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Converting old Seaway blocks to low profile
http://www.hobie.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=7964
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Author:  Bommer [ Fri Oct 05, 2007 7:17 am ]
Post subject:  almost done

ALMOST FINISHED, Pics tonight!

Author:  skipper0802 [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 10:49 am ]
Post subject: 

Here's my version on coverting the old 5:1 Seaways:

Before-
Image

After (6:1 purchase)-
Image

Close up-
Image

All SS parts. I bought an old 3" double for the lower block. The existing 2-1/4" block was tossed in the parts bin. Substantially less than new Harken goodies. Of course, if I had mucho $$ I would have bought the nice gear. Email me if you want extra pics or info. skipper08022000 at yahoo dot com

Is it the weekend yet? I want to try this out!

Enjoy

Author:  MBounds [ Fri Oct 26, 2007 6:34 pm ]
Post subject: 

Few things you can do to further minimize the stack-up:

- cut the becket off the upper block
- get rid of the shackle at the bottom.
- get rid of the shackle used as a becket - use an eystrap above the cleat to dead end the line.
- reeve the blocks like is shown in the Hobie Catalog. The upper block is turned 90 degrees from the lower.

Author:  skipper0802 [ Sat Oct 27, 2007 12:03 pm ]
Post subject: 

Matt,
Thanks for the tips! I'll incorporate them soonest!

Author:  rdrider04 [ Mon Jun 30, 2008 2:54 pm ]
Post subject:  Looking for parts to finish my conversion

Hey all,
In response to a previous post about doing the seaway 5:1 low profile conversion ala Roy Tally @
http://www.thebeachcats.com/OnTheWire/w ... /tip57.htm
I am currently in the process of performing this conversion and it has gone pretty well. I would recommend maybe using a slightly smaller bit than the 3/8th" recommended because if you're not extremely careful, you can round out the holes in the metal side plates without even completely drilling out the stainless pins. Drilling these are a real biatch too so a harder bit might help.
Other than that, it has been pretty good.
I wonder if I could get an extra stock seaway 2.25" block so I could do full 6:1 from older hardware instead of just a 5:1 without spending a bunch of cash. I found a couple complete sets online but I am really just interested in one single block in decent condition. I will be rebuilding it anyway. I bet someone has one they would part with for peanuts.

Thanks and let me know your stories about this conversion,
I have also seen some other takes on it at http://www.hobiecat.com/community/viewt ... df673a0e0a

Thanks,
Orion

Author:  snetram [ Wed Jun 03, 2009 8:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Converting old Seaway blocks to low profile

I just performed this conversion and would like to convert my double block to a triple to make it 6:1. It would be simple to do except for the metal piece at the top where you would pin the shackle. You can't use the one from the double block because it is fitted only for two blocks. Anybody have any suggestions?

Author:  jack swift [ Mon Jun 22, 2009 11:30 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Converting old Seaway blocks to low profile

i'm just getting ready to convert my 5:1 seaways to low profile and the instructions say "must pivot" mbounds says "reeve"
so naturally i have questions;

1st... how exactly does reeving shorten the over all height?

2nd... does that mean no swivel pin/shackle ( that would save me dissasembling the double block to bore pin clearance)

3rd...do you only reeve 6:1 systems?
if so i apologize for wasting your time.

Author:  MBounds [ Mon Jun 22, 2009 2:14 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Converting old Seaway blocks to low profile

"to reeve" or "reeving" is a verb used to describe the act of "lacing" the mainsheet line through the blocks.

The objective is to have the blocks touch when the mainsheet is pulled as tight as possible - no twists or lines crossing over each other. This is achieved when the turning axes of the blocks are 90 degrees from each other.

Image

Author:  jack swift [ Wed Jun 24, 2009 10:19 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Converting old Seaway blocks to low profile

thnks for setting me straight.
i dideverything last night and didn't bother to make the upper block swivel.
so we'll see how crucial that "must" is? :wink:

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