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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 10:51 am 
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Joined: Tue Aug 28, 2018 5:28 pm
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I will be replacing starboard hull on my 1990 16 with another hull that I'm currently repairing delam. (Hard to believe but the 83 hull is in better shape than the 90 hull. UGH)

So, I have heard and read horror stories about removing the hull. What can I expect and what is the best method to remove the hull after the bolt is removed?
Pics and video links would be so very helpful.
Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:15 pm 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
I would start by whacking the castings with a dead blow hammer. Do a little at a time on each casting so the frame moves up evenly and doesn't bind.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:51 pm 
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Speaking of hull removal, I've been thinking of how racers trade up boats every so-often to new models. I was wondering if it might be easy to just replace the hulls every like, 10 years, or something? Or, is it really THAT hard to remove all the glue etc.?

Maybe they just think it's easier to just buy a new boat and sell the old. Not sure. It's just an idea I've had and was wondering about it.


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2018 2:14 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
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Location: Oceanside, California
Hulls are the least important in a new boat. The stiffness of the frame connections and new sails are very important.

Dead Blow hammer (heaviest you can get).

Loosen or remove trampoline ease and binding of the frame to hulls.

Swing in an arc from low to high hitting the underside of the castings. Strong arm and significant blows required typically, but some are easier. Do not hit the hull lip (or your own forehead! One of my buddies did that!). Maybe a thin sheet of plywood can prevent you from hitting the hull?

As noted... one corner at a time and likely for and aft on one side only to start. You can tip the tramp frame up and hold with a 2x4 to pull the old hull out and slide the new one in. Lightly tap the frame on the new hull. Do the other side.

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 2:34 pm 
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Could not have gone better or easier! Bolts were not fused and pylons and castings were not fused either! Thanks be to God that it was easy. (Although I was attacked by ants that love the pylons!)


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PostPosted: Fri Sep 14, 2018 5:13 pm 
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So true, when I first bought my ‘83, ants would be coming out of one of the pylons after a sail.


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:31 pm 
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Replaced hull today. Now the bolt holes not lining up. It’s not lining up horizontally. There just is no wiggle room. I’m confused for sure. Hull is an 83 going on a 1990 tramp frame. Did they ever change hole placement?


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PostPosted: Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Sep 15, 2014 12:34 pm
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Location: Hartland, WI
I have found that the holes in the castings are not done with any precision. So when you take a frame from one boat to another the holes in the pylons won't line up. What I have done is to scribe on the pylons were the hole should be. It may only be off a bit. Then raise the castings back up off the pylon enough to work on the pylon holes. On 14s I'll put the bolt in place so the castings will not slip down, yet the casting is still sitting on the pylon. Then using a rat tail file or powered bit you can move the hole to fit the casting.

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83 yellow/ white decks Hobie 14 Corando turbo
82 yellow hulls Hobie 16 Cat Fever
84 yellow hulls hobie 16 Yellow Nationals
plus a few extras that I'm restoring


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:03 am 
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JKK,
Thanks, very helpful. I had already kinda determined to get the drill bit out, drill in to the pylons to make the hole, fit and tighten the bolt and go sail the dang thing. After tapping down the casting on to the replacement hull I just don't see it going anywhere for a long time!

I do think it is crazy that the holes don't line up. Seems like they should with the way that aft notch rides in the pylon groove as you insert the pylon.


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