Rivet Qestions (and some others)

I have several questions really...Thanks to all the folks out there with the answers. This forum has been very helpful!! So, my old but cherry 1977 H-16 is getting a spring sprucing and I have a some "mast" questions:
1. I'm going to install a comp tip. Does the comp tip insert all the way to the tang? Do the tang rivets go through both the aluminum and comp tip together?

2. My tang is the older with only one hole. Do I need to replace it...? The newer tang (with 3 holes) looks to have a different rivet hole pattern. Am I right? Part of my reasoning is the comptip package came with 12, 3/16 rivets (the rivets actually seem to be slightly larger than 3/16?).

3. If and when I need to replace the tang, what happens to the old holes? Do I plug them somehow...flush rivet?

4. I bought a heavy duty riveter whose box says "sets 5 sizes": 1/8, 5/32, 3/16, 7/32, and 1/4. Will one of those sizes work for the 12 new tang rivets? How do I pin the the comptip? My friend has an 86 H-16 and his comptip has a phillups screw head on one side and a flathead on the other...strange. Can I use West System epoxy to glue it (once I get the fit nice)? Do I need to use a rivet or screw on either side? Do I just rely on the epoxy and tang rivets to hold it all together (if in fact it inserts to the tang)?

5. I downloaded a copy of "Comptip Retrofit Instructions" and they seem easy enough. But with the foam plug is a stainless steel (?) plate that is slightly smaller than the foam plug. Is it simply for setting the plug to the proper depth? I can't figure out what purpose it serves.

6. I think I need to replace both the mast base and the mast step piece that's on the crossbar. The mast base is showing some abuse. The rotation stops (on the mast) are turning into ramps instead of stops. It's as if the mast is over-rotating and climbing over the stops. Besides, the 4 or 5 rivets that anchor it are wiggly loose and the mast base rattles a little. If I replace the mast base, do I also need to replace the mast step (socket on the crossbar) as well? Somewhere I read that there has been several changes is style since the 70's. If I'm replacing one, do I need to replace the other as well? Will my new rivet gun work for those two things as well?

7. lastly (for now..ha ha) the comptip kit came with a new halyard as well. I noticed it only has one "swag" or copper crimp (not sure of the proper name) point on the wire. There's no way to take the tension of the main halyard if I want to sail reefed. Can I just rely on the cleat to take all the tension if I'm reefed.

Wow, that's a lot of questions...thanks to anyone who can help me out!

Yes and yes.


Yes, the new tang is much stronger and has more room for the wires so they don't interefere with each other.


Cover them with tape to keep the Comptip glue from squeezing out during installation. They'll most likely be covered by the new tang when you install it. There's no need to do anything with them.


The rivets are 3/16, so the tool should work. I'm not sure what you mean by "pin the Comptip".


That's one of the first Comptips - there were problems with them coming loose. Don't use his boat as an example. Your Comptip is longer and mounts in a completely different way.


The Comptip kit should have come with a foam plug, and metal plate the shape of the mast. Those need to go in first, and the metal plate should be caulked in on top of the foam plug. That makes the lower section of the mast water tight. WEST System epoxy can be used - just thicken it up to the consistency of peanut butter with 405 Colloidial Silica. Line everything up (straight side-to-side and front-to-back - sight along the mast track to do this) and let the glue go off. Then position the tang, drill the rivet holes and install the rivets.


As mentioned above, it provides the water tight seal for the bottom section of the mast.


You don't have to replace them both, but there have been a number of changes to both that will make it worthwhile. The newer ones allow for more mast rake and the rotation stops are considerably stronger. Your rivet hus should work just fine. If you replace the mast step, there's a "how-to" article in this issue of the class magazine - http://www.hobiecat.com/hobieclass/eHCA_News01_02-05.pdf


The cleat will not hold the tension on the halyard in the "reefing position". Sails do not have reef points anymore. There are other ways to de-power the rig that take the place of reefing.