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PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2016 3:59 pm 
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Location: Rockford, IL
Matt or Jacques:
Does Hobie sell the hatch handles separately? I had a handle break on my 2012 Getaway - the hatch is ok otherwise.
Thanks!

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"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 12:24 pm 
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https://www.austinkayak.com/products/89 ... Hatch.html

I have broken two handles/hatches on the old lids. The new one is, as reported, a much-needed improvement.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 08, 2016 1:43 pm 
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Location: Benicia, CA
I was chatting with a local SC20 owner who was admiring my Getaway and he wondered why I didn't remove the cooler bottom so I would have a lot more storage. Apparently the SC20 has hatches that open into the float bottom (or at least his did). It seems like a good idea (yah, I know the lids leak, but I don't think they would leak enough to sink the float (I don't have a lot of water in mine after a typical sail--of course they can drain into the float already). Since I only day sail a few hours at a time I don't really need to carry very much, but if I were to want to camp out, that'd be something to consider. Anyone do this?

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SeaRail 19
Triak
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Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 6:31 am 
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I wouldn't want any direct communication between the coolers and the inside of the hull. When I sail flying a hull, LOTS of water get inside the cooler (probably about 3/4 full of water if the drain plug was in place so it doesn't drain). I wouldn't really want the possibility of getting that much water inside the hull.
In my getaway the cooler drains drain the water outside of the hull (I think older models drained into the hull).

Guillermo


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 12:25 pm 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
I definitely would not want the cooler bottoms open to the inside of the hull if there was a capsize. The hull in the water would fill pretty quickly if it were open. The hatches don't seal that well. Would make sailing after the capsize very difficult with one hull full or partially full of water. Might even make it more difficult to right the boat if you couldn't do it quick enough.

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Used parts for sale. All original from 2002 Getaway. All showing their age but functional. Just pay shipping.
- Main and jib ---- SOLD.
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- shrouds


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 11, 2016 1:54 pm 
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Location: Benicia, CA
Next time you capsize, check to see how wet the hatch is for me--I don't capsize or I'd check myself (knock on wood). A SC20 hatch might seal better than ours. He said he stores all sorts of stuff in there. My F242 also had hatches that opened into the bottom of the float (of course, there were partitions). The floats routinely got copious amounts of water during hard sailing and the F242 wasn't supposed to flip so no righting concerns. My Getaway floats are bone dry inside.

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SeaRail 19
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Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2016 10:27 am 
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Austin Canoe and Kayak carries all three items needed for the upgrade. (You can not reuse the old gasket (wrong size).

One review at ACK mentioned using marine "Goop" to seal the hatch... and that the recommended screws were too short (perhaps due to the Goop?).

Jacques, do you recommend a sealer/adhesive like this? If so, a layer both below and above gasket?

Thanks for the great support, TeamHobie! :)


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 01, 2016 8:47 pm 
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I installed these on my 2002 Getaway and they are great. Prior to this, my coolers would take on quite a bit of water and the older Getaways don't have cooler drains. With the new lids, my coolers haven't been getting much (if any) water in them. I did the install with the recommended gaskets and screws. I didn't use any "goop". My only concern is the handles feel a little fragile. We will see how they hold up over time.

When you install the new lids, mark the holes with the lids inserted and closed. If you don't get the lid centered just right (front to back), they won't close.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 02, 2016 8:45 am 
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Location: Rockford, IL
I was able to repair the broken handle with superglue and a longer screw that goes the length of the handle. I put a longer screw in the unbroken one as well, to strengthen it.
$98 for a lid? Phew!

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"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 11, 2016 5:23 am 
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The drain in one of the wells on our Getaway (purchased used) isn't draining. Is there an easy way to remove and replace it? It's kind of resistant!


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 16, 2017 4:16 pm 
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Location: Rockford, IL
mmiller wrote:
Now you can bypass that one for the latest thing. We now have the rectangular Twist and Seal hatches 100% better! and... white too. Better seal, better strength, captive lid.

71717001 Rectangular Hatch White
71707002 (x 2) Gasket
8032121 Screw (x 14)


Matt, I got the new hatches, but they sent the old style gaskets. Dang.
Does your post mean I should use 2 of the (new style) gaskets per side?

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"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 24, 2017 9:38 am 
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Location: Rockford, IL
So I bit the bullet and bought 2 of the new hatches. I got 4 of the flat gaskets, put 2 under each hatch. I think you need 2 gaskets on each side to seal it.
The locking shafts are a bit long and hit the inside of the cooler, so you have to file them down a bit. Be careful, if you file them too far, they get caught when you have the hatch open and they come loose.
My hatch supplier sent me the old style getaway gasket, which will not work with the new hatch. Be sure you get the ones specified by Matt.
I'm going to post my unbroken hatch with the new (old style) gasket in the For Sale forum for anyone with a broken hatch who doesn't want to spend $100 for a new one.

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"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 24, 2017 9:45 am 
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ok, for those who did the upgrade on A 2002 did you have t odrill new holes?


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PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 10:18 am 
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Bob ("Firefly"):

I have a 2012 Getaway and one of the hatch covers has been replaced with the new design.

I've been out in some rough chop on Lake Erie several times this season. The cooler with the old hatch was nearly full of water after a couple of those rougher sails. The new hatch: bone dry every sail.

If you order the new seals, you only need one for each cooler. My bone dry result suggests that, at least.

For good measure, before I installed the new hatch and seal, I sealed the old screw holes with silicon sealant.

Installation required drilling pilot holes for the new screws, and a phillips screwdriver. Also silicon sealant for the old screw holes. I took some time and care to make sure the cover would be centered over the cooler before I drilled the pilot holes. It wasn't a tight fit, so it was possible that if you didn't center the cover carefully, you'd put screws into the edge of the cooler bay.

Don
"Happy Couple"


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