Getaway Spinnaker

So I finally decided on the color I want. I definitely did not want white. I debated on the red for a while but in the end chose the blue. Waiting now for the hardware kits to arrive from France in 4-6 weeks and then I can pick up the whole kit from my local dealer. Hopefully I will have it sometime in March so that in April I can start de-winterizing the boat and installing the spin kit. Can anyone recommend a good riveting tool? I've read the rivets are quite substantial and require a lot of force to install.

Keith

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

I can tell you this, the best riveting tool available at home depot is not good enough. There are like 20+ stainless steel rivets and they are tough buggers. Not like aluminum rivets at all. I got about 10 or so done and my hands gave out. I called a friend over to do the last few. Honestly If I did it again I would buy a good air rivet gun. Totally worth it.

Thanks. I found one on amazon for $28. Not pneumatic, it's manual but says it can easily do steel rivets up to 1/4". Good reviews too. Think this will do it? Assuming the one you had was much smaller, more like a staple gun size?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0039697ME/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=VJJOGY6TFX1I&coliid=I2WRVNJOGDBFKD

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Keith, I would love to see your step by step install of the spinnaker kit. I hope it's mot asking a lot. I plan to purchase the same kit and install it myself. I sure others would benefit. Your motor mount design was great. Thanks.

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2016 Hobie Getaway
1978 Nacra 5.2

I have Ottawadave's instructions. I send them to you via email.

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

So I don't have the spinnaker yet but was thinking about use and storage/maintenance.

First off, how to use it: I've read a lot and it seems everyone talks about gybing. Is it best to gybe with a spin when tacking as opposed to a normal tack into the wind?

Second, I normally hose down the boat after a day out on the salt water. The sails don't normally get hosed down as they stay pretty dry unless the boat gets flipped. So the main and jib are just rolled up and stored in their socks. However, I can envision the spinnaker getting pretty wet while it is in the sock on the front tramp. Is it a good idea to haul it out for a few minutes while on the trailer before lowering the mast so that it can dry before stowing for a week or so at a time. I'm thinking it could stay pretty wet if kept in the sock wet and might cause mold/rot etc...

Also, as far as rigging and de-rigging for trailering, I assume the spin pole bridles and attachment to the jib furler have to be disconnected and the spin pole detached from the center crossbar when de-rigging. If the pole and sock are tied down on the tramp, can the rest of the rigging for the spin be left rigged (sheets, halyard/tack, etc...) when lowering the mast?

Lastly, pre-bend: How hard is it to get the pre-bend in the spin pole when rigging on a trailer? I imaging the pole is connected to the center crossbar first, then to the bridles below the furler. But how do you get pre-bend while attaching the spin pole bridles? How does one accomplish pre-bend solo? I'm thinking to use the main sheet and block and anchor it to the trailer tongue, then tighten down and attach the spin pole bridles. How does everyone else do it?

Just thinking logistically how to handle the boat with the new setup for this summer.

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

I'll just address this item. Yes, the spin gets very wet on the front tramp. However, Nylon doesn't easily degrade with mold/rot. No need to hose down or dry before stowing as long as the sock drains so it will dry eventually. DO look at the grommets or straps, though to see what materials they are...some cheap spins are made with grommets or straps that will corrode/rot. That being said, though, it is "fun" to hoist the spin briefly and resnuff (is that a word) to get rid of a lot of the wet prior to putting away the toy (do this when the wind is light, behind you and NOT while the boat is on the trailer).

BTW, I don't bother with the socks/bags for the main/jib, but I do cover the whole boat with a 20x30 tarp in storage--you are only trying to keep sunlight away...saves a few minutes. Also, flaking the mainsail makes hoisting easier than rolling since there's no boom. Just some tricks I've found to make it quicker to get into and out of the water.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II

Thanks for the advice and tips. Go to know I don't have to worry about the nylon being wet but will still try to dry as much as possible before storage. I did not keep the boat covered for the first 6 years but the tramp was already 7 years old and showing it's age when I bought the boat. Last year I bought new tramp and wing seat covers so I tarped it when not in use. This spring, I will be erecting a portable garage to store the boat in when not in use. Trying to protect my "investments".

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Looks fantastic!

Keith B

"First off, how to use it: I've read a lot and it seems everyone talks about gybing. Is it best to gybe with a spin when tacking as opposed to a normal tack into the wind? "
It would be very unusual to tack using a spin - they are meant to be used off the wind.

Do a search under spinnakers on the H18 Forum, many good folks have contributed.

In light air, you can broad reach or run and go faster.
In medium you can zoom,
and in heavy air you can fly.....however, be prepared for a pitchpole, don't ask how I know.
Please post news of your progress.

Minus 17C here yesterday, many more months before we can sail again.....

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2015 H16, with spin,
SOLD 1989 Hobie SX18 Sail # 1947 "In Theory..."
'Only two things are infinite, the universe, and human stupidity. But I'm not sure about the former.'

Can anyone else comment on my trailering and pre-bend questions?

Thanks

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

So I've only taken to the lake a few times since I got the spinnaker. The spinnaker adds significant time to the set up of the boat. I normally rig the boat, trailer to water, in 20 min. The spinnaker adds at least another 20, ug.

I had been experimenting with leaving all of the rigging attached to the mast, including the jib and stays ans spinnaker halyard. To accomplish this I simply disconnect the spinnaker pole, slide it back and bungee it to the tramp. It ends up being a mess, but it works.

As far as pre-bend goes, use a truckers hitch so you can adjust the tightness easily.

On the subject of pre-bend, wondering if I could use a turnbuckle to loosen and tighten the spin pole bridles?

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"

Personally, I always take the whole rig down when I trailer. This results in me not using the spinnaker as much as I'd like to, because it takes so long to rig it. I rig it all up on the trailer except the outer half of the pole (because it hits my car when the boat's on the trailer), launch it and finish rigging it.

As kevinbatchelor said "I had been experimenting with leaving all of the rigging attached to the mast, including the jib and stays ans spinnaker halyard. To accomplish this I simply disconnect the spinnaker pole, slide it back and bungee it to the tramp. It ends up being a mess, but it works. " I think I'll try that, this year. Part of my problem is that I have to trailer the boat 90 minutes on the highway to where I sail, so I try to get everything out of the wind blast to protect it. Maybe I can bungee the heck out of the snuffer.

To pre-bend the sprit, I wrap the cord twice around the sprit, then tie the ends with clove hitches to the opposite side of the furler, onto the crimped on clevises from the bridles. This holds the sprit up securely without stressing the bridles too badly. Then I tie the cords from the end of the sprit to the crossbar, running it between the crossbar and the eyelet of the wire from the crossbar twice to give me a mechanical advantage. It's best if there are two of us, so we can preload both sides simultaneously and evenly. I suppose you could use turnbuckles, but that seems unnecessarily complicated.

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks

I also travel about 75 miles to where I sail. Always left the rigging attached to the mast except the furler gets disconnected from the bridles to lower the mast. Everything else stays attached and just bungeed down on the tramps. Guessing I'll need a few more bungees for the spin gear/lines. Wondering if the spin pole can be rigged/derigged while on the trailer or if the spin pole and trailer mast stand (or tow vehicle) will interfere with each other. Seems like it would interfere but then obtaining pre-bend while rigging the pole with the boat in the water seems difficult at best. Must be able to do it on the trailer somehow.

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2002 Getaway - SOLD in 2018 "Cheshire Cat"
2016 AI - Bought used 3.18.23 "Crabby Puppy"