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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 6:48 am 
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Joined: Thu Jan 12, 2017 6:45 am
Posts: 19
A friend was sailing his 17 over the weekend in 20-30kts winds. He sends me this photo. Any know causes of this and/or how to repair it. I've personally never owned or sailed a 17. I notice that it appears to be the same as the H16 shroud anchor pin and backer bar. Seems that the angle is wrong and yes I know the way he has it connected is not OEM. Ideas?

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Hf5kDy ... sp=sharing

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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC


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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 9:23 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 4176
Location: Jersey Shore
Any other pictures?

Hard to tell exactly what happened from the picture, but my guess is he's using bridle wires that are too short and they caused too much inward load on the attachment resulting in this failure. The stock bridle wires are very long (roughly 10 feet each), so there is very little inward load on the hull.

If you're going to use shorter bridles on a Hobie 17 (for example if you want to install a jib), then you need to use a spreader bar. He's probably lucky he didn't snap off the bow...

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PostPosted: Tue May 29, 2018 6:41 pm 
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He didn't send any other pics. Talked to him a bit more. The boat does have a jib and a furler. I think you are correct that the bridles are too short thus taking way to much side load resulting in tear out. He definitely needs the spreader bar for this setup.

Here are the standard lengths. He'll be checking against these.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QGT-L4 ... sp=sharing

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Hobie 16 (3 formerly)
MacGregor 25 (formerly)
Chrysler Dagger 14 (formerly)
NACRA 5.0 (currently)
High Point, NC


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PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2018 2:37 am 
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Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
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Location: Jersey Shore
The 3 foot Sport bridle length shown in the wire guide should probably have an asterisk next to it with a note that says only to be used with bow spreader bar.

As for repair, he is going to need to re-glass the whole deck/flange area. It shouldn’t be too bad since the pin mostly just peeled out sideways rather than ripping off the whole flange. I would probably also make a custom anchor bar (the round rod under the flange that the anchor pin threads into) that’s a little longer than the original. This will help spread the load past the repaired area. Last, I would replace both anchor pins. Even though they didn’t break, those things do not like side loads and I would be concerned one could shear off at some point after being stressed the way they were.

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