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PostPosted: Sat May 13, 2017 6:16 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Not sure what the 17 rear crossbar looks like. I utilized the slot in the back of the rear crossbar on my getaway as a support. I'm sure you could modify my design to make it work for you.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 03, 2017 11:31 am 
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Updated first post with all the pictures that got lost in the great photobucket debacle of 2017:

Photo bucket screwed everyone that used their site for 3rd party picture hosting therefore all my photos have disappeared. I've cleaned up this thread so that all my info on the motor mount is in the first post with a link to all the photos in one folder.

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 12:46 pm 
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Updated my old post, just wanted folks to see the final product which I am very happy with.

PJW wrote:
I am trying a different approach for an electric motor mount for my Hobie Getaway. I was determined not to drill any holes in the rear cross beam and not interfere with the sliding truck of the rear winch. I used a piece of 1x4 by eight foot six inch long wood to provide support and to counteract downward/forward thrust from the motor. The wood goes all the way to the front beam and fits under some tramp lashings. It all tucks nicely under the tiller bar which provides about one foot space between it and the rear beam when the rudders are down. When the rudders are up, there is less space but the tiller bar is higher and does not interfere with the motor. The electric motor I have bought has a head that is about 8" wide and will fit onto the 1 x 4. That way the motor will hang parallel to the back beam when not in use and swing down when needed. With the rudders up it goes about 10 kph on max, faster than walking speed. See attached pictures.

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Last edited by PJW on Thu Aug 31, 2017 9:55 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 29, 2017 1:46 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:02 pm
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Location: Rockford, IL
Here's my motor mount with a Home Depot fence rail for a cross brace. I shimmed it so the cross brace didn't interfere with the rudders.
Image

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks


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PostPosted: Mon Sep 04, 2017 4:14 pm 
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I am assembling Keith's motor mount for use with my Torqeedo 1003 on the Getaway. I guessed wrong on the hardware for the mount, and thought I'd add the list of bolts, nuts, and washers I finally ended up with to save somebody else a couple of trips back to the hardware store. All bolts, nuts, and washers are 5/16 inch diameter by 18 threads per inch. Dimensions listed below are length, except for the set screw.

3" hex head bolts (2) for attaching top plate to crossbar
2 1/2" hex head bolts (2) to hold top plate, main support, and bottom plate together
3/4" carriage bolts (4) to hold the side covers to the main support (2 each)*
3/4" carriage bolts (3) to hold the L-shaped parts to the main support (1 each)*
1" carriage bolts (4) to hold the wood motor bracket to the L-shaped parts (2 to the vertical L and 1 each to the horizontal Ls)
Acorn nuts (15)
Flat washers (30)
Split lock washers (15)
1/4" diameter X 1/2" long set screw to hold the bottom plate in the crossbar

Notes:
* Our local hardware stores here around Cleveland, Ohio do not carry stainless steel carriage bolts shorter than 1". I ordered the 3/4" bolts from BoltDepot.com.

I sail mostly in fresh water (Lake Erie), but I towed my boat to Chesapeake Bay once and may try other coastal locations after retiring. To be safe, I bought all stainless hardware

It looks like Keith only used flat washers in a few locations. I bought more because washers spread the loads, and lock washers slow down or stop loosening due to vibrations. Also, they are cheap. Use your own judgement on where and how many.

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Don
Strongsville (near Cleveland) OH
Lake Erie sailor, mostly
2011 Getaway "Happy Couple"


Last edited by dpalac on Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:25 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 05, 2017 8:49 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Thanks dpalac. Good luck with your new motor mount. Hope it works as well for you as it has so far (2 seasons) for me. I am adding your hardware count into my original post.

Keith

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 9:38 am 
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A public thanks to Keith! My mount is on, and I sailed with it just once so far in moderate Lake Erie chop. Sturdy and steady. It’s great to see the Torqeedo sitting nice and vertically up out of the water, with the prop just at the right depth to get a good dig into the water. It cavitated only once when a 4 foot wake came up under the stern, but dug right back in in less than a second. Thank you, thank you, thank you!

I had a Cheata mount previously on the port side, and I attempted to install Keith’s mount on the same side, but changed my mind when I fitted Keith’s mount onto the crossbar and saw that the holes for it would overlap the Cheata holes. So I moved Keith’s mount to the starboard size and plugged the Cheata holes in the crossbar with the epoxy putty. One of these days I’ll sand down the putty and paint - too busy sailing now.

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Strongsville (near Cleveland) OH
Lake Erie sailor, mostly
2011 Getaway "Happy Couple"


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 05, 2017 1:09 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 28, 2017 6:04 am
Posts: 85
Oh the wood mount idea attached to the tramp is great for the lighter electrics!
I like the earlier mount that the Honda is on as well, these are really good.
Any body have a mount for sale for the Honda level weight?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 9:35 am 
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I have a 3.5 hp tohotsu 4 stroke outboard from another sailboat. Looks like it is 41 pounds which seems to be too heavy for the cheata mount. (BTW Honda 2HP is about 30 lbs.) However, I found a used cheata mount for the getaway and have an idea to use it in conjunction with the new rear crossbar support that dorienc and wanderoo222 are using. By adding that extra support, maybe 41 pounds will work?
I see the u strap screwed into the plastic to anchor the new crossbar to each pontoon. How thick is that plastic? Any tips for screws to use here?


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 29, 2017 3:29 pm 
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Joined: Mon Dec 22, 2008 7:02 pm
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Location: Rockford, IL
Hey Jeff!
I had the Cheeta mount, but replaced it with the homebuilt mount; it holds the motor higher and you get less splashing than the Cheeta creates. It cost about $100 to make the homebuilt mount that Keith designed. But if you've already got the Cheeta mount, they do the job.
I used "toprail galvanized painted fence rail from home depot, with 2 conduit clamps. I used 1-1/2" sheet metal screws to hold the clamps down. Make sure to mount them with your rudders and tiller in place so the rudder arms don't interfere.
My Torqeedo weighs 29#, so with the crossbar you should be OK with the heavier motor. I put short sheet metal screws through the conduit clamps into the cross rail, because it shifted sideways.

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 2:00 pm 
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thanks Bob, I see those extra sheet metal screws now through the pipe and the clamp, I will add that detail as well, that's a great tip.

I wound up getting the chaeta in a package, maybe I paid 125 -150 for the chaeta itself, and I would probably procrastinate forever building the whole thing, so it seemed to be the way to go.
However, I think I can handle that new crosspiece, that is a great idea. I guess that will be my design then. And I will take your advice to put the rudders and all pieces in place before I finalize the locations.

Do you put any sealant in the holes when you install the 1 1/2" screws?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 30, 2017 4:38 pm 
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Location: Rockford, IL
No, I didn't seal the holes. I drilled pilot holes, and used self-tapping screws. I think any in-leakage will be trivial, particularly in that location. I pull the drains out at the end of every season, and so far, I've not gotten even a drop of water out of them.

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 31, 2017 5:07 am 
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looks very straight forward, thanks Bob!


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PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2017 7:34 pm 
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KeithB - hats off to you on a great motor design. I did a lot of research and decided to go with your approach as I didn't like how the cheetah mount is so low to the water, etc. However, I decided to build-off your design and, at least I think, I've come up with "Version 2.0" that takes up the functionality a few notches as well as improves the structural strength. Here are the main improvements:

1) I couldn't get over the piece that sticks into the cross bar. The torsional force on this load is high given the short distance from the fulcrum point (i'm not a physics expert but I intuitively sensed this) And since we have to drill the cross bar anyway, I put through bolts all the way and used a stacked sandwich of plates to get the spacing right.
2) I also specifically designed mine to minimize the length of the extension bar to also reduce torsional (rotational) force on the cross bar.
3) I am using the Torqeedo motor which hangs down a lot even when in the up mode. I liked the fact that the cheetah mount raised up as I often take out several adults and so the hulls are loaded down in the water. I didn't want the motor splashing and draggging, so I designed a hinge mechanism to raise the motor up.

BTW, I like the torqeedo as i mount just the motor and have a battery extension cable to keep both the tiller and the battery on the boat (further reducing weight from the motor mount and the forces on the cross bar).

I have more pictures and details I can post if people want it. Here's the setup (if this link works - this is my first post to any sort of message board ever):

Robert

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https://drive.google.com/open?id=17Qzc_KVCyGiNjd5JdB7Ij7eUp4_xEMhW


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 29, 2017 8:15 am 
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Robert-
Very nice job! Couple of thoughts come to mind:
1) Looks like you were able to shorten the distance while still maintaining clearance for the rudder bar, is that true? What is the new distance?
2)Where did you source the 1"x1" (I am guessing on size) bar and complementing bars? 80/20 as well?
3) What technique do you use to raise the motor on the water? Seems like it could be tough to pull pin, raise motor and replace pin on the water
4)Part list and more pictures would be awesome

On a different design....How would a motor mount work if it was just based upon the rear crossbar installed by wanderoo? Seems like it could support the weight no problem but you would have to prevent rotation somehow. That would prevent having to drill the main trampoline support.

Thanks for the new design.
-Dave


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