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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 11:26 am 
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Question I have is where do you tie off the sheet with 6:1 conversion?
Add a pad eye/becket somewhere on the lower block?
Part? where?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 12:58 pm 
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I've seen it tied to the becket on one of the uppers, pad eye on the side of the upper block, and a pad eye opposite the cam cleat. I'm adding a pad eye to the opposite side of my cam cleat, similar to the harken 6:1, and cutting off the becket so that the blocks can pull closer together. Hopefully it works out, haven't gotten that far yet.


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 1:50 pm 
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I'm thinking I'd like to add a pad eye/ becket to the lower blocks (Seaway 5:1 ratcheting type converted to triple lower for 6:1) in such a way as to keep as low as possible.
Someone has done this, I'm sure. Would like to know how/where to add a pad eye/ becket?

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 1:53 pm 
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" I'm adding a pad eye to the opposite side of my cam cleat, similar to the harken 6:1, and cutting off the becket so that the blocks can pull closer together. "

Are you using the original Seaway 5:1 for the conversion?
I'm thinking the opposite side of the cam cleat has the rachet system .....

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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 3:16 pm 
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Catfan69 wrote:
" I'm adding a pad eye to the opposite side of my cam cleat, similar to the harken 6:1, and cutting off the becket so that the blocks can pull closer together. "

Are you using the original Seaway 5:1 for the conversion?
I'm thinking the opposite side of the cam cleat has the rachet system .....


Get some standoff bolts and connect a pad eye

https://www.mcmaster.com/standard-threaded-standoffs


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PostPosted: Thu Sep 06, 2018 3:41 pm 
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Very nice idea!
Thanks!

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2018 5:10 am 
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I ended up using longer bolts, and using nuts on the top & bottom of the pad eye to adjust the height in order to get above the ratchet (two nuts to pin the cam cleat down, and four nuts for the pad eye. One thing I didn't notice until I had it installed was that everything sits at an angle toward the ratchet/pulley, making things even more tight, although it does seem to work okay and no interference.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 8:45 am 
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Started conversion this morning.
I've seen others call for 3/16" bolts, mine needs 1/4".
Removed rivets had 1/4" shanks.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:36 am 
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Catfan69 wrote:
Started conversion this morning.
I've seen others call for 3/16" bolts, mine needs 1/4".
Removed rivets had 1/4" shanks.


Mine required 1/4" bolts. Be careful when pulling the pulleys apart. If the pulley separates, there are three tiny balls on each side of the pulley, around the perimeter. They are just laying in holes. I suspect they are just used as spacers between the sheave and the housing to keep from rubbing. Those little things will fall out and magically disappear. Not sure that they actually do much, but I tried to keep mine in.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 11:02 am 
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Location: Bristol, IN
On a side note, due to the extra rake, my jib no longer works well, too much slack in the leech. I've got the flamer (1975) with the single hole clew plate. It needs some minor repairs, trying to decide if I should re-cut the sail to better match the newer shape and add a new clew plate, or just buy a newer sail. I can re-work the sail for free...


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:59 pm 
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Mines an 84, 5 hole clew plate......
We'll see...

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