Return to Hobie.com
Hobie Forums
It is currently Wed Aug 21, 2019 3:33 am

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 5:18 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 3678
Location: Jersey Shore
Matt, any issues with the board wanting to split at the seam when you drilled it?

sm


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 6:32 am 
Offline
Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5173
Location: Detroit, MI
I was very careful not to allow any sideways (splitting) pressure on the hook:

1. Use a Dremel tool to create a flat area to start the drill bit on.
2. Use a brad-point drill bit:
Image
3. Work slowly and clear the shavings frequently.

I already had the brad-point bits, but in lieu of them you could use regular bits and just start small (3/16") and work up to 3/8". Trying to drill that hole all at once with a big regular bit would be difficult at best - without a pilot hole, it will want to wander and it puts outward pressure on the material.

And the tip about the golf club shafts is stellar. I wish I had thought of that before ordering from McMaster-Carr (3/8" x 12" carbon/epoxy rods are $18 - enough to do three centerboards)


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Thu Jan 08, 2015 7:54 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Mon Sep 12, 2011 7:28 pm
Posts: 265
Location: BC, Canada
MBounds wrote:
And the tip about the golf club shafts is stellar. I wish I had thought of that before ordering from McMaster-Carr (3/8" x 12" carbon/epoxy rods are $18 - enough to do three centerboards)


I've got a good deal on carbon rod from these guys,
https://goodwinds.com/

I've done this repair for both of my centerboards. This was pretty easy job. One modification to the original procedure was drilling small hole (1/16") at the end of the shaft and centerboard side. This is to allow air and excess resin to escape without modifications to the actual rod. Now, the hole is plugged and you can't even see were it was.

One more observation. One have to be very generous with the amount of epoxy applied. The foam absorbs a lot of resin, more than you normally would need to glue a rod into a solid material.

_________________
H17
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 8:45 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 4:21 am
Posts: 25
Location: The Netherlands
I am gonna try this next season.
Hope it will last a while.
if not, I will do the trick with the carbon rod.
Have to sand it for the daggerboard beauty contest...
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sat Jan 10, 2015 9:53 am 
Offline
Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5173
Location: Detroit, MI
I'd work on getting those screws flush. The spring slides on that part of the board.

Make sure they go up/down without any interference or weird noises (like crunching fiberglass) before you put the boat in the water. The fiberglass over the head of the spring is notoriously thin and has a tendency to crack - letting in a lot of water.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2015 1:06 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 4:21 am
Posts: 25
Location: The Netherlands
I will make those screws flush....
And then I will test it if it gives no problems in moving it.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jan 13, 2015 6:00 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Apr 19, 2012 12:15 am
Posts: 104
Location: Kaneohe, Hawaii
Wolverine,
I'm following your steps and have drilled out the centerboards (started with a small bit and worked my way up). Now waiting for the carbon rod from McMaster Carr to arrive. Thanks for the "this old Hobie" article!


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Wed Jan 21, 2015 9:58 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 4:21 am
Posts: 25
Location: The Netherlands
I tested the fitting and movement of the daggerboard after my repair without flushing the screws yet....
It fits perfectly.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Sun Jan 25, 2015 4:18 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Wed Dec 24, 2014 9:47 am
Posts: 12
Here are my dagger boards prepared for epoxy. The driver shaft pieces fit great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEgjU2gxlaU

Here are what they looked like after the initial epoxy application.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hGswXdS-r84


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 7:13 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Thu Nov 27, 2014 4:21 am
Posts: 25
Location: The Netherlands
After a season in salt water....still okay.
Only some rust on the stainless steel.
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group