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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:30 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:27 am
Posts: 244
Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Sits higher than my previous mount which was mounted under the rear crossbar. The mount under the crossbar caused a lot of splashing, both onto the motor and onto the main tramp, not to mention slowing me down. Total cost was about $100.

Made from 80/20 extruded aluminum. https://www.8020.net/
Top plate is bolted straight through the rear crossbar. (2 5/16"x3" SS bolts)
Bottom plate is smaller and at 1/4" thick, is easily wedged into the slot on the back of the crossbar. SS small set screw to ensure is doesn't pop out if there is some unforeseen upward force on the motor.
Main support leg is 24" long. (bolted through the top and bottom plate by 2 5/16"x 2.5" SS bolts)
Plates bolted to the side of the support leg are only cosmetic to hide the gap between rear crossbar and end of main support leg for the motor. (carriage bolt head slide into the t-slot of the support leg and everything is capped with SS acorn nuts)
Since the anchor point for the main sheet is now buried under the motor mount, I added an eye bolt to anchor the main sheet and also to anchor a safety wire for the motor.
Safety wire is an old forestay bridle.
Wooden mounting plate is bolted using SS carriage bolts and SS acorn nuts.
Three L brackets at the motor end of the main support leg are bolted using SS carriage bolt head slid into the t-slot with SS acorn nuts.

Click on the link below to see photos and video. As you can see, it sits high in the water when stationary but when the prop is engaged, it bears down and digs into the water a little more. Of course this was with only myself on board so a few more passengers and it would be lower in the water also.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/bLCpYZXYTjFqfxRN9


Invoice with part numbers are in my photos in the above link. I did place a second order to replace 2 of the 3 four hole L brackets with 3 hole L brackets. 3 Hole L brackets are part number 4376-Black. On the site, https://www.8020.net/ goto Shop, Fastening Methods, External Fasteners. Then refine the search by 15 series and color black. I also ordered a 28" main support leg as I was not sure exactly how long I needed it. I ended up cutting off 4" to make it an even 24" leg.

So in the end I used:

(1) 4301 4 hole L bracket (used as top bracket at the motor end)
(2) 4376 3 hole L bracket (used as side brackets at the motor end)
(1) 4312 7 hole plate (used on top of rear cross bar)
(1) 4341 4 hole plate (used on bottom of rear cross bar)
(2) 4305 3 hole rectangular plate (used on sides of main support leg for cosmetic purposes and needs to be cut to match the curve of the rear crossbar)
(1) 1515-S main support leg. Only 24" needed. My order was for 28" which I had to cut down.
(2) 2110 t-slot cover 72" (ordered on a separate invoice) to give a more finished look to the main support leg.

All bolts, nuts, and washers are 5/16 inch diameter by 18 threads per inch and are stainless steel. Dimensions listed below are length, except for the set screw.

3" hex head bolts (2) for attaching top plate to crossbar
2 1/2" hex head bolts (2) to hold top plate, main support, and bottom plate together
3/4" carriage bolts (4) to hold the side covers to the main support (2 each)*
3/4" carriage bolts (3) to hold the L-shaped parts to the main support (1 each)*
1" carriage bolts (4) to hold the wood motor bracket to the L-shaped parts (2 to the vertical L and 1 each to the horizontal Ls)
Acorn nuts (15)
Flat washers (30)
Split lock washers (15) - I used Loctite blue threadlocker but you could also use lock washers.
1/4" diameter X 1/2" long set screw to hold the bottom plate in the crossbar

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

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Last edited by KeithB on Fri Jun 28, 2019 11:03 am, edited 12 times in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 6:04 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Edited 8/3/17:

Photo bucket screwed everyone that used their site for 3rd party picture hosting therefore all my photos have disappeared. I've cleaned up this thread so that all my info on the motor mount is in the first post with a link to all the photos in one folder.

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Image


Last edited by KeithB on Thu Aug 03, 2017 11:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 6:12 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Edited 8/3/17:

Photo bucket screwed everyone that used their site for 3rd party picture hosting therefore all my photos have disappeared. I've cleaned up this thread so that all my info on the motor mount is in the first post with a link to all the photos in one folder.

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Image


Last edited by KeithB on Thu Aug 03, 2017 11:28 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 03, 2016 1:15 pm 
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Location: Benicia, CA
Good job-particularly clever to use the existing slot to help align and support.

I went the Cheata route which works ok, but I felt it was way more expensive than it had to be. I did have to raise the mount board, though, because otherwise the motor was being drenched while sailing or motoring.

Why do you wrap your kill switch around the motor? Just curious since I don't but could do so if there was a reason (I have the same Honda).

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Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 5:28 am 
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That was actually the first time wrapping it around the motor. No reason other than to keep it from dangling. Obviously, can't have it attached to my wrist like intended unless it was lengthened to at least 3 -4 feet longer.

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 10:50 am 
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Location: Sarasota,Key West FL
We have a TI with the same Honda, it's very reliable and we like it more than a couple other brands we had previously.
On mine I have a single paracord line tied to a convient spot up in my cockpit that I clip to the kill switch line (actually lines (I have twin outboards on mine). If something goes wrong and I need to kill the engine I just grab that line and give it a tug. I also have a tether line that I hook to myself in really rough conditions (just in case), the tether also kills the motors.
FE


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PostPosted: Sun Jun 05, 2016 1:09 pm 
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I'm not sure why small outboards seem all to have these kill clips installed. In 20 years I've never had reason to use one. I've actually spent time trying to figure out a way to defeat them since it can be one more reason why the "darn" thing won't start when you need it. I'd rather have a kill button to push when "done with engine".

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SeaRail 19
Triak
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Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 6:39 am 
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tpdavis473 wrote:
I'm not sure why small outboards seem all to have these kill clips installed.


I've never been saved by a seatbelt or PFD, but I wear them anyway... It's easy enough to find plenty of examples online of why the kill switch is necessary.

Here's one: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article ... hears.html


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 8:21 am 
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Thanks for the link to a reason why...analogy to pfd is apt. Still think it is not much use on a 400 pound sailboat that can't go 5 kts with it running full throttle--would be like fitting a safety knife to the main halyard to cut the halyard if you fell off the boat while sailing (course it wouldn't work on a Hobie because the halyard is hooked at the top).

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SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Mon Jun 06, 2016 3:11 pm 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
So this thread has been hijacked. Even on a boat only moving 5mph, if you fell overboard you'd want the boat to stop. You can't swim that fast. I really should extend the lanyard so I can attach to my wrist.

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 11:57 am 
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Location: Rockford, IL
Beautiful Job Keith! I've got the Cheeta, and yours looks much nicer and stronger than the Cheeta. Production plans? Did you powder coat it?

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"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks


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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 12:08 pm 
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Did the plates and brackets come from 8020 or just the main support leg?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 07, 2016 1:34 pm 
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Everything came from 8020 except the nut/bolts. 8020 is all black anodized aluminum. They did not have stainless nuts/bolts so got those from hardware store.

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 09, 2016 2:23 pm 
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Ah, went to the 8020 site. Great stuff! Do you have the part numbers for the plates and L's?

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks


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PostPosted: Fri Jun 10, 2016 5:15 am 
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Joined: Mon Oct 26, 2009 10:27 am
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Edited 8/3/17:

Photo bucket screwed everyone that used their site for 3rd party picture hosting therefore all my photos have disappeared. I've cleaned up this thread so that all my info on the motor mount is in the first post with a link to all the photos in one folder.

_________________
2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Image


Last edited by KeithB on Thu Aug 03, 2017 11:29 am, edited 1 time in total.

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