check at the back of the boat where the rudders connect to the hull. The metal fastener housings are called gudgeons. If there is cracking around the gudgeons, the boat has probably had some problems when beaching. This can be a severe problem so look carefully at the back of the boat.
Look for worn wires on the mast. Look at the shrouds (side wires) forestay (front wire) and the trapeze wires for broken strands. Also check the bridle wires (very front, attach to bow) for broken strands. Ask the owner when he replaced the wires last. Most manuals suggest a five year maximum life for wires even if they have not been used.
Look for broken strands in the halyards (lines that pull up the sails).
Look at the sails for broken battens (solid pieces of fiberglass) in sail.
Look for tears in the sails.
Check the stiffness of the sail material. The newer the material, the stiffer the sail.
Trampoline condition. Tramp should have no tears or holes.
Look for areas of discoloration in the hulls. This may indicate a repair of some type.
Ask if the boat leaks. If so, how much in two hours. A few cups of water are okay, but half a gallon or more is unacceptable.
Look all around the hulls for gelcoat (paint) cracks. Sometimes this is okay, but if the area around the cracks is soft, walk away and look for another boat! Press on the decks with the palm of your hand and all of your weight.
Ask the owner of the boat to rig the boat with you the first time to make sure that all of the parts are there. Make sure that you look overhead before you stand the mast to make sure that there are no electrical or telephone wires you may hit. Once you have rigged the boat, actually get on the boat and pretend that you are tacking. Move the sails, the rudders, and anything else you would normally operate when sailing the boat.
Ask the owner why he is selling the boat. How long has it been on the market? Are you the original owner? When was the last time you were sailing on this boat.
Ask the owner what model year the boat is. Then go to the back of the boat on the right hull and look on the back of the boat. There will be a hull number that will end something like "M79L". This would indicate that the boat is a 1979 model. Make sure that the title that the owner gives to you has a VIN # (hull #) that matches the number on the boat. Make sure that the person you are speaking to owns the boat. They must own it outright with no "legal owner" listed. If there is a legal owner listed, you must make sure that the lien on the boat has been satisfied. Simply call the lienholder. Make sure that the person selling the boat is the singular owner and that there are not two names listed on the title. If there are two names, then the other person must also sign off and date their interest in the item. To be really sure that this boat is as it appears, contact you local DMV and County Accessors office. Have the Hull numbers for the boat and the VIN # for the trailer ready along with the owners full name and address.
Taxes and registration. Ask the owner if he has paid his county tax on the boat for the current year. Call DMV and make sure there are no outstanding parking tickets or other citations on the trailer. If the boat and trailer are out of date on registration, it could be very expensive to get the boat and trailer back to current. The certificate of non-operation slips are much more limiting than they used to be so call DMV to confirm you will not have to pay the additional registration fees and back penalties due.
If the owner no longer has or has misplaced the certificate of title(s), make sure you have them provide you with a "duplicate certificate of title" along with $14 per lost title to cover DMV fees and processing fees. Do not give payment in full for the boat until the title has been cleared with DMV!
What additional accessories come with the boat? Beach roller, lifejackets, harnesses, wetsuits or sailing gear, spare wires, pins, shackles? Extras are nice, but add no real value to what you should pay for a boat except for a cat box and beach roller. Does the trailer have a spare tire?
You must also get from the owner a "BILL OF SALE" which is a standard document available at the DMV. A home made version does not do the trick. When you arrive at the DMV with the bill of sale you will be assessed State of California Sales Tax based upon the amount paid for the boat and trailer. You must get separate bills of sale for the boat and trailer showing correct hull and trailer numbers. It is payable at the time of registration.
There are other things to check over and there is no way we can cover them all in this article. If you use this as a fundamental guide and some common sense, you can make a good purchase! Good luck and always wear your lifejacket!
Will try to study this wisdom to be more educated Hobie 16 buyer when seeing a beach catamaran first time ever tomorrow.
Sure the
Owners Manual will be helpful trying to learn about the vessel.