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Removing it is pretty simple - just be careful not to let the board drop on the ground.
On the centerboard control line, untie the knot that holds the handle on. Remove the handle.
With the boat on the trailer (or the hull propped up high enough), slowly lower the centerboard all the way down, past where the handle was. If the line is going to disappear down the hole, support the centerboard with your hands to keep it from falling.
Eventually, the board will get low enough that the spring falls out - then you can unhook the board from the pivot bar and remove it.
While the board is out, inspect the hook for cracking and replace the control lines if they're over a year or two old.
Re-installing the board is a bit trickier. Use a stiff line or length of wire to fish the control line up through the hole in the deck. I typically lower a piece of line through the hole, tape it to the control line, then pull it back up.
Once you've got the control line run, hook the board back on it's pivot and slip the spring in place - make sure that the spring is as far forward as it can go, so it engages into the pocket that's molded into the trunk. As you raise the board (take up the slack in the control line), you'll hear the spring snap into place.
Once the board is in place, you can adjust the position of the knots on the line for full up (tough to get the board fully retracted - usually about 1" protrudes from the hull) and full down - about 12 1/2 inches from full up to the part of the handle that won't fit in the hole. If you can see the notch at the trailing edge of the board, then it's too long.
It's important to get the full-down adjustment correct - there's a hump on the board that lines up with a lateral reinforcement piece in the hull when the board is properly adjusted - too far down and the board can twist sideways and punch through the wall of the centerboard trunk.
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