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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:30 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 4:21 am
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Location: The Netherlands
I think the plywood behind the stern is rotten. I can feel soaked wood threw the drain plug.
Did anyone do this repair?
I also noticed that an other 17 has cracks near the drain plug. Perhaps the soaked plywood is causing trouble because it is expanding.
Is behind the plywood an aluminium plate?


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 16, 2014 10:46 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
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Location: Detroit, MI
There is an aluminum plate behind the gudgeon area on the transom. That's what the gudgeon screws thread into.

Unless there is significant exterior damage to the transom, I would leave it alone. It is a major repair and requires a deck port and very good fiberglass skills.

If the wet plywood you can feel inside the drain plug bothers you, remove the drain plug housing, let the area dry completely (leave in the sun for a few days), then smear thickened epoxy resin around the inside of the hole with your finger (use latex or nitrile gloves). You may have to file it down a bit to reinstall the drain plug housing.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 3:29 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
Install a 5" diameter access port behind the rear crossbar to increase ventilation. Then drill a series of 1/4" diameter thru-holes in the transom all around the soaked area (inspect the moisture of the wood chips that are removed), cover the boat (or store inside), remove the access port cover and put a small fan in the boat for a few weeks to get it dried out. Then after it's dry, come back and fill in all the holes with thickened epoxy (West six10). That's probably the easiest solution, especially when compared to ripping apart the whole transom.

The access port will also let you have a better view of what's actually going on and doing additional repairs if necessary.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 5:59 am 
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Thanks!
Ordered inspection ports and let it all dry before make any action if necessary.


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PostPosted: Wed Dec 17, 2014 7:03 pm 
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Location: BC, Canada
Don't go close to the cross-bar. There is a styrofoam block under, you will have to chip away. My port is about 3" away from the wing socket. This way you will avoid most of the block.

I have hard time believing you have rotten plywood at the transom. If there was no access port made, there should be no materials other than from the original build, which does not include wood. Once you have the port installed, you will be in better position to examine the issue some more. The port will also allow you to dry the styrofoam block, which is likely to be waterlogged.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 18, 2014 3:28 am 
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Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 4:21 am
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Location: The Netherlands
Thanks again for this usefull advice!


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 12:05 am 
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Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 12:15 am
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Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
I two have the swollen nipple under the lower gudgeon on the 17 I'm working on and my buddy had complete corrosion of the stainless plate and plywood had dryrot. He already had a port due to the rack socket repair he had done so he completely cut out the whole stern and found the stainless plate was no more just corroded powder and the plywood had swelled to 3/4" thick (originally 1/2" thick). rebuilt the stern and fiberglassed it back on.

I can catch it with just swelling under the lower gudgeon so I'll try a combination of Matt's and SRM's repair solutions.
Thanks for bringing this issue up.

Has anyone tried soaking the plywood with acetone to dry it out?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 05, 2015 3:59 pm 
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Location: The Netherlands
It wasn't worth the panic I think...
You can see the drain opening and the gudgeon screws in the aluminium plate.
Looks okay to me.
Image

And finished...easy job..
Image


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