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PostPosted: Mon Oct 05, 2015 5:35 pm 
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Our club bought a new Getaway from our local dealer this spring and had the spinnaker kit installed. It worked great but the spinnaker pole / bowsprit keeps bending! Not just a little but a lot, to the point where the spinnaker can no longer be used. We've straightened it, the dealer has straightened it, the dealer has looked over the installation and found no problems, but it just keeps bending. Even from the pictures I've seen on this site, our rigging looks right. We sail on a small inland lake with squirrely winds, but the last time it bent the winds were under 10 knots. Has anyone else had this problem? I have cut down a Laser upper mast section, which is 2" in diameter but same gage aluminum, and we are preparing to use it instead of the Hobie unit.

Any help as to why we are bending it would be greatly appreciated!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 8:50 am 
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Klaus wrote:
Our club bought a new Getaway from our local dealer this spring and had the spinnaker kit installed. It worked great but the spinnaker pole / bowsprit keeps bending! Not just a little but a lot, to the point where the spinnaker can no longer be used. We've straightened it, the dealer has straightened it, the dealer has looked over the installation and found no problems, but it just keeps bending. Even from the pictures I've seen on this site, our rigging looks right. We sail on a small inland lake with squirrely winds, but the last time it bent the winds were under 10 knots. Has anyone else had this problem? I have cut down a Laser upper mast section, which is 2" in diameter but same gage aluminum, and we are preparing to use it instead of the Hobie unit.

Any help as to why we are bending it would be greatly appreciated!


Sounds like you aren't pre-bending the pole, the middle of the pole needs to be tied to the furler bridle mount and bend up in the middle of the pole. So tighten the front pole bridles and lift the center, then when there's load on it from the Spinnaker it won't lift up and bend. - Also never try and pull the getaway by the pole to get in and out of the water - very easy to bend the pole down that way... there's no structure to keep it from getting bent 'down, but it shouldn't bend 'up' while sailing if you have it rigged correctly. This is the same for all spinnaker kits for all cats - not just a Getaway.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 9:00 am 
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
What Jacques said.

The only broken s/poles we've had at our Club were from:
A collisions (yikes, never port side the 29'er fleet at their start in a regatta!)
B when cats were not secured on the hard and were blown over in a gust.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 06, 2015 11:18 am 
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No, to my knowledge it was not pre-bent, just post-bent, upwards, from sailing it. It's not broken, just has a nice arc, pretty much centered, such that there's about 150 degrees from one end to the other. It was instaled by the dealer straight as an arrow and it's been subsequently straightened - twice. We are also carefull about how the boat is launched, etc. It bends while out on the water with the spinnaker deployed.

From what I understand of the pre-bending process mentioned above, it sounds like the end of the pole winds up pointing down, such that it's about 200 degrees from one end to the other. Is this correct? If so, is there an amount in degrees or rise that we should be aiming for?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:23 am 
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I think I have this thing figured out...

The pole needs to be pre-bent such that the spinnaker end goes down (from straight). Then the spinnaker end of the pole is tightly attached to the forward cross bar via the bridle. Now, when the spinnaker exerts an upward force on the end of the pole, the pole has to unbend from being bent down before it can bend up. But it can’t if the bridle is tight since the pole has to straighten out, which means lengthen, before it can bend up. Since the bridle won’t allow it to lengthen, it can’t bend up.

Clever.

I'm glad I got this information and figured out what was going on. Thanks! We were literally seconds away from cutting the end off of the OEM spinn pole to extract the linkage between the forward cross member and the pole so we could use it on our new pole cut from a Laser mast. We'll now arch the pole the other way and reinstall it, knowing the physics behind it. We'll share the information with our Hobie dealer too, good and very knowledgable people. But we'll keep the Laser mast section on hand just in case... I'm a tiny bit worried about metal fatigue on the OEM pole from so much bending.


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:38 am 
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
The repair of a broken/bent spin pole is easy.
Cut the pole, insert an internal sleeve.
Rivet, and re-install.

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 07, 2015 8:10 am 
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Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
I have one bit of advice regarding the middle of the spin pole.

I attach the middle of the spin pole to the bottom of the jib's roller furling. To get the best pre-bend, I attach it as close as possible. Unfortunately, I found that attaching the spin pole directly to the sides of roller furling bent the furling casing inwards, causing the roller furling to not work as well. It jammed. Therefore, I now use a small turnbuckle as a spreader bar. I use a short cord to attach my spin pole to the middle hole of the turnbuckle. Using the middle hole prevents the cord, and hence the spin pole, from slipping side to side. I then use two other short cords to attach each end of the turnbuckle to the sides of the roller furling. I use the shortest cords that I can to keep the spin pole as close as possible to the bottom of the roller furling, and thereby enable lots of room for a good downward pre-bend. I have found that this setup does not impact the performance of the jib's roller furling.

I would post a picture of my configuration, but I just took off my spin a few days ago (when I had to replace my broken main halyard).
Here is a picture of the style of small turnbuckle that I use. There is nothing really special about this style, I just happened to have one, and it met my needs.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STAINLESS-STEEL ... 2108677976

Also, remember to wrap every edge or point around the roller furling with some sort of tape. These spins rip very very easily. Wrap everything that is within reach of the spin. I have five new rips from just this season that I need to patch.


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 9:42 am 
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Location: Benicia, CA
I would never sail without a spinnaker if I could help it. To me, it is the difference between the weekend warrior and a "real" sailor--perhaps I'm being snobbish, though.

That being said, a year ago when I bought the boat, I decided to install a small-ish symspin since my sailing is nearly always windward leeward and I nearly always have 15-25 kts of wind to play in. Also, I'm 65 and don't want to go swimming in the 50 degree water where I sail. After reading the stuff above, I have to think I made the right choice. Advantages of symspin-1) no sprit; 2) no additional mast bail; 3) no need for ratchet blocks; 4) boat sails flat 5) less stress on the mast 6) CHEAP. Disadvantages-not nearly as exciting since it sails flat and it is probably a little slower depending on the driver/course and windspeed. Fastest I've had the boat is 15.5--briefly.

To install, you need 3 bullet blocks (~$90) and 4 eye straps and a 18 foot (leaches) by 15 foot (foot) symspin and two lengths of 50 foot 1/4 inch yacht braid line. While not strictly necessary, you will need a spin snuffer or a spin bag if you decide not to snuff. If anyone is interested in duplicating my system, I'll be happy to share instructions and technique. If Hobie wants to create a kit, I'm willing to provide to Hobie everything they will need to create one in terms of directions (How - to) but not materials. This spin system is adaptable to any boat that has a front crossbeam. The lighter/more powerful the boat is, though, the more an asymspin will be advantageous. The slow(er) Getaway only creates a little apparent wind, a faster Tiger is better off with an asymspin. Basic rule of thumb- if the top end of the boat upwind is less than 15 kts, the symspin will work.

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PostPosted: Tue Nov 03, 2015 7:18 pm 
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Does anyone know the Hobie reccomended Spinnaker halyard length for a Getaway Spinnaker kit? It's time replace my line.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 9:06 am 
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Location: Moncton, New Brunswick, Canada
Would it make sense to add a running backstay to prevent mast failure when using a spinnaker on a Getaway?


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 10:45 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Not sure that is possible with the square top main. A center line backstay would interfere with the tacking of the main and two backstays (one on either side) would interfere with main on a wide reach. Maybe you envision something different than what I have described that would work. Please elaborate.

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PostPosted: Tue Jan 10, 2017 8:17 pm 
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That's the point of a running backstay, only tighten as need so the main sail can pass.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 21, 2018 7:35 pm 
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Hi!

This is my first post but I have been reading this forum for a year. I am the second owner of a 2012 Getaway. First owner took great care of it, color coded everything and made it easy to rig. I am not sure about the spinnaker, though, and he has not called me back.

Could I attach the spin pole directly to the bottom of the jib furler drum using a swivel shackle connected to the drum and the cord already tied to the center of the spin pole?

The few other posts I have found on this topic talk about mounting to the sides of the furler.

Thank you!


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 22, 2018 8:20 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
You can't connect the spin pole directly to the eyelet under the furler because that eyelet spins when you furl and unfurl the jib. A swivel shackle might work but not sure anyone has tried it. I did mine like in the picture in the link below. I made the spreader bar out of 1/2" diameter aluminum rod. Cut to about 4.5" length and drilled 3 holes in it. If you don't use a spreader bar and just hang the spin pole from the sides of the furler where the bridles attach, the cords pinch the furler drum and it makes furling the jib difficult.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/7itHbUZXePDjjz9u8

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 23, 2018 8:49 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 04, 2005 10:13 am
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Location: Nepean S.C. Ottawa, Canada
email with pictures send to United 694

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'


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