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PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:07 am 
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Hobie 16 mast step replacement.

This was written up in the Hotline:

https://s3-us-west-1.amazonaws.com/media.hobie.com/2010_archive/support/pdfs/h16-step-replace.pdf

Not that hard to do usually, but corrosion around the post, through the crossbar, can make it tougher.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jun 22, 2007 3:27 pm 
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Matt, When I removed a mast base from a bent front crossbar,
(1980 h16), I removed the bolts holding the end of the dolphin striker and turned the crossbar rod lefty loosey until it broke free. I then removed the dolphin striker crossbar rod and put a screwdriver in the hole of the post and continued loosing by turning the screwdriver left. Since the post and bottom of the mast base were threaded, this technique worked easily, My mast base and post only took a few minutes to remove once I drilled out the rivits. To reinstall I guess this technique could be reversed after the the rivits were installed and braced with a clamp to keep the twisting tension of turning the post. Since Iwas just removing the base to toss in with my other spare parts, and the cross bar was bent I was not worried about messing up the crossbar. So what do you think?
Thanks, John Gr


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 Post subject: Technique
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 9:35 am 
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To assure the same striker tension and for over all speed of the job, we have found using the car jack system to be the easiest. Often the striker rod is seized in the corner castings. I also had one crossbar fail when a guy forgot to re-tension the striker rod, so better to leave those alone if possible.

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 Post subject: reseating mast step
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 12:50 pm 
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One thing I can add from experience is to resist the temptation to add pressure with the tire jack when that new mast step doesn't seem to seat itself just right on the crossbar.

http://thebeachcats.com/modules.php?set_albumName=album278&id=D_pullDownStrikerBar_seatStep&op=modload&name=gallery&file=index&include=view_photo.php

Mine popped right off and I had to rethread the mast step. I also had to flatten the top of the crossbar to get the new step on because the striker post had bent a lip around the hole.

Mine wasn't very corroded, probably because I sail in fresh water. I'm learning from experience, and I haven't had the severe corrosion experience yet.

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 Post subject: Jack
PostPosted: Mon Jun 25, 2007 1:50 pm 
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That is part of the routine... jack it down, but then use a mallet from the top to tap it down. I invert a ball peen hammer against the post inside the cup, then smack the hammer side with the mallet.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 7:06 pm 
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Location: Raleigh, North Carolina
mmiller wrote:
Hobie 16 mast step replacement.

This was written up in the Hotline:

http://www.hobiecat.com/support/pdfs/h16-step-replace.pdf

Not that hard to do usually, but corrosion around the post, through the crossbar, can make it tougher.



Matt - This link is no longer working. Can you update it or send me the document?

Any idea which Hotline issue?


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PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 6:32 pm 
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Found it: http://static.hobiecat.com/2010_archive ... _02-05.pdf


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 Post subject: Re: reseating mast step
PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 8:03 pm 
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Location: Memphis, TN
I.P. Freely wrote:
One thing I can add from experience is to resist the temptation to add pressure with the tire jack when that new mast step doesn't seem to seat itself just right on the crossbar.

http://www.thebeachcats.com/pictures/?g2_itemId=12223

Mine popped right off and I had to rethread the mast step. I also had to flatten the top of the crossbar to get the new step on because the striker post had bent a lip around the hole.

Mine wasn't very corroded, probably because I sail in fresh water. I'm learning from experience, and I haven't had the severe corrosion experience yet.


Fixed the link to Freely's pictures. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 27, 2013 10:21 am 
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Additional tip:

If your step is hopelessly corroded to the striker pole like mine was. After removing the rivets, slide a piece of wood between the bar and the step (I used a 1' piece of 2x2). Then use a Sawsall to cut the step directly through the middle. Make sure you cut completely down the front and back slide (you are probably going to cut into the wood spacer). Be very careful not to cut into the striker rod or damage the crossbar. Once you've cut as far as you can, put a bolt cutter in the slot and use it to break the step in half down the seam you've cut. In my case, there was less than 1/2 inch of uncut material remaining around the rod.

Worked great for me. Be sure you have at least two new blades on hand because they wear out fast going through that thick aluminum.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 17, 2017 9:19 pm 
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Old thread that proved to be quite useful today, thought I'd share a few photos of the more extreme version when the step is fused to the dolphin striker. Instead of using a car jack I used a ratchet strap to pull down the striker towards the trailer.
GD-NC's post proved to work great, and thank you for all the other info in here!



Image





Image




Image

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2017 12:07 pm 
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Lost Roadie,

I had to do a similar procedure on several H16s when I upgraded their mast step and mast base to the newer more rake style. I used a sawzall and a dremel cutting disc to make three radial cuts into the base and then used wedges in the cuts to bust the pieces off of the dolphin striker rod.

It is hard to imagine that just a few threads of stainless steel and cast aluminum could corrode to form such a strong bond.

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