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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 5:56 pm 
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Joined: Thu May 17, 2018 5:24 pm
Posts: 225
Location: New Hampshire
I know the mast step link I have was bent when I got it. I took it off and straightened it as well as possible. When I went to step the mast tonight It was fine putting it up but when I went to take it down I couldn't get the 1/4" diameter pin to go through the mast. It would go through one side into the mast but no matter how I moved the mast( Pulled on the forestay, loosened the forestay)I could not get the 1/4" pin in. I luckily had recently bought a 16 pin kit and it had a tapered long 3/16" pin in it that I think is intended for the mast link anyways. I used it and managed to get the mast down.

My question is, Is a 1/4" pin supposed to fit in the top and bottom holes on the mast step link or is it intended to use a 3/16" pin? It seems with the 3/16" pin the link is pretty floppy.

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84 14T Redline #67 Blue Hawaii faded but still working!
82 Yellow hull16 '81 Boomer nationals 20.9 on GPS
83 White hull 16 No sails "Clean and Purty Now!"
87 White hull no sails no tramp


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 17, 2018 8:40 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 02, 2018 7:46 am
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I wouldn’t get hung up about getting something in there that fits perfect. So long as the material has a greater sheer strength than the upward force applied by the mass you are good to go. On the Joyrider TV rigging episode they use a repurposed screwdriver instead of the pin. I bet even the cheapest Hazard Fraught screwdriver can withstand the sheer force when the fulcrum(your hand or shoulder) is 5 feet away from the mast step link.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 2:54 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
I agree, a sloppy fit is preferred or you will be struggling with the pin constantly.

Many folks have used screw drivers as mast step pins. The handle makes it easier to line up, insert, and remove.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 5:31 am 
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Joined: Thu May 17, 2018 5:24 pm
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Location: New Hampshire
Ok thanks for the replies.
I might be a bit ocd. I found a 1/4" pin fit nice and I figured everything being snug was better but last night it took me forever to get the mast down due to the flying hypo's and the 1/4" pin NOT aligning on the top.

At one point I looked at my arm and there were 6 mosquitos on my arm! Must remember to get off the lake BEFORE it gets dark now! But it won't matter in a couple weeks.

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84 14T Redline #67 Blue Hawaii faded but still working!
82 Yellow hull16 '81 Boomer nationals 20.9 on GPS
83 White hull 16 No sails "Clean and Purty Now!"
87 White hull no sails no tramp


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:41 am 
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 1:33 pm
Posts: 223
Location: Southern California
The problem is mainly when bringing down the mast the holes marked do not align as the mast is raked back.

For the H16, it is important to use the hole marked 16 when raising the mast.

When lowering the mast use either 14 or 16, whichever is easier. When lowering the mast, you are not trying to align the mast base to the cup, so it does not matter.

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1983 Hobie 16 Hawiian Sunset (sold)
1981 Hobie 16 Tequilla Sunrise - still own
2008 Hobie 16 (currently sailing the crap out of this boat)
1977 Super Sunfish
Founding member of the "San Dimas Yacht Club"
John


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2018 7:47 am 
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Joined: Fri Oct 17, 2008 2:21 pm
Posts: 379
Location: Winston Salem, NC
The pin can sometimes be difficult to remove which is why they use screwdrivers. It gives a better grip. One trick for making the pin easier to remove (and might help line the holes up to insert it) is to pull on the forestay. I helped someone who couldn't remove the pin after the mast was up and all I did was pull on the forestay and the pin came right out.

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