A couple noob questions.

1. How to you rake a mast on a Hobie 14 since there is no boom vang? I know enough about sailing to know that if you were to haul in your mainsheet so tight that the boom would angle down and the main sail would pull on the mast so much that it bends, your boom would be straight with the boat, and you would not be able to control the angle of your main sail. I know there is a traveler at the rear crossbar, is the angle of the mainsail achieved by adjusting the traveler instead of letting out the sheet main when the mast is raked back?? When I acquire a Hobie I will be using it strictly for pleasure, not racing so I dont really care about going 10 knots instead of 12, mast raking is not important for me.

2. When stepping the mast, should I make the stays/shrouds as tight as possible since I dont plan on raking my mast? I am under the impression that the hobie cat manual ive seen tells you to leave some slack in the forestay so that the mast can be raked, but i could be wrong.

3. When lowering the mainsail, can I bundle the mainsail to the boom much like a conventional cruising sailboat, and let the back of the boom sit on the rear cross bar? I know there is no topping lift on a Hobie, but I'm not sure if the boom is afixed to the mast in a manner that it is supported with a pin, or if it just drops onto the trampoline when you lower the mainsail..

4. Final question: I've noticed the the tiller pole comes further forward than the mainsheet where it attaches to the traveller. Wouldnt the mainsheet get in the way when you go to tack/gibe to the other side? Are you supposed to feed the tiller bar behind the mainsheet when you tack/gibe?

Thanks for your patience and help, its been a long time since i was on a cat..

Cdogg.

1) You adjust the mast rake by lengthening the forestay and shortening the shrouds (or vice-versa). A vang (and you could add one) controls the angle of the boom to the mast thereby flattening the sail or allowing it to be fuller.

2) I think you're supposed run the traveler to each stop, sheet in hard and adjust the shroud accordingly. I've heard 'experts' say the like to run 'a little loose'. I wouldn't run too loose as the rig holds the mast in place when you tip over.

3) Conventional sailboats often have a large mast head and run a line from the back of the head to the back of the boom. They drop the sail into the bag and zip it up. On a Hobie the battens would catch on the line. I've seen people make a bag and attach the halyard to the back. You definitely want to protect the sail from UV.

4) Yes.

_________________
The ox is slow but the earth is patient

Mast rake is not about speed, as much as preventing pitch poling, in my understanding. Which is highly desirable.



No, but not too loose as already mentioned. You can often insert an adjuster in the forestay, to get rake.



The boom sits in the mast channel that also takes the main. Once you have the downhaul loose, you can lift it up and out of the channel, as there is an opening for that. Then you need to release the fitting at the top of the mast that holds the sail up, and then you can drop the main. I wrap the sail around the boom.



You get used to feeding it round. When it drops into the water, its a pain. It can be a bit dodgy in really strong wind coming about, as you tend to tip the boat on its butt, and if you have a gib, and back wind it at that moment, you can go over backwards. I prefer gybing in really strong wind, even though you need to take that very carefully.

Thanks Geoff.

I think I will just master the art of tacking, even without a jib (non turbo). From the sounds of things it ain't easy. I still don't understand how you would't just have enough momentum to tack the boat, but then again I am use to monohulls. Maybe the the hull on the outside of the turn acts as a brake and sort of gets dragged in the water? Thats my best guess.

I had a couple of bad experiences with jibing where I consider myself lucky that I wasnt knocked out cold and in the water, but im sure we've all been smacked upside the head once or twice.

Cdogg

Just make sure you turn REALLY slowly through the wind, literally sail directly downwind, as you move the sail across. I actually hold the sheets in my hand, and thus don't let the sail go out to the full length of the sheets. Naturally its pretty sheeted out down wind.

I used to think that jibing was scary but I'm starting to understand it a little. The secret has to do with 'apparent wind'. If there is no wind and you are driving down the road at 50 mph and you stick your hand out the window you will feel a 50 mph 'apparent' headwind.

Now imagine that the wind is out of the north at 5 mph. You are sailing due south at about 3-4 mph and have the sail sheeted all the way out on the port side. You will feel an apparent wind of 1-2 mph from behind you. Gradually turn to the southwest and sheet in until you have a heading of about 225. The boat will pick up speed and the apparent wind will shift to the west. Your speed will probably be about 6+ mph. Cats can actually go faster than the wind! The apparent wind will now be out of the West at about 3-4 mph.

Now quickly turn left to a heading of about 135. As long as you hit 180 before you slow down to 5 mph, the apparent wind will shift southward and then eastward. TACK (yes I said tack) across it. Reach up, grab the sheets, and take the boom with you as you move across the tramp. When you get to 135 the apparent wind will now be from the East.

Even if you don't get it quite perfect (and I usually don't) it should be easy (and a lot gentler) to bring the boom across this way. I know it doesn't sound like it will work but it does.

_________________
The ox is slow but the earth is patient

I'm not sure what you're referring to here - a vang controls the amount of vertical twist in the sail - it has nothing to do with mast rake. The traveller on the H-14 performs much of the same function as a vang - so much so that a vang is not used. On a Hobie 14, mast rake is set by the forestay.



The short answer is no - you won't be able to pin the forestay when you step the mast. A Hobie 14 likes a loose rig. Racers routinely carry the rig so loose that you can grab a shroud with your fist and turn it 90 degrees.



You can, but I don't recommend it. Release the batten tension, then roll the sail from the top, starting with the top batten. Don't roll it around the boom as tangs, cleats, etc. will eventually chafe holes in the sail. Remove the sail / boom from the boat when you're done sailing. If you want the sail to last a long time, don't store it outside, and certainly not exposed to the weather, even under a cover.



This has been answered already - the short answer is yes. You get used to it.

You should really take a look at Bob Curry's Hobie 14 tuning guide: Here

Also, look at boats from last year's Hobie 14 North Americans and how they were set up Here