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Wire halyard vs rope halyard
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Author:  gmozavala [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 9:44 am ]
Post subject:  Wire halyard vs rope halyard

Every 2 or 3 years my getaway (2009) halyard breaks at the wire- rope joint (wire rusts regardless at the joint and then breaks). Does this happen to many people? I was wondering if there would be a problem to use the old style hobie 16 halyard (the one that is half wire) with the comp tip? I also have a friend who has a H-16 with comp tip and has the same question, because he had an old H16 with the old halyard and had no problems with it.


Guillermo Zavala

Author:  tpdavis473 [ Sat Apr 15, 2017 10:18 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Wire halyard vs rope halyard$60

I rinse my halyard joint after each sail, but it will happen again eventually since the join is made with dissimilar metals so you'll get galvanic corrosion eventually. But, for $60 or so, you can keep a spare. Pretty cheap, really.

You "can" replace the wire join with a small diameter high tech line join which won't corrode. You can also tie a knot in the high tech line at the right spot to catch the hook--best to put a stopper on top of the knot. I think an empty brass shell casing would work-especially if you crimped it over the knot. I have done this and it is my spare...I didn't have a shell casing, so I used a small washer, but the washer moves out of place which is less than ideal.

Author:  mmiller [ Mon Apr 17, 2017 8:24 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Wire halyard vs rope halyard

Wire conducts electricity, so not recommended.

Author:  lewleib [ Mon Apr 02, 2018 7:55 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Wire halyard vs rope halyard

I have had the same problem with my Getaway on the beach in Mexico. The 2nd halyard in 7 years almost failed today.

How can I repair it if I can't receive a new part? Can TPDavis explain his solution in more detail?
What is high tech line? How do you join the line to the existing cable? A knot? Would a split shot weight substitute for a shell casing?

Matt: I believe the standard halyard that keeps failing is wire. As TPDavis points out the point of failure is where the cable passes through the copper cap.

Author:  tpdavis473 [ Mon Apr 02, 2018 8:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Wire halyard vs rope halyard

High tech line is dyneema or some similar non stretch line. 4mm is plenty thick for a Getaway halyard. Less than a dollar a foot so about the same cost as buying a new replacement halyard from Hobie-but will probably last forever. Split shot would probably work just as well as the drilled casing-didn't think of that and even easier, just squeeze the shot above the stopper knot.

http://www.apsltd.com/samson-ropes-amst ... -line.html

BTW, if your wire shrouds fail or you just want to replace them, this same line is stronger than the steel Learn how to make a brummel splice (takes about 10 minutes) and you will never buy stainless wire again. Truly, there is nothing wrong with Hobie-tech, it is just OLD TECH compared with what is available today.

Author:  mmiller [ Tue Apr 03, 2018 8:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Wire halyard vs rope halyard

I would not use an all rope halyard of any kind. Rope can / will stretch and allow the head to slip lower and possibly peel out of the track. The stock wire locks the head of the sail into the track. A rope would also transmit compression loads down the mast causing more mast bend.

Author:  srm [ Tue Apr 03, 2018 9:06 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Wire halyard vs rope halyard

How about removing the fork at the top of the mast and making a little adapter plate that would allow you to mount a cam cleat or spinlock cleat in place of the fork? This would let you to use a 100% rope halyard and still have the halyard be secured at the top of the mast (eliminating halyard stretch and mast compression issues). Just a thought.


Author:  mmiller [ Tue Apr 03, 2018 10:32 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Wire halyard vs rope halyard

Seems like a great idea!

Author:  tpdavis473 [ Tue Apr 03, 2018 11:10 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Wire halyard vs rope halyard

spinlock up there is a good idea, but dunno if you can release a spinlock from that far away. I'd try on land and no sail first. My SeaRail has a different method. It uses a pigtail off the back of the mast and uses a 2:1 halyard. It also reduces the mast compression load by a third or so, but my new mast has stays (I think it is the same mast as a Tiger).

BTW, Matt, we were talking about continuing to use the hook even with all tech line...that is the reason for the stopper knot and the split shot to catch the hook. The dyneema line doesn't stretch, but I do understand the purpose of the hook at the top, since the mast is unstayed, it not only halves the compression load, it loads it in the direction you want it to bend. Works well and was a good design back then. Still works OK, just could be upgraded to better with a little mental lube. The original thread is about the lack of robustness for halyard longevity due in part to the dissimilar metals used at the wire to rope splice. Wire to rope splices are 1980s tech and better is available. Even though a replacement halyard is pretty cheap at $60, if one breaks while on vacation after hauling the boat 400 miles, it just sucks rocks.

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