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PostPosted: Wed Jul 13, 2016 5:40 pm 
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Location: Rockford, IL
I completed Keith's design. It works great! Sailed yesterday and today, used the motor several times. It torques over a bit when turning in a tight circle under power, but only a little. No more splashing from the Cheata's plate, and it looks great too. I'll post a photo when I remember my photo account password.

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"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 15, 2016 1:14 pm 
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Location: Rockford, IL
Here's the finished motor mount! Thanks again, Keith! I owe you good beer!

On the boat. The straps hold my motor horizontally:
Image

With the motor:
Image

Compared to the Cheata mount (which is now for sale - look at the For Sale forum if you are interested):
Image

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker


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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 5:25 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
Glad it worked out. How do you anchor your main sheet now? Happy sailing.

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Used parts for sale. All original from 2002 Getaway. All showing their age but functional. Just pay shipping.
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2016 10:52 am 
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KeithB wrote:
Glad it worked out. How do you anchor your main sheet now? Happy sailing.

My Cheata was offset about 4" from center, and I put your design in the same place. So I use the installed eyelet for the sheet.

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"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 9:51 am 
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Joined: Sat Aug 13, 2016 8:19 am
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I am trying a different approach for an electric motor mount for my Hobie Getaway. I was determined not to drill any holes in the rear cross beam and not interfere with the sliding truck of the rear winch. I used a piece of 1x4 by eight foot six inch long wood to provide support and to counteract downward/forward thrust from the motor. The wood goes all the way to the front beam and fits under some tramp lashings. It all tucks nicely under the tiller bar which provides about one foot space between it and the rear beam when the rudders are down. When the rudders are up, there is less space but the tiller bar is higher and does not interfere with the motor. The electric motor I have bought has a head that is about 8" wide and will fit onto the 1 x 4. That way the motor will hang parallel to the back beam when not in use and swing down when needed. With the rudders up it goes about 10 kph on max, faster than walking speed. See attached pictures.

Image

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Image

Image

Image[/quote]


Last edited by PJW on Thu Aug 31, 2017 10:00 am, edited 16 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 22, 2016 6:51 pm 
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As a Cheetah Motor mount and (former) Honda 2hp owner I can say this design appears to have a few significant advantages. 1) This newer design allows the motor to sit a few (critical) inches higher on the water. It's easy to bury the honda when folks are sitting on the back of the boat and/or bow wake teaters the boat up and down. 2). This new design doesnt have a casting hanging below the crossbar like the cheetah, which tends to direct water into the motor casing during splashes. I wish this new design was around before we ruined our honda with too much salt water intrusion. The motor was simply too low to the waterline for a gas power outboard. Now we own a Torqueedo 1005 Travel which is water proof and it always starts with the turn of the throttle. It totally changed our on the water experience around marinas.

Great job on the new design!

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Hobie Getaway 2012
300 Mile Everglades Challenge '12, '13, '14, '15, '16, '17


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 25, 2016 7:36 am 
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Thanks for the comments. Here is a picture of the motor I have bought. It is a Shakespeare 32lb thrust motor that takes a Greenworks lithium battery that can be inserted into the top of the motor. I guess like the Torqueedo but cheaper, around $380. Battery lasts between half to one hour depending on setting, charges in an hour or so.


Image

Image


Last edited by PJW on Thu Aug 31, 2017 10:03 am, edited 5 times in total.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 12, 2016 12:42 pm 
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KiethB, I like your design and have ordered the parts. I am concerned about the stress all the motor mount designs put on the rear crossbar though. I am considering adding an additional crossbar between the hulls that the motor mount arm would bolt to. The crossbar would just rest on the hulls in some fashion. What are opinions about this. The outboard I have weighs 37 lbs.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 8:42 am 
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Location: Benicia, CA
ClamCounter wrote:
As a Cheetah Motor mount and (former) Honda 2hp owner I can say this design appears to have a few significant advantages. 1) This newer design allows the motor to sit a few (critical) inches higher on the water. It's easy to bury the honda when folks are sitting on the back of the boat and/or bow wake teaters the boat up and down. 2). This new design doesnt have a casting hanging below the crossbar like the cheetah, which tends to direct water into the motor casing during splashes. I wish this new design was around before we ruined our honda with too much salt water intrusion. The motor was simply too low to the waterline for a gas power outboard. Now we own a Torqueedo 1005 Travel which is water proof and it always starts with the turn of the throttle. It totally changed our on the water experience around marinas.

Great job on the new design!


While I couldn't do anything with item 2)-I fixed item 1) by replacing the CHeata mounting board with a board that rises above the metal by 4". Now the motor is always out of the water-even with two bodies sitting aft while motoring. So, my Honda gets splashed still by the Cheeta splash plate, but I haven't had any starting problems because of the hosing the motor gets. I like the Cheeta still because I can leave the motor attached and use the articulating arm to hoist the motor weight off the rear crossbar using my aft mast support for trailering and storage.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 13, 2016 9:07 am 
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[quote="PJW"]Thanks for the comments. Here are some pictures of the motor I am thinking of buying. It is a Shakespeare 32lb thrust motor that takes a Greenworks lithium battery that can be inserted into the top of the motor. I guess like the Torqueedo but cheaper, around $380. Battery lasts between half to one hour depending on setting.

[quote]
Where are you planning on getting it? The Shakespeare site says it is available at Amazon, but Amazon says it doesn't have any and doesn't know whether or not it can get any. BTW, 32 lb thrust with a 400 pound boat plus 400 pounds of people will move the boat, but not in a seaway or against much of a current or against much wind. There's no direct correlation between lbs thrust and horsepower, but 32 lbs will probably push the boat about the same speed as you could paddle it with 2 people.

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Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 6:39 am 
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Location: Cheshire, CT USA
wanderoo222 wrote:
KiethB, I like your design and have ordered the parts. I am concerned about the stress all the motor mount designs put on the rear crossbar though. I am considering adding an additional crossbar between the hulls that the motor mount arm would bolt to. The crossbar would just rest on the hulls in some fashion. What are opinions about this. The outboard I have weighs 37 lbs.


Wanderoo222 - I was concerned about the leveraged torque on the rear crossbar as well but then my motor is only 27lbs. That said, I've had a motor mounted back there while sailing for 7 seasons so far without issue. Of course, I do not trailer the boat with the motor mounted to the crossbar. Someone on here had used an old boom to make a secondary rear cross bar that bolted up on the ends to some brackets that bolted to the rudder pindle mounting point and the motor was attached directly to the boom crossbar. I suppose you could fashion a secondary rear crossbar using the 80/20 aluminum. But you mention just resting it on the hulls - wouldn't it tend to fall off if not attached. You could use the new crossbar to support the weight of the motor but you'd definitely want some bracket to keep the ends of the new crossbar stationary on the hulls. Another concern would be the potential for more splashing as waves hit it but maybe not as it may be high enough. Interested to see what you come up with.

Keith

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2002 Getaway
"Cheshire Cat"


Used parts for sale. All original from 2002 Getaway. All showing their age but functional. Just pay shipping.
- Main and jib ---- SOLD.
- Main trampoline
- Wing seat covers
- shrouds


Last edited by KeithB on Mon Nov 14, 2016 6:45 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 6:42 am 
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tpdavis473 wrote:
There's no direct correlation between lbs thrust and horsepower


I've read a rough rule of thumb is 1hp = 75 ft.lb thrust

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2002 Getaway
"Cheshire Cat"


Used parts for sale. All original from 2002 Getaway. All showing their age but functional. Just pay shipping.
- Main and jib ---- SOLD.
- Main trampoline
- Wing seat covers
- shrouds


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 14, 2016 9:47 am 
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Location: Benicia, CA
That thumb rule is probably close enough for our purposes. Of course, so much depends on what you are pushing through the water; that's why the video I posted showed what 55 lbs thrust compares to 3.5 hp motor on identical boats in identical conditions. Those folks say that 55 lbs is less than one hp; so it is a similar thumb rule. A Getaway moves through the water easily except in a seaway or against the wind (lots of windage, even with sails down); so that 32 lb Shakespeare would move the boat in a protected harbor or if becalmed on a flat sea...it'd not be very useful trying to go against much current or against much breeze or in a seaway. That being said, the Torqeedo I had briefly DID move the Getaway about as well as the current Honda 2.3 I have now. I had the Torqeedo 1003 which they rate at 3 hp--the reason that they CAN rate it in hp is because it actually has a shaft (gas outboards are rated by shaft hp).

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 5:40 am 
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It looks nice. One question: why is it so far to the stern. it seems there would be less stress if it were closer to the crossbar.


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PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:18 am 
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It needs to be so far back to clear the rudder crossbar. When turning the rudders, the crossbar moves aft. Also when the motor is tilted up, the head leans forward which is the position while under sail. I know it looks really far back, more than it needs to be but trust me, when it's tilted up out of the water and the rudders are turned, there's only about an inch clearance between the motor head and the rudder crossbar. I'd take some pictures to show you but the boat is currently dismantled and covered for the winter.

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2002 Getaway
"Cheshire Cat"


Used parts for sale. All original from 2002 Getaway. All showing their age but functional. Just pay shipping.
- Main and jib ---- SOLD.
- Main trampoline
- Wing seat covers
- shrouds


Top
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