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PostPosted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 12:27 pm 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2019 10:59 am
Posts: 6
Hi,

I’m reactivating my 1977 Hobie 14 after more than 25 years in indoor storage. It has all the ‘old’ features – 3/32” wires and 3/16” pins, non-adjustable rudder castings, 4:1 mainsheet system and of course, it’s a non-turbo model. I sailed it extensively last summer, and it was as much fun as I remember having when I first bought it 42 years ago.

After looking at length for a newer, turbo boat, and finding nothing suitable within a thousand miles, I’ve decided to upgrade what I have. Apart from the slightly sun-faded hull decks and tramp, it’s pretty much like new – being a freshwater boat means no corrosion issues, and with comparatively little use, it’s still stiff.

I’ve gone through the H14/H16 Parts Guide, and along with a comprehensive list of update items, I’ve ordered the necessary parts for making up new standing rigging – black-coated 1/8 wire, thimbles and sleeves, etc. The guide shows the 20210000 twist toggle for the H14/H16 shroud illustration. My original 3/32 shrouds are 15’ 5” long. From the Hobie Wire Chart, the new shroud length is 15’ 3 ¼”. If you add the 1 ½” length of the twist toggle, to the new shroud length, the new assembly is only ¼” shorter tan the old length, so it’s apparent that the twist toggle must only be used on the H16.

What is the purpose of the twist toggle, and since I now already have them, is it worth using them, and just shortening the new shroud length to 15’ 1 ¾”?

John


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 3:34 am 
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Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 3714
Location: Jersey Shore
I don’t recall ever seeing the twist toggle used on the 14. Seems like it would be unnecessary, I would skip it.

sm


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 3:46 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Tue Mar 24, 2015 2:53 am
Posts: 23
The twist toggle is probably for the new 14s which have the shrouds attached to the fibreglass deck edge.

Sreve

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 08, 2019 10:52 am 
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Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Mon Nov 04, 2019 10:59 am
Posts: 6
Hi again,

Thanks to srm and scotty1 for your replies. I’ll make the shrouds to the new 15’ 3 ¼” length, and skip the twist toggles. The simpler, the better.

My intention is to convert the boat to the 14 Turbo configuration and add the trap system – thus the rigging upgrade to 1/8” wires. In my original post, I mentioned my unsuccessful search for a suitable Turbo model, and with ‘good bones’ to start with, I think I can justify whatever it takes to bring mine up to the Turbo standard.

Since it’s stored on the beach all summer, I’ve decided to rig it as a ‘Mini 16’ so the jib isn’t exposed to the elements for months at a time – otherwise, I would have just ordered the Turbo jib furler conversion kit from Hobie. I’ve obtained a dolphin striker kit, new chainplates, the jib block support wire, and Harken H2611 jib blocks (in lieu of the H186 blocks that are out of production). I used the original 3/32 shrouds, shortened to 13’ 5”, plus trap handles and cable stops, for the trap wires.

The mast is all aluminum – not a safety concern because there are no overhead powerlines anywhere near the lake – so no issues with extended exposure to sunlight. The tramp is original – faded a bit but still flexible, having been stored in the cold and dark during the off-seasons. I’m doubling the grommets, mainly as a preventive measure, and it will need the jib block grommets as well.

The original 4:1 mainsheet system never was adequate, so I’ve updated to the 6:1 Harken H194/H2640 block combination.

There was quite a bit of slop in the rudders, and they hummed like crazy last summer, but dressing the trailing edges and shimming the castings eliminated most of the vibration, and I now have the replacement parts on hand to deal with the worn items.

I know that the mast base and step castings have changed over the years to accommodate more mast rake, but I’ll see next summer if I have to incorporate the new parts. If I recall correctly, with the old castings, if the desirable amount of rake is set, the mast rotation stops won’t contact, and there is interference at the rear of the step, requiring removal of material in that area. I’m planning on a 6:1 downhaul instead of the original simple (and useless) line and cleat set-up, so spending a few extra bucks on the Hobie 14 powerpak, which along with the 6:1 downhaul, includes the mast rotation control kit that would eliminate the mast stop contact issue.

The sail is in really good shape. Although it’s the 5 batten type, I can’t see updating that to a six batten sail – I don’t think any performance improvement could justify the cost.

I haven’t chosen a jib yet – I’ll decide that next spring. Oh, and I’ll also get a Baby Bob mast float – every time I dumped the boat years ago, it turtled.

John


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PostPosted: Sun Dec 01, 2019 6:22 pm 
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Hobie Approved Guru

Joined: Mon Jul 14, 2003 7:11 pm
Posts: 5177
Location: Detroit, MI
If you have not done so already, you must install a dolphin striker for a Turbo / trapeze retrofit on a 14.


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