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 Post subject: Storage on trailer
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 10:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:55 pm
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I want to store my Outback on the top rack of a Yakima Easy Rider trailer. I am currently living in southern CA where it gets very hot. I intend to use covers to protect from UV. No, I don't have any other storage option but outdoors on the trailer.

I'm looking for the method that causes the least damage/distortion to the hull while still making it easy to load/unload. I use the boat 2-3 times a week, so it can't be too much hassle.

Here are the options I have considered. I'm interested in opinions of them. Or any others you all might want to suggest.

1. Bunks. I was considering 1-1/4" PVC with a 1" galvanized steel core so they don't sag. Spaced to match the grooves that run along the bottom of the boat. I actually hope this is the best method because it would be easiest to load and unload by myself. Just lift the bow onto the rear of the bunks, pickup the stern of the kayak and slide it on.

2. Yakima kayak saddles. Big Catch is the model, I think. Expensive and I don't think I can slide the boat onto them because of the taper from the bow.

3. Bottom up on the trailer crossbars. Seems very difficult to load/unload by myself. I'd prefer a method that loads/unloads from the rear as my usual launching beach is sometimes crowded up with rental boats and other kayakers. I am currently transporting it on crossbars on top of my truck and that requires almost an entire vehicle space next to me for loading/unloading. It is also difficult for an old guy like me.

Thanks!

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Brian Godfrey
kayakingforthebirds.org


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 Post subject: Re: Storage on trailer
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 2:09 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 171
Option 3 is the Hobie recommended method and least likely to do any damage to the hull. But, as you note, it is also the most inconvenient.

For Option 1, search the forums as there are many discussions on the best diameter and type of PVC to use. Many use 2”, I used 3” schedule 40 for my Oasis. You also want PVC with high UV protection. I would NOT use any steel core or stiffener inside. Let the PVC bend and contort to more evenly disperse the load. Though some forum users have reported hull distortion with PVC bunks, most like me have had no issues even after many years and miles.

Peter


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 Post subject: Re: Storage on trailer
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 2:24 pm 
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Joined: Mon Oct 01, 2012 7:55 pm
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So if I use PVC, it will be cantilevered out from the end of the trailer. That shouldn't be any problem when the boat is on the trailer, but what about loading? If the PVC is cantilevered out 2.5 feet and I lift the bow of the boat out of the water and set it on the PVC, won't it spread sideways or even break? PVC isn't all that strong.

What if I used the steel pipe core and a spread it to put the right curve to match it to the hull?

Or what if I nested a smaller PVC pipe inside of a larger one where it cantilevers?

Is the desired springiness intended to help the fit of the boat to the bunks or is it to help protect the boat from road bumps? The trailer has coil springs and shock absorbers. It will also be loaded close to GVWR so the springs will actually be working and I think it will be as soft a ride as I could hope for.

Thanks.

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Brian Godfrey
kayakingforthebirds.org


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 Post subject: Re: Storage on trailer
PostPosted: Sat Oct 31, 2020 5:02 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 171
The photos below show my bow roller at the back for loading and unloading, and another brace at the front for shaping. The PVC flex is intended to provide more contact area between the pipe and kayak to distribute the load so the hull doesn’t distort. Do search the forums as there are many ideas, discussions, photos, and explanations on trailer setup with pvc bunks.

Peter

Image

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 Post subject: Re: Storage on trailer
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 8:41 am 
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Joined: Mon Jun 01, 2020 3:25 pm
Posts: 5
Do like I did and bite the bullet. Buy the Hobie cradles that are made for your kayak. It slides on and off easy and you can haul your boat right side up. They are expensive, but I fish alone and putting my Outback on my top cross bars upside down was just too much for me.


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 Post subject: Re: Storage on trailer
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 13891
Location: Oceanside, California
That is not a good solution unless it bends to the bottom shape and spreads the load over the length. Point loading the scupper areas will push the hull up and then translates into the cockpit floor pushing up.

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
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Hobie Cat USA


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 Post subject: Re: Storage on trailer
PostPosted: Thu Nov 19, 2020 4:48 pm 
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Joined: Fri Dec 01, 2006 1:38 pm
Posts: 171
mmiller wrote:
That is not a good solution unless it bends to the bottom shape and spreads the load over the length. Point loading the scupper areas will push the hull up and then translates into the cockpit floor pushing up.


My Oasis has been stored and trailered this way for several years now. The PVC does bend and the load is distributed well throughout the supported length and there is no deformation of the hull. The scupper cart inserts in the hull do not make contact with 3” PVC as they do with 2”, at least on the Oasis and Outfitter kayaks. I did remove the seat manual drains as they would obviously make contact, though others have just notched their PVC at those locations. Using cradles was not an option as Hobie does not sell a set designed for an Oasis or that supports it well.

I can say that after resisting PVC bunks for a couple years, launching and retrieving the kayak is so much easier this way versus an upside down kayak.

Peter


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 Post subject: Re: Storage on trailer
PostPosted: Fri Nov 20, 2020 9:31 am 
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Joined: Tue May 27, 2003 12:44 pm
Posts: 13891
Location: Oceanside, California
The second important point is the tie-down straps used. Ratchet straps can place a load on the rails forcing them down while the bottom is pushed up. Be aware of this constant load as it can distort the hull. Release straps when not transporting / while stored. Use the minimum tension required to hold the boat down. Use additional ties to lock the load from moving fore and aft. Like dock lines... "spring lines" run at diagonals and do not require tension to hold a boat in position on a dock.

Cold flow is what happens with a constant load. Say, bow and stern handles. You can carry a boat by these, but if you hang a boat by them, the hull can fail at the load points over time.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Creep_(deformation)

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Matt Miller
Director of Parts and Accessory Sales
Warranty and Technical Support
Hobie Cat USA


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