Return to Hobie.com
Hobie Forums
It is currently Mon Sep 16, 2019 8:18 pm

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 
Author Message
PostPosted: Tue May 21, 2019 6:49 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Deck Hand

Joined: Fri Jan 18, 2019 9:52 pm
Posts: 2
I've searched some of the old posts. There are a lot of 18s out there with ports added ahead of the fore pylons to aid in repair of the soft spots. I'm going to join that crowd.

My question is: Has anyone tried a resin-fiber buildup to produce a flat (flatter) section of deck in order to install flat ports? Globing on sealant seems risky. It's not a structurally sound solution. The contoured ports are hard to find and only ones I have read about are 4". I'm way too old to be monkeying around with my hands in a 4" hole. I've been in similar tight spots before and it's just pure aggravation. A six inch port is sounding minimal to me.

I guess there is always cutting a hatch size access and re-glassing it into place but... that might take me beyond my abilities to assure structural integrity. I'm looking to inject resin to re-laminate the soft spot and to add glass rapped "stringers" either side of the port going forward to the soft spot. Weight is not my biggest concern as this is an old gal and not a racing beauty.


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 3:26 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Admiral

Joined: Wed Mar 31, 2004 7:20 am
Posts: 270
Location: New Brighton, PA
I used West Systems Epoxy, thickened it with silica, worked perfect. Then I just drilled the mounting holes, used silicone as my sealant around the flange. Best photo I have. This was in 2002 and it's still holding up fine.

Image

_________________
Buxton
18' T16 Silent Lightning (16' T2 Hybrid)
11' H16 White Lightning
79' H16 Green Lightning


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 9:05 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Mon May 09, 2005 10:25 am
Posts: 3693
Location: Jersey Shore
A 6” diameter hole (actually 6.5”) is a darn big hole to be putting in the front deck of a H16. You might want to think twice about doing that.

sm


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Tue Jun 04, 2019 10:26 am 
Offline
Site Rank - Old Salt

Joined: Sat May 02, 2009 5:22 am
Posts: 621
Location: Columbus, Indiana
Whatever size you choice, I recommend building a pair of "trusses" for each hole you cut into your hulls.

I repurpose some old battin stock for this.

Start by taking a narrow piece of cardboard and cut out a contouring shape that matches the underside of the deck (internally). As if the cardboard is perpendicular to that surface, hanging tall for strength.

Once your happy with this cutout, transfer layout to a battin that spams longways almost touching each hull. Cut that battin to fit under the deck about 2" away from the hole you cut into the deck. This will leave you with room to fasten the access ports to deck and not interfere with the trusses. Place one on each side to reinforce the area you just cutout.

These will become your trusses. :)

Now fiberglass these trusses in place by bonding with fillets to serve as a structural brace. Keep foot print somewhat small on the access port side.

If you flip your boat over and place on top of some sawhorses, you can use gravity as a friend to help keep the wet resin from dripping. :wink:

This method with keep the deck solid at your new access ports. But still, don't step there. :D

_________________
Bill 404 21SE
Image


Top
 Profile  
 
PostPosted: Fri Jun 07, 2019 7:52 pm 
Offline
Site Rank - Captain

Joined: Tue Jul 24, 2018 12:20 pm
Posts: 38
Location: Galveston, Texas
Building on Bill's comment-circles/rounded holes are way stronger than squares, as this doesn't leave a stress riser (cracking at corners). So, light dancing helps everywhere. Anywho, you can also use chopped fiberglass mixed in epoxy resin to thicken it and build an inside ridge/lip around the entire inside diameter the thickness of the hull, minimum that'll strengthen the hole. Also gives screws a lot of meat to bite into. Mix to a peanut butter consistency. Practice and play with it first. Mix 2 or 3 batches to get comfortable with the time it takes to kick, how strong it gets, etc.

Id use a good epoxy, wash and sand and wipe with acetone or paint prep/degreaser for painting. Leaves it clean, because all your joints are mechanical glue joints. Use a filler like the colloidal silica mentioned or chopped fiberglass or, my personal favorite, chopped carbon fiber. And nitrile gloves. Lots and lots of those blue nitrile gloves to keep stuff clean.

Ans, yeah if you can flip it, it'll be much easier.

_________________
ChuckC
H21SE- 408


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 5 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 8 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
© Hobie Cat Company. All rights reserved.
Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group