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 Post subject: Jib Halyard / Eyestrap
PostPosted: Wed Jul 14, 2021 9:05 am 
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Joined: Mon Sep 14, 2015 6:58 pm
Posts: 25
For those that put an eyestrap on the mast to tidy up the jib halyard - how far down do you put it? Murrays says 18inches but that doesnt seem low enough.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 17, 2021 7:16 pm 
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It may depend in part on the age of your boat and accessories. My boat is an '82 16 with all aluminum mast and no aussie jib. All original. With that my clips for main and jib were installed at 42 inches as measured from the bottom most edge of the tang to the center of the clip. Mine are the older type so they are not shaped like the newer ones, but should work the same. I believe mine may not be as strong as the new ones but have held up so far. We will see soon enough as my boat is almost ready to get on the water after sitting in my backyard for decades. I have spent a LOT replacing just about everything.

Anyhow, hopefully that helps.

Randy


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 28, 2021 11:44 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 10:33 am
Posts: 686
Location: Clinton, Mississippi
A little late, but I was just now able to measure om my 2008 H16. My eyestrap is just under 80 inches below the bottom of the mast tang. These numbers are all over the place!

I can't remember....is it the top batten or the next one down that gets hung the most/worst? I'd put it near that one...maybe a little further down.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 13, 2021 6:33 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 493
Location: Clearwater, FL
I have the Halyard Grips (Hobie part #114) on both my jib and main halyards on my (no Aussie) 84H16 all aluminum mast. The center of each grip is 70" below the lowest point of the mast tang. This location is several inches above where the jib's top batten would hit the mast/halyards. I placed mine as far back as I could on the mast without drilling into the main sail's mast luff track. I also use the "Super Jib Battens" (Hobie part #122). Since I normally sail solo, the halyard grips and super jib battens have eliminated the problem of my jib getting hung up on the mast or halyards when tacking, etc. especially in lighter winds.

Recently I solo sailed (Vassiliki Bay, Greece) a lot newer European H16 with the Aussie jib halyard coming down the front of the mast. It was a pain in the butt since the jib's batten leech caps/strings kept getting caught on it.

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
Image


Last edited by Tim H16 on Thu Oct 14, 2021 7:53 am, edited 3 times in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 3:20 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 01, 2020 2:13 pm
Posts: 107
Location: Conway, New Hampshire
Hobie part #122 is discontinued. Murrays has a replacement for it, part # 30-0122

What are the differences in this model and the fiberglass version? I don't race the old girl, just having fun learning to sail.

I have the same issue of sailing solo and the jib getting hung up on my "85 H16 requiring me to stand and release the battens. Mid and upper ones mostly.

Has the jib sail pattern been cut different over the years? Maybe my battens are too long now with the increased rake of mast?
If so, with shrouds and forestay also different lengths to accommodate the increasing rake over the years, would this affect the issue negatively?

I have now purchased an unused, new in box Hobie jib sail from 2000 vintage (cheap) to replace my original '85. Will my original battens need to be cut for different sail dimensions to minimize this issue?
Thoughts??

Thanks everyone in advance

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'89 H14 'Jaws'
'85 H16


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 10:30 am 
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Joined: Sun Dec 23, 2007 1:20 pm
Posts: 493
Location: Clearwater, FL
Some Hobie dealers may still have a set of the Hobie #122 Super Jib Battens still in stock. If not, I am glad to see that Murrays still carries them as #30-0122.

Both the regular jib battens and the super jib battens are made of fiberglass. The super jib battens are thinner (width and thickness) so they flex more.

With new super/flex jib battens, they will probably need to be shortened so the batten end caps just barely extend past the jib's leech (this will help minimize hang ups, check out the super jib batten leech end caps on the attached picture).

Last fall, on my 84H16, I replaced my Hobie 1987 Blue Prism sails with new Hobie 2020 Tortola sails. I was able to move my previous super jib battens and regular main sail battens over to the new sails with no problem.

Don't forget that adding jib and main halyard grips (#114) will prevent the leech ends of your jib battens from getting caught on the jib and/or main halyards.

On the attached photo, you can also see the placement of my jib halyard grip on the port side of the mast (about where the chartreuse and orange colors meet)

Image

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Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL
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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2021 3:09 am 
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Joined: Mon May 24, 2004 10:33 am
Posts: 686
Location: Clinton, Mississippi
A few more observations....
The stock jib battens can be tapered to make them more flexible (class legal for racing....I used a belt sander).
Once the mainsail is hooked in, route the bitter end of the main halyard back behind the shrouds/trap wires before cleating it off. Routed this way, I've never felt the need for a halyard hook/eyestrap on that side.
The jib tack should be pinned as low as possible at the bridle without going block to block on the jib blocks (and there are ways to reduce that stack height). This moves the jib slightly forward and helps keep the slot open at the top.

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Jerome Vaughan
Hobie 16


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