Mast step gap

Hi there I’m new to the Hobie lifestyle and I love it , my question is
My mast step is 1/8 inch off the Cross bar I rivet the front part of it down with two stainless steel rivets
And I you put in two stainless steel bolts to hold the back end down but I can’t get it any closer to the
cards bar , is this ok ? It seems to be selling just fine , Any information be helpful thank you PS how do
you post pictures? I was trying to put one I took of the massed up but I can’t get it on here

Posting Images FAQ: https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=8574

H16 Mast Step Replacement instruction may give you ideas: https://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=18&t=58251

_________________
Matt Miller
Former - Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA
(Retired 11/7/2022)

It would appear that something has loosened over time, but the dolphin striker and post (very misleading name...) are what support the mast. the cross beam only stabilizes the mast from side to side and front to back.

You may have to do some minor filing to get your mast step to fit flush to the top of the front cross beam when it is clamped prior to riveting.

The three spots that may require some filing are:
1) the top hole in the front cross beam (where the dolphin striker post comes thru) may need to be elongated.
2) the mast step's rear lip (that curls over the back edge of the crossbeam) may need to have some material removed from the front side of this lip.
3) the back edge (tramp track) of the cross beam may need to be filed down some so the mast step's rear lip will fit over it.

If you follow Matt's instructions and use SS rivets in new holes drilled thru solid metal of the mast step and top of the cross beam you won't need to use screws or bolts.

_________________
Tim
84 H16
82 H16
87 H14T
Tortola Sails: 115222
Blue Prism Sails: 88863
Clearwater, FL

If the step is not sitting perfectly flush with the crossbar, you can “bed” the step using epoxy. I did this a few years ago on a Hobie 18 mast step and it worked well. I used grey Marine Tex (reinforced epoxy putty). I used masking tape to protect the exposed surface of the crossbar, then applied Marine Tex to the bottom of the step, inserted the step into the crossbar and pulled the rivets about 90% of the way tight, pulled off the masking tape to remove the epoxy that squeezed out, then let the epoxy cure. After it cured, I pulled the rivets the last bit so they popped.

sm

I’ve got a related question… I replaced my mast step on my 2002 with the new style. At the time it seemed flush, and I popped the rivets. In looking at it now, the aft “hook” and the front are flush but for the majority of the step that is on top of the crossbar, there is about a 1mm gap (you can slide a business card under the step without interference except where the aft hook sits, the front part sits, and the dolphin striker is). It looks like the front part of the mast step is bottoming out on the cross bar that is preventing a fully-flush seating on the cross bar.

My thoughts are (and I’d like the expert’s views)
1. Leave it alone and assume there’s enough support at the aft hook, dolphin striker, and the front of the step where it meets the cross bar
2. Drill out the rivets and file the back side (underside) of the front of the step to let it sit about 1MM lower with the hope this gets a full seat on top of cross bar (also assume the rivet holes should more or less be Ok without having to redrill); or
3. Drill out the rivets and maybe open up the dolphin striker hole in the cross bar with the assumption that the current dolphin striker hole is causing the step to sit a bit too far aft. Again would hope the rivet holes would still be ok.

My biggest questions being would option 1 be strong enough and if not, is there likely to be a problem with using the existing rivet holes when seating the step more fully?

Thoughts?

Thanks, Daniel

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H16 2002 "Islands" Sail No. 107432