Mainsheet block system on Getaway

What's the ratio on the stock Getaway mainsheet system? 5:1?
I find it takes a lot more effort to hold against a strong wind with my Getaway than it did with my Hobie 17. I don't know what the ratio of that system was, or if it's just that I'm 20 years older...
If I went up to an 8:1 or even 10:1 system, would I be in danger of overpowering the mast and sail, i.e., since the sail is boomless, might I damage it?

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks

I don't think you'll damage anything, as usually you should be able to pull it in block-to-block (I do it in mine if the conditions are correct), and you can't go any further anyways.
However, having 8:1 or 10:1 makes it that the sail can get stuck and not release easily, making the boat too capsize prone in my opinion.
I use a 6:1 system and I found out it works prefectly even with 20-25 knots of wind (much better than the 5:1). For that I use the original system with an additional block on the top and tiedown in the bottom (with thin lines around the center block). I used the eyehook on top of the cleat but it did break do I don't reccomend using it. Of course it is much better if you buy new blocks that are made exactly for the 6:1 system.

zavala I have the same problem. Could you post a pic or diagram of the main block 6:1 system?

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2016 Hobie Getaway
1978 Nacra 5.2

found a pic online. I love the internet!

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2016 Hobie Getaway
1978 Nacra 5.2

Unfortunately I wont have access to my boat for about a month. I al glad you found a pic online; you can put it here and I can see if it is similar to what I have. As I said I just used a spare block tied to the top (where the ned of the mainsheet usually ties) and used thin lines to tie to the bottom.

I'm OK with the stock 5:1 system except that I don't like the camcleat that faces down so you have to pull and push down to release which is one more thing that takes longer than it could.

Adding power to the system means adding more line, as well for more line floating around on the boat. To each his/her own. As flexible as our mast is, I think adding more power will just bend the mast more than optimum-sure it flattens the sail and reduces camber, but there is a limit to how much stretch is in that dacron...could end up buying a new mainsail sooner than expected.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of, that I might damage the sail over time pulling it too tightly under load. My H-17s were the boomed version, but this boomless mainsail worries me about too much localized stress.
Have you adjusted your cam? I tilted mine up a bit so I have to make a conscious effort (and maybe stand up) to lock it, but can unlock it easily from any position, especially the "OH SHOOT" position!

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks

No, I haven't tilted it...didn't even know it could be adjusted...thanks for the tip. I wish I could turn it upside down so I could pop it up like I can the traveler. I actually use the traveler more for that reason, it's quicker for gust relief.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II

Just checked (really nice having the boat 20 steps away), the jaws holding the mainsheet base can be loosened with two hex screws...but one side is kept from rotating by the ratchet switch. I went further and nearly disassembled it completely, but each side is also held by two dowels that fit into stubs on the body. I could probably rotate it if I worked at it by drilling a slot for the ratchet switch and relocating the dowels into different stubs...but I don't think I'd get enough difference to make it worthwhile. I've had 2 seasons, now, with it this way and no flips due to slow mainsheet release...so far, so good; leave well enough alone, don't fix it if it ain't broke, how many other platitudes can I find that mean do nothing.

My old boat had the Harken hexaratchet system with a metal clamp that allowed reorienting the cleat very easily...not so with this ratchet block.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II

Dorienc... you may have already tried this but there is also a red lever on the side of the mainsheet block. Toggling this can turn on the ratchet which pays out a lot easier in heavy conditions.

I've also considered upgrading the main sheet system until I discovered the ratchet. But I was also worried a stronger main sheet would cause the bridle wires and forestay to wear faster.

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ClamCounter
Hobie Getaway 2012 “Miss Marie”
300 Mile Everglades Challenge '12, '13, '14, '15, '16, '17, ‘18, ‘19, ‘20

I think the three of us have different bases...for example, my lever isn't red, it is black. I expect Dorienc has a third version that makes it possible to rotate the base. Harken keeps changing stuff and Hobie buys what they need for boats when they need it. Inevitable that the running rigging will be a little different year to year.

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R/Thom
SeaRail 19
Triak
BMW C600
Formerly Getaway with Custom Spinnakers
Formerly raced F24 Mk II

Hey! I never saw that little lever! I stopped by the boat today (It's in a storage garage. It was snowing out. Boo.) and looked at the main block. I turned on the ratchet.
And now, Thom, I'm second guessing myself. I adjusted the blocks on my Hobie 17s and the Thistle I had, but maybe I never adjusted the Getaway block. After hearing about your attempts, I'll have to mark mine (because I like where it's at) and see if it does adjust. It looks like it does.

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Yet another Bob!
"Firefly" - 2012 Hobie Getaway with wings and spinnaker
"Sparky" - 1978 Sunfish (OK, it's not a Hobie, but it's a fun little craft)
Too many canoes and kayaks