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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 3:01 pm 
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On a newer 14, where is the end of the job block support wire supposed to attach? The stay adjusters moved from the side rail to the deck at some point in the last few years, so there is nothing to attach the wire to, and there are no parts in the kit that look like they are supposed to go into the side rails...? Is the support wire needed? Could I just run one shackle into another larger shackle that won’t go through the grommet under the tramp to hold the jib block down or will that stress the grommet? Seems like the wire helps rake tension off the trampoline.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 5:01 pm 
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Next question, what am missing? Changed the bridle wires and attached the furler, attached the upper pigtail furler to the mast tang, raised the mast and the bottom of the jib is about a foot and a half from the furler, with the shrouds at the top hole. Should the turbo have longer shrouds? Should I be using 2 adjuster plates? Trying to make sure everything works in anticipation of the maiden voyage in a couple weeks.

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Last edited by Brianm on Mon Apr 08, 2019 3:05 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 07, 2019 5:42 pm 
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It would be interesting to hear what Hobie has as a solution for this, but I would think you could install the “old style” anchor plates but before doing this, use a hack saw to cut off the top portion of the plate to remove the actual shroud attachment and have the plate sit flush with or below the top of the side bar (also use a flat file to deburr the edges and take off the corners). I think you still need to have the wire running under the tramp to support the jib cleat load.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 8:22 am 
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https://static.hobiecat.com/digital_assets/hc14-std-race_gb.pdf#page=15

Sounds like you have a newer Hobie Europe 14? The manual above describes adding the chain plates as noted by srm. They also have longer bridles and an adjusted shown. You got the Jib kit in the US right? The US kit was not designed for the European 14.

10300000 CHAIN PLATE, "TURBO"
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 8:32 am 
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I would think you will still want to cut off and round over/de-burr the top of the anchor plate a 1/4” or so above the top rivet hole. Otherwise you’re going to have a stainless steel tab sticking up from the side bar ready to do some bodily damage.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 9:35 am 
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I would think you will still want to cut off and round over/de-burr the top of the anchor plate a 1/4” or so above the top rivet hole.


Yes!

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 10:20 am 
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thanks guys, I'll order the chain plates, and yes, I think I can easily modify them to remove the part that sticks up, and cover it with the neoprene kit I ordered, that seems relatively simple. Is the chain plate riveted? The manual just says "Take the anchor bars and fix them on the side bars", with no other instruction... if riveted, does it come with rivets or what size do I need?

For the furler attachment, the euro manual shows a different assembly with bridle attachments at the bottom, which would give extra length (and the pigtail at the mast tang seems longer. Would it be safe/effective to use a second stay adjuster to make up the missing length, or will it flex too much to properly furl? or can I get longer bridle wires with the proper attachments? What length would I need?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 10:29 am 
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Rivets are 3/16” diameter stainless, three (3) per side. I would think 3/8” long would do the trick, but that is just a guess.

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 08, 2019 2:46 pm 
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Use 8010181 RIVET POP 3/16x1/4 PH

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