I have just done this conversion to mine and instead of using rivets I have used riv nuts

The Hobie parts list shows using part# 8010201 rivets for the rear traveler track. This is twenty 3/16" x 3/8" CSK SS rivets (CCC 6-6).
You can get these rivets from your Hobie dealer, Murrays, Grainger, Fastenal, McMaster Carr.

For other parts like the padeye and pad for cam cleat, etc. go to Murrays four page interactive H14/H16 Parts Guide. You can click on any part and it will take you to the correct description and additional recommended items like rivets and screws. It also includes a table of all the rivets for your boat.
https://www.murrays.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/09/Hobie-14-16-parts.pdf

That is very helpful information. I can tell that the end of track on boat that I am trying to upgrade the traveler on has been riveted with different rivets as the rivet heads are slightly taller and larger in diameter. I had read these needed to be countersunk rivets. I haven't dealt with Murrays before but they have an impressive looking website.

If the nosepiece of your rivet pulling tool will not fit all the way down to the bottom of the traveler track you can put some small nuts on the rivet's mandrel (the disposable part that the rivet gun grips) to make it work.

I like to use the Marson Model VHR-2 M79032 Heavy Duty Hand Riveter.

I found one of these for $80. After setting some with a cheap tool I think it will be money well spent if they are easy to set.

The traveler track and crossbar wall are each about 1/8” thick, so you will need rivets with a grip length of at least 1/4”. I generally purchase rivets that are about 1/2” overall length for general use. The extra length is typically not a problem, you will just need to do a few extra pumps on your rivet gun. For the traveler track you will need to purchase countersunk head rivets. I find McMaster Carr is a good source if you want to purchase larger quantities of rivets.

Good to know, I use them for parts quite often. I am still nervous and insecure about getting the correct stuff, not having enough first hand experience with what is correct. I have never done much riveting except for small blind rivets like used on gutters and sheet metal.

The Harbor Freight heavy duty rivet gun has served me well for 10+ years of intermittent use. It is capable of pulling stainless steel rivets which are otherwise very difficult to pull with a basic hardware store rivet tool.
I have looked at a Harbor Freight close by and not found anything but the standard hardware store rivet gun.

Yes, it is easy enough to cut a spacer from some steel with correct dimensions to fit inside the channel and long enough to get on top of the track. I had tried stacking small nuts and washers one time and kept dropping pieces in the grass. I guess you learn to work over a sheet or tarp so it is easier to find stuff when you drop it

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I had wondered if anyone had done that. I recently purchased a Marson Nut Setter M34606 Kit for a job I was working on and it crossed my mind if it would work on my boats. I have trouble with cleats on a couple of my masts and had considered it for this. A replacement cleat was included with one boat but the holes didn't line up correctly. This older boat may have different cleats than the standard mid 80's boats. The hole spacing was about 1/8" off. I didn't like the idea of trying to slot holes in the mast and the plastic cleat looked like it would be weakened by slotting those holes. This was for the downhaul.

The entire track would need to be removed if wanting to add them on one end to allow easier removal of the traveler car.

I have just done this conversion to mine and instead of using rivets I have used riv nuts