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 Post subject: hobie 14 rigging advice
PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 12:11 am 
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hi folks
I've just purchased a hobie 14 and put the aft stays up stepped the mast up and its impossible to connect the jib to the bridle that runs between both hulls.
What am I doing wrong please help


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 10:09 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake, Kansas
Put the clevis pin in the top (7th) hole of both side stay (shroud) adjusters when stepping mast.

After you have stepped the mast then you tension the rig by moving them down, one side at a time.

Google "Hobie 14 assembly manual" for detailed info

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1984 H16 "Mister Rogers"
1984 H14 "Sundays"
2000 H20 "Jet"
Sheet In, Max Out


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PostPosted: Thu Mar 15, 2018 12:33 pm 
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I recently bought a Hobie 14. I am a novice and am looking for help. There is a good amount of extra parts and I’m not sure how to rig it. There is a Hobie jib and furler but the tramp looks like a Standard Hobie 14 tramp. Ie, No anchor bars for the side bars but I do have the transversal wire. The tramp has no location for the jib blocks(Hobie Turbo kit) and the front crossbar has no blocks either(Harken turbo Kit?). There are several holes in the crossbar that have been filled. There are 2 eyestraps and that’s it. I do have what look like2 Harken 57mm Ratchet with swivel, becket, cams (28-2137) on a jib sheet outside of a carbo jib clew. Any ideas where these should be located? Also have a Ronstan 29mm fiddle V-Jam cleat on the furler line. I have no idea where this was mounted. I do have Standard bridles and forestay. I’m pretty sure I could sail the boat without the jib but would like to include it if possible.

Can anyone help?


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:46 am 
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Location: Clinton Lake, Kansas
Here's a good link

http://midwestsailing-teh.blogspot.com/2009/02/introduction-with-help-of-dan-berger.html

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1984 H16 "Mister Rogers"
1984 H14 "Sundays"
2000 H20 "Jet"
Sheet In, Max Out


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 4:46 pm 
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Great link. Having trouble getting the right grommets. Seems no one in town has any bigger than #5s. (5/8 inch inner diameter) Most posts say at least #8s are minimum but one post said they were successful with #4s. I think Dan even mentioned #10s. Any idea why they need to be so big? The Swivel Cam Cleats are only about 3/8" where they go through the trampoline. Everything else is coming together.

Thanks gang


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 5:30 pm 
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Location: Oceanside, California
8070081 SPUR GROMMET #8 BRASS

Take a look at the H14 Turbo rigging manual:

https://static.hobiecat.com/item_attachments/80200000z52.pdf

Image

Update an older boat to use a Turbo Jib:

https://static.hobiecat.com/item_attachments/80200020z78.pdf

Image

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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 6:11 pm 
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Thanks for the info. Talking to awning/tent/upholstery stores here locally, they say they do not have the molds to connect anything over #5s with a pressure grommet machine. No hardware stores have the manual molds to use with hammers. Any suggestions?

PS: the previous owner bought everything for the Turbo except the grommets, (maybe lost) and the extended chainplate so it seems they just mounted the jib cam cleats somehow to the front crossbar eyestraps.


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PostPosted: Tue Mar 20, 2018 9:51 pm 
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You need a sail maker and you still need to remove the trampoline to have it done. Maybe ship to a sail loft?

Honestly... you could have an upholstery shop cut the holes and beef up with webbing or something. Thick material sewn all around the hole. The brass is not needed. The cable holds the sheet loads.

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Hobie Cat USA


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 6:39 am 
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Thanks again Matt. I'll get something similar to your suggestion to work. Another question. My front crossbar has several (8 to 10) filled-in holes from different block/cleat combinations. The only thing currently there are two eyestraps. I need a V-jam and see the diagram location is to the left of the mast. There are holes on the right that look as if there was a V-jam there at one time. If I drill more holes on the left, will I be weakening the crossbar too much? (approximately 16 total) Should I maybe use the existing holes on the right to install my V-jam?


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 7:03 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
The location of the jam cleat for the furler line doesn't matter, you can put it wherever is convenient for you. I would avoid putting more holes in the crossbar if possible.

For grommets, you can get hammer installed kits/punch tools from McMaster Carr, however the cost for the #8 tools is pretty high, especially for a one time use. A #8 grommet is probably a bit bigger than you need anyway. As long as the hole is big enough for the shackle on the jib block to pass through, you should be good.

sm


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PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2018 8:02 pm 
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Good advise about the extra holes. I'll try putting the V-jam in some filled-in holes.

Thanks srm!


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 9:02 am 
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Any idea how long the lines are between the dog bones and the shock cord and is the purpose of the rope lock to extend or shorten the distance between the trapeze thimble and the dog bone for tall and short people between their trapeze wire and their harness? Longest run on question ever! My shock cord is certainly not original and is doubled up and has no thimbles. I don't think it matters. Correct or no?


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 10:17 am 
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Matt, and anyone else who can help
I watched your video on Hobie 16 rigging and mast stepping to spend more time sailing from the '90s. Question I have is how to take the mast down on a 14 that has the forestay in the jib with the furler at the bottom and where to store it along with the main shrouds and the trapeze wires? Is there any way to keep all 5 stays attached to the Mast tang shackle. Can the jib be furled and remain next to the mast? What about the bridles and the furler? Getting ready to practice all this and would like some good ideas.

PS: looks like I have a homemade upper forestay with only permanent thimbles and not shackles.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2018 11:02 am 
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Location: Jersey Shore
Correct, the rope locks on the trap lines are to allow height adjustment of the trap ring. The trap lines themselves are about 3' long (should be just long enough so that when the traps are retracted, the knot between the line and the bungee is right above the side bar for the tramp).

On the 14 Turbo, the forestay and jib are essentially one and can't be easily disconnected. Unpin the forestay from the top of the furler to drop the mast. The jib can be left furled around the forestay and tied to the mast, but it will eventually be damaged from sun (at least on the outside edge). Best to use a "snorkel" to protect the jib if storing it this way. The shrouds and traps can be left attached to the mast and hulls and just be coiled up and tied to the hiking straps on the tramp. For the bridle wires, connect the jib sheets to the top of the furler, pull them in tight, and cleat them off. This will hold the furler up when trailering.

sm


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 12, 2018 1:04 pm 
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Thanks srm,
It seems like my shock cord on the trapeze is too long. Easy to fix but won't know for sure till I step the mast. Winds in CO are gusting to 50 kts these days so I'm waiting for a calm day. I have a jib cover that is big enough that it will cover both the jib and mast when the mast is down. Jib sheet to furler makes sense for trailering. Unfortunately, that's the only way I will be able to sail is to trailer.

PS: Am I right in assuming the top of the jib is connected to the short forestay/pigtail before raising the mast then connect the bottom of the jib to the furler to keep the mast up?


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