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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 3:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:05 am
Posts: 26
Location: Pompton Lakes, NJ
I'm currently in the process of adjusting the rake on my rudders (EPO2) on an "adjustable rudder castings" except the set screws are stuck so I had to take the rudders off of my boat to work on this. When I removed the rudders I noticed that there is a "neoprene" piece inside the rudder castings that makes contact with the leading edge of the rudder within the casting and covers the area where the Rudder Rake set screw would come through the casting and make contact with the rudder - I assume to prevent damage to the rudders when engaged. I don't see this part listed (Neoprene material on the insides of the rudder castings) on the Hobie part diagram so I wonder if this is common on all newer castings (I have a 2008)? Is this material supposed to be here when using the set screws? The material is about 3/16" of an inch thick.

I started to peel the "neoprene" material off the inside of the castings to see if the "Rudder Rake Adjuster screw" was popping through and they were not which leads me to believe that the current set screws are not doing anything to help with the rake and my rudders are currently rake forward as much as possible with current holes and the "neoprene" material.

Anyone have any suggestions for getting the rudder rake adjuster screws "unstuck"?

FYI

On my port rudder I have about 1/2" of rake and on the starboard rudder I have negative 1" (meaning that when I measure to the below link method there is ~1" gap between my tape measure and the leading edge of the rudder)

http://w1dm.com/11%20Winter%20Hotline%20TOH.pdf

Thanks for every ones help

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Jake C

2008 Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 5:07 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 3559
Location: Jersey Shore
The only thing the rudder rake screws are good for is punching a hole in the leading edge of your $500 rudders. Most racers use an alternative method for locking in the rudder rake. I’m guessing that’s what the neoprene is you’re seeing inside the casting. Another real good method is to wax the leading edge of the rudder and then smear marine tex putty in the lower area of the casting. Then lock the rudder down and let the putty cure. After it hardens, you will have a perfectly matched “seat” where the rudder contacts the casting.

Either way, forget about the set screw. Just file it smooth on the inside of the casting if it’s sticking out at all and then let it be.

sm


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PostPosted: Sun Aug 26, 2018 6:56 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:32 am
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Location: Lake Gaston, NC
I used to use Saran Wrap instead of wax. Also, I always set the rake for 16's at almost 1-1/2" but haven't done any of the later models of EPO's since the first ones. I had a set of gudgeons on the end of a workbench that were blocked out with a 2x board, and the rudders were set at boat assembly.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 7:18 am 
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Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2006 10:05 am
Posts: 26
Location: Pompton Lakes, NJ
Thanks for the replies. I like the ideas you have suggested. Upon further inspection of my rudders last week (I took apart my entire rudder assemble) I am going to have to fill and re-drill the current holes in them. Who ever initially drilled the holes has them misaligned from each other and are not aligned to the Hobie template.

I think with only a few weeks of sailing season left I will add this to my winter project list when I have my boat home on the trailer.

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Jake C

2008 Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 01, 2018 8:02 am 
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Joined: Sun Jun 21, 2009 7:32 am
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Location: Lake Gaston, NC
Drill the holes with a drill press.


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